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What is the procedure for greasing this type of seacock? It looks like it has a ball valve instead the traditional tapered plug. It's not frozen and does not leak (and I want to keep it that way).

http://www.ipernity.com/doc/307687/47654436


Thanks,

Looking at another picture I took in that same area, I see that I need to replace the hose which runs from the seacock to the strainer. Where is the best place to get hoses and proper clamps.

http://www.ipernity.com/doc/307687/47655144

Thanks,

Peter

That is a ball valve and normally rides on Teflon and should not need lubrication. I find that they do need to be worked a few times a year. I always open and close them at lay up for the winter and then again in the spring at a minimum. Those look like they need to be cleaned up a bit. I have used vinegar as well as CLR (Calcium lime remover).

Cleaning them up will help you find future leaks.

As for the hoses, you can get them from any marine supply store or the yard where the boat is kept. While I know I can get things cheaper by shopping around, since I do my own work for spring launch and winterization I try and purchase some items from the yard. A short length of hose, my zincs things like that, so use your best judgement.


I find West Marine is not that cheap, but I am lucky enough toalso have access to local smaller marine supply shop that has pretty decent prices. So shop around.

Is this the right kind of hose? (I still need to measure to get the right diameter.)

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/u ... do?pid=578

As I replace things like this I plan to use new marine grade hose clamps. Is there any advantage to using the t-bolt type which Jamestown is featuring?

Thanks,

Peter

That is the hose.

T clamps usually can be tightened a little more than worm screw clamps. I have had them break. In fact I had one break on my turbo hose. Scarred the hell out of me. Thought I blew a turbo.

Make sure you double clamp all hoses especially those attached to thru hull fittings. In actuality T clamps are probably a little over kill. If you crank them too tight you could cause other issues.


There is an old saying around here you will learn to understand as you go along. Just remember "The enemy of good is better".

well for what its worth i would pull the hoses off now and then
closed the 1/4 turn handle closed and spray corrosion x in side
and work the handle back and forth, also spray the handle
of course this was at dry dock when winterizing

Instead of store bought rust preventatives likeWD40, make a mix of 1qt Acetone and 1 1qt ATF ( transmission fluid). Use an old mustard bottle with a nipple to store some on your work bench, the rest goes into a clean gal container.
The mix is far superior to any store bought stuff and about 2/3rds less cost.

Mine were also very stiff so I reached inside and dabbed a bit of marine lube grease on the closed sea cock, then worked it back and forth which made a big difference. Also, be sure to leave your sea cocks in 100% full open (or closed) position or they can develop a build up on the exposed edge making it difficult to get them fully open or closed.

Peter S,
Looks like there is a 1/4" plug on the side of the sea cock body. That plug should take a Zerk grease fitting allowing you to use a grease gun to lube the inner workings of the sea cock. It looks like your bonding wire needs to be connected to the base of the bronze sea cock not under the nut that holds the stainless steel handle the way it is now, working the handle will eventually break the bonding wire connection off. Also the sea cock and hose needs to be cleaned up and the clamp and hose should be replaced if the hose is starting to show signs of cracking or rot. There is usually a threaded screw that the bonding wire lug should attached to on the bronze base, if no screw ispresent, use a tap to allow a #8 threaded screw to be used.
Pete Fallon

Pete,

I have SS seacocks that I cannot seem to be able to move the handle.
There is no grease hole either.
What can a man do?
Thanks.

Pete Fallon,
Good information, thank you. Can I assume that the zerk fitting would only be placed in the seacock temporarily for the input of grease? The plug would go back in after the grease has been injected, correct?
My seacocks have the plug fitting currently.

I also read somewhere online that a certain type of grease is recommended for these, very low friction etc, etc.
Spartan Seacock Grease is recommended on many other forums. I have not used it, but here's a link.

https://www.spartanmarine.com/all-produ ... aintenance

Pete Fallon wrote:Peter S,
Looks like there is a 1/4" plug on the side of the sea cock body. That plug should take a Zerk grease fitting allowing you to use a grease gun to lube the inner workings of the sea cock. It looks like your bonding wire needs to be connected to the base of the bronze sea cock not under the nut that holds the stainless steel handle the way it is now, working the handle will eventually break the bonding wire connection off. Also the sea cock and hose needs to be cleaned up and the clamp and hose should be replaced if the hose is starting to show signs of cracking or rot. There is usually a threaded screw that the bonding wire lug should attached to on the bronze base, if no screw ispresent, use a tap to allow a #8 threaded screw to be used.
Pete Fallon

Pete,

Thanks for the tip on the 1/4" plug. I actually tried putting a wrench on it but it seems to be seized and I did not want to break anything. I will hit it with some Kroil later this week and try again.

I noticed the loose bonding wire and the worn hoses myself (they actually looked worse in the picture than they did in person) when I was inspecting my seacocks. I made up a new bonding wire with proper crimp/heatshrink ring connectors to replaced it. I also replaced the hoses.

Incidentally, I followed your suggestion about replacing the ring connectors on my ignition coils. I only put about two hours on the boat before putting her away for the winter but the intermittent stalling problem did not reappear. I will see how it goes next summer.

Yannis wrote:Pete,

I have SS seacocks that I cannot seem to be able to move the handle.
There is no grease hole either.
What can a man do?
Thanks.

You should probably do a short haul and have them serviced or replaced. A frozen valve is just a damn foolish reason for a boat to sink.

Mike,

They’re just two years old...I just never remembered to move the handle every so often.
The boat is out, what kind of service do they require?
CRC? WD40? From the top? From below? All of the above? None of the above?

Yannis

Can you get a pipe on the handle. The extra leverage might help. I have one th st is always tough to move. I always work it a few tinnes in the spring and during the season. It moves easier with leverage. Once it moves, it works pretty easy. Just a bear every spring after sitting all winter.

Tony,

I should find some sort of tube, thanks.
I just fear that if I put too much pressure it might bend the kind of flimsy handle.We'll see.

I was stupid last year when I put so much effort to undo the previous (very old) seacocks and replaced them with SS ones. I should have chosen those copper ones but now it's too late. Anyway, I think that with my boat use of 4-5 months in the water, it will be a looong time before they go sour on me, mainly with electrolysis.

The handles are usually replaceable. They're just held on with a nut. If you bend one, it can be replaced. Spray a little CorrosionX or other penetrating oil on the outside of the valve. Wait a few hours and try to move it.

Yannis: You might have someone rap on the side of the valve with a hammer repeatedly at the same time you try to turn them.

Guys, I acknowledge your remarks.
I will come back soon.
Considering also that one out of the ten or so screws that tie up my port mosquito net cannot get undone....Im bringing down the creme brulee torch...i might as well use it for the seacocks!

Be careful with heat. There usually are teflon seals in there.

Thanks Rawleigh.

I finaly managed to unfreeze them, little by little, by hand.

I also finally removed the port window mosquito screen by drilling through the last screw which eventually broke off. The torch didnt do much, also I was afraid that the glass would brake from the temperature, so I stopped the torch and grabbed the drill.
On the other side all screws are frozen...my patience is drastically deteriorating!!