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My two side window sliding mosquito nets are beat.
The mesh part has separated from the frame and it’s a matter of time when they will probably fly away.
It is impossible to unscrew the top or bottom SS screws that hold the slides, so as to remove the mesh frames, and replace the mesh on them.
I can try to force them out, but once the aluminum is bent that’s the end of it.
I also believe their warranty has ...expired !
What do I do? Has anyone done this before?
Thanks.

I removed the little screws that hold the slides to get them out. Even though they are ss in aluminum they came out without too much trouble.

How did you do that?
Is there a compound that relaxes the bond ? Mine are simply impossible to turn, and the screws are small, so the screwdriver is also small and doesn't help...

Yannis

Try spraying the screw with penetrating oil. Let it sit for a day or two. Then try again. If you do not have Penetrating oil, you can mix ATF Transmission fluid or Marvel Mystery Oil with Mineral spirits 50/50 mix and give it a try.

If that does not work, then last resort is to drill the screw out. Carl will correct me, but what I usually do is trill the head off the screw to remove the item I want to get loose, then I drill out the remaining stud. The only problem will be is that you may need to go up in screw size when you put it back. When you do put it back, if you can use Tef Gel or any other type of protective anti seize coating you can find.

Good Luck

Tony, thank you,

I’m in an island’s little fishing port, so between a swim and a beer I remember to do some boat improvements, one of which is this mosquito mesh thing.

I used my black and decker portable drill and tried to unscrew the b@st@rds using medium power, so I shook em all a bit. I got three, out of 22, out so far, for the remaining ones I did what you're saying, I sprayed CRC 666 and let it soak in, tomorrow I’ll repeat it.

A friend here told me to heat the screws with a heat gun, which is what I will eventually do, the only thing is that I have it in Athens, so when I’m back in October I will continue the process...
If that doesn't work, I’ll have to drill them out, but as you're saying, I’ll have to move up a screw size which may be a whole new problem between metric and inches in screw size and drill size, so that will be my last resort..
As you also know, Murphy is lurking around and is always eager to interfear!

Yannis,
This is a perfect vacation job. CRC 6-66 Penetrating oil slowly makes its way in loosening up the corrosion. Spray it daily...give the screw and area a couple taps...if you have a heat gun...apply some heat, little more CRC...every few days try to give a turn. If it moves a little, spray it again, work it back and forth...give a tap, heat and let sit.

It may work, it may not work, but you are actively doing a project.


In the mean time, if mosquitoes are bad...patch the hole. Another great vacation project, consisting of removing backing from patch tape and apply. Check an item of the To Do List and get back to vacation status with feeling of Job well done.


If it comes to drilling out screws, I like to Spot the center of screw...or spot stud if head came off then drill a bit smaller then screw with a LH drill (if available) sometimes the heat, motion will break screw free and the drill backs it out. If no LH drill...then a standard RH drill, try to keep in center and follow with correct drill size for that screw thread. Thread portion may remain and sometimes will come out with pliers, if not, then you'll need a tap to clean out the threads.
If you miss center of screw...if old screw is really corroded solid, you can tap that hole to the old size, location will be off and you need to be very careful as part of tap will be loaded with remaining SS with balance in soft gummy Aluminum. Go slow, be careful, some tap lube is helpful. Or you drill and tap up a size that you can use, find screws and tap for and fits.
But that is not going to be a problem as you'll get the screws out.

Carl,

Ha,ha, yeah, unsticking the tape is a whole project by itself, let alone sticking it to the right place !!

Out of yesterday’s CRC soaking I managed to remove another 3 screws today. Sprayed back and wait till tomorrow.

I just realized, though, that I should not be in a hurry, because even if I manage to remove them all, I cannot fix this here, I have to wait till I go back to find the proper stainless mesh and have my guy weld it, or somehow attach it to the frame.
So let me go back to my ouzo which is patiently melting its ice!
Thanks for your drilling advices, they may be usefull for that last ONE screw that NEVER comes out!

I got mine out with the penetrating oil and tapping while turning the screw. There is no need to weld the screen; the mesh is made of nylon, and is held to the frame by a rubber strip that fits into a slot on the frame.

Yannis

The heat gun, if you are not careful can damage the surrounding area if anything is sensitive to heat. Here is another trick. Use a soldering iron and once it is hot, hold it on the head of the screw. It will get the head hot and cause the screw to expand hopefully breaking the bond.

I knew Carl would have other options.

Tooeez,

Yes, you're right, nylon mesh with elastic ribbon, so much easier!

Tony,

Not a heat gun that disperses heat in a wide area, rather a lighter/torch type of thing, that blows a flame that can be easily regulated to the desired strength, that type that we use at home to burn the sugar on the “creme brulee” , not very marine but should do the job!

I know you'll be careful and I am sure you know fiberglass is quite flammable as are many things on a boat.

Sure do Carl, thanks, I’m the most flammable thing onboard!
7 down, 2-3 more to go on port side. Starboard side will be tackled later.
Thank you all.

Yannis.

Not sure they are available in Greeced but I have one of these.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/BernzOmatic-Le ... BsQAvD_BwE

I do too, Tony, but it takes ages to transfer the heat to the screw.

I tried yesterday with one of those storm lighters that make a torch kind of flame and heated up one screw just before I burned my finger; it seemed to work a bit. Thats why I will now use the gas torch for the cakes I have at home.
Anyway, I don't remember how it is on the 31, but on the 28 there is plenty of room to work with heating these little screws, there is aluminun all around for 4-5 cm, no risk to harm the fiberglass and there is nothing passing behind.
Thanks.