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cockpit panels
Posted: Apr 3rd, '19, 08:27
by QUOTA2
Good Morning all, thinking of replacing my cockpit panels on my 28 question I have is how are the cleats attached at the transom?. Self tapping into wood support or thru bolted?...TY
Re: cockpit panels
Posted: Apr 3rd, '19, 08:45
by Yannis
Hang in there, I’ll post some pics of my redo as soon as I find them. Note that the way the stock cleats were mounted were from flimsy to dangerous...
Re: cockpit panels
Posted: Apr 3rd, '19, 09:23
by QUOTA2
Thank You appreciate it
Re: cockpit panels
Posted: Apr 3rd, '19, 10:08
by Yannis
Quota2,
As you will see, I removed all side panels as they were completely useless to me. On the sides I created space for broom, flippers, speargun, hook stick etc.
All gunnels are supported by teak slats that are bonded onto aluminum T's.
The T's, approx. 5cm wide X 10cm tall, two behind each teak piece, are first glassed onto boat side or aft, then teak rear surface is slotted and then T inserted into wood and glued in. The whole assy is further glassed onto boat, with care so it doesn't show. As we could not adjust the top part of teak exactly under boat gunnel while simultaneously fitting it onto the T's, we left 2 cm of empty space (headroom) between teak top and gunnel. Then one or two smaller wood pieces were positioned flush under the gunnel, glued and bolted on teak sides, not on top, still invisible as they are under the lip. Teak pieces on the sides bear holes to fit longer objects.
The cleat angle of 45 deg. is necessary to ease tying and untying, so that the process of tying does not meddle with the vertical incoming part of the rope. Description of cleat mounting appears as photo title.
Good luck.
https://imgur.com/a/a3ZfpdN
Re: cockpit panels
Posted: Apr 3rd, '19, 10:24
by QUOTA2
Thanks again, I was trying to figure out how to take the cleats off and don't know if they are screwed in with self tappers or bolted in do happen to remember?. I will probably reinstall them the way they come out.
Re: cockpit panels
Posted: Apr 3rd, '19, 10:35
by Yannis
It’s been a long time now, but if I can recall correctly, you first unscrew the cleats that also help support the panel into place.
Behind there you should find some shitty pieces of plywood that the cleat bolts (or screws) tie onto. I cannot remember how those ply pieces are bonded onto the stern , but definitely the cleats do not tie or are bolted directly onto the stern.
Re: cockpit panels
Posted: Apr 3rd, '19, 20:44
by Tony Meola
The cleats are lagged bolted in to a wood frame. Check the frame, you can beef it up. I know my cleats are pretty strong. From what I can see they are not going anyplace soon under normal situations. Just don't try and tow the Queen Mary.
Re: cockpit panels
Posted: Apr 4th, '19, 15:06
by QUOTA2
Thanks Tony ,going to Home Depot to check out FRB panels supposed to be a fiberglass and durable don't know if anyone has used them I heard Azek in the past.
Re: cockpit panels
Posted: Apr 4th, '19, 16:25
by kross1
I have an 83 and behind the wood blocks there is an aluminum plate with screw threads in it. The plate is thin so you have to whatch not to strip them. Ask me how I know!!
https://imgur.com/a/D4gf08B
Re: cockpit panels
Posted: Apr 4th, '19, 21:27
by Tooeez
On my 79 there are solid mahogany blocks glassed to the transom, and the cleats are screwed through the panels with large self-tapping screws--very sturdy. I replaced my panels with 1/4 starboard.
Re: cockpit panels
Posted: Apr 4th, '19, 21:54
by bilgebum
Hi i used versa board that patrick suggested and i love it it,'s in the cockpit for 5 or 6 years and still looks beautiful, it is light.,1/2 the price you can paint it, does not expand or shrink, doesn,t yellow cleans easily
Re: cockpit panels
Posted: Apr 5th, '19, 00:00
by Yannis
What Kross1 shows, is very similar to what I've made, albeit this cleat support is placed on the stern while mine is glassed at the corner. This version I've never seen before.
As I have also never seen the glassed mahogany blocks that Tooeez suggests.
Mine didn't have any of these two. So, if someone is to do it again, they can improvise like most of us (or someone before us) already did.
Re: cockpit panels
Posted: Apr 5th, '19, 08:30
by QUOTA2
Thanks for all the feedback, Bilgebum where did you buy the Versa Board?.
Re: cockpit panels
Posted: Apr 5th, '19, 21:00
by Tony Meola
kross1 wrote:I have an 83 and behind the wood blocks there is an aluminum plate with screw threads in it. The plate is thin so you have to whatch not to strip them. Ask me how I know!!
https://imgur.com/a/D4gf08B
That aluminum plate is not original. If I was putting a plate behind it I would of gone with stainless and I think you need at least 3/8" to get a good thread bite. Personally if I went with Stainless, I would have it threaded but would also think about having trying ot have a nut welded to it for extra security.
Re: cockpit panels
Posted: Apr 10th, '19, 09:17
by QUOTA2
Not having much luck with finding a replacement board for the cockpit panels in NJ, what thickness have you guys used ?. Every option I looked at has been to thick.
Re: cockpit panels
Posted: Apr 10th, '19, 09:39
by Joseph Fikentscher
I used AZEK sheet. I think 1/4 inch., Maybe 3/8. About $90/sheet 4x8.
Re: cockpit panels
Posted: Apr 10th, '19, 16:19
by QUOTA2
Joe, where were you able to order the Azek?. I tried Home Depot.
Re: cockpit panels
Posted: Apr 10th, '19, 16:32
by Joseph Fikentscher
I used Jaeger Lumber in Belmar, NJ.
Re: cockpit panels
Posted: Apr 10th, '19, 21:09
by Tony Meola
QUOTA2 wrote:Not having much luck with finding a replacement board for the cockpit panels in NJ, what thickness have you guys used ?. Every option I looked at has been to thick.
Dockside Lumber in Barnegat can order you a 4x10 ft sheet of 3/8 AZEK or one of their competitors. They have the 4x8 in stock.
https://docksidemarinesupply.com/
No matter which manufacturer you purchase, the thinnest you can get is 3/8. I have also seen 4x8 AZEK in 3/8 in Home Depot.
Re: cockpit panels
Posted: Sep 8th, '20, 21:26
by Yannis
Yannis wrote:Quota2,
As you will see, I removed all side panels as they were completely useless to me. On the sides I created space for broom, flippers, speargun, hook stick etc.
All gunnels are supported by teak slats that are bonded onto aluminum T's.
The T's, approx. 5cm wide X 10cm tall, two behind each teak piece, are first glassed onto boat side or aft, then teak rear surface is slotted and then T inserted into wood and glued in. The whole assy is further glassed onto boat, with care so it doesn't show. As we could not adjust the top part of teak exactly under boat gunnel while simultaneously fitting it onto the T's, we left 2 cm of empty space (headroom) between teak top and gunnel. Then one or two smaller wood pieces were positioned flush under the gunnel, glued and bolted on teak sides, not on top, still invisible as they are under the lip. Teak pieces on the sides bear holes to fit longer objects.
The cleat angle of 45 deg. is necessary to ease tying and untying, so that the process of tying does not meddle with the vertical incoming part of the rope. Description of cleat mounting appears as photo title.
Good luck.
https://imgur.com/a/a3ZfpdN