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As I start to go through my boat I have run into a few bits of rotten wood (so far nothing structural) that I need to replace. One example is short a 1x2" strip which supports the deck panels and step between the two engines forward of the strainers. Is stuff like this normally common pine or something else? The piece on the other side does not feel hard enough to be white oak.

Thanks,

I had oak uprights with mahogany upper supports. The oak on some of them was so rotted it seemed like balsa wood.

Yes, it is common...or was as many replaced. You can replace with wood or what alot/some of us did...Fiberglass U-channel and angle. Bolt and glass into place.

Back rudder shelf wood rots out.


Bulkheads are pretty common to rot as well. Good thing though...in our boats they are not really structural. Cut'em out and install new.

Peter

I used fiberglass angle 3/8 inch thick to rebuild the section in the companion way. it is pretty solid. Does not even flex with a big person standing there. This section holds water so if you go with wood, make sure you coat it well with glass to keep it from rotting again.

Capt pat had a post on this he used 1in and 2in fiberglass box tube creating a 1in lip for the deck. That was my plan I bought it from mcmastercarr.http://www.bertram31.com/newbb/viewtopic.php?t=4504

I recently replaced the strip of wood under the door supporting the floor between the engines and the salon.
Did it with Azek. If you need piece I could ship it to you. I had to purchase a piece of trim that was 40' long or something like that.
It's a PVC type plastic I believe. Won't rot.

Mahogany decking ripped to size on a table saw always worked great for my boat. I would use short pieces of fiberglass angles cut and drilled for 1/4" bolts to hold it all together.

I got some 1/4” thick fiberglass angle from McMasterCarr. This stuff is HEAVY and dense. What’s the best way to cut it? Can I drill holes into n it with regular drills?

I have cut it in a chop saw and Also use a cut off wheel on a 4in grinder both work well. I used that to build a door frame in my new bulked. Check it with a straight edge it dose have some deflection to it.

FYI... I used a chop saw and a new blade. GO slow, wear gloves.. if it bites it will pull the stock right out of your hand.

My fingers itch just thinking about all the fiberglass I cut in chop saws.

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You can cut fiberglass with regular tooling.

The material is abrasive and wears the edges fairly quick...so if drilling keep rpms down,
when using chop saw, cut and don't let blade just sit in the cut wearing out.

Hand held hack saw works pretty good too.

I wonder if a metal cutting carbide blade in the chopsaw would last longer?

Rawleigh wrote:I wonder if a metal cutting carbide blade in the chopsaw would last longer?

Yes it wood (pun intended)

But unless you have one I'm not sure the expense of a good carbide blade is worth it for a few cuts.

I mentioned as the first bunch of holes and cuts go easy..then tools dull, starts heating up more, so start pushing harder, tool dulls more, heats up more, dulls more, push harder and job becomes more of a job.
Point is, if you can't sharpen...have a backup or two on hand. Really its only a handful of cuts and a few holes for a deck, I'm making more out of it then needed.