bertram31.com

Fresh coats of Bahama Blue, baby!
https://www.amazon.com/photos/share/H1g ... K0jFggD8yO

Oyster White on the inside!
https://www.amazon.com/photos/share/7ot ... TtBMKw4LNI

Now for the boot stripe...opinions?

Color choices: Black or Oyster White (topsides)?

Location is following the hard chine all the way. One stripe the width of the hard chine, or offset up from bottom some amount? 1/2," 3/4"?

Getting excited...very dim, but recognizable light at the far end of the tunnel. I painted the cap a couple of weeks ago and I'm ready for non-skid. Soon the pieces will be joined for good.

Cam

Yeah baby!

That looks awesome! What a transformation, and what a difference a layer of paint makes. Must be satisfying to see all those hours fairing paying off!

Boot stripe: One of my favorite visual aspects of the Riva B25 is how the boot stripe tapers down going forward. Starts at the edge/crease above the chine, and tapers down towards the actual chine - will get you a pic later. I would definitely copy this.

Colors, ahh - so many nice options.. How about a pale red for the boot stripe? Oyster white is never wrong, but I would think black could be a bit harsh for contrast.

A darker blue could be subtle and elegant, and yellow would be sporty.

Again, awesome!

Crows Nest is dark blue and had a red boot stripe when I got her. I just didn't like it. It didn't show up well. I changed the bootstripe to white and I think it looks a lot better. Doug liked the red. To each his own. Offset on the chine up by and 1/2" or 3/4" also. My 2 cents. And I can't wait to see this masterpiece in the Bay

In this pic you see the boot stripe tapering down toward the forward chine - I think it makes a really elegant impact. Some others have been redone with fixed offset boot stripe; they look flat by comparison.



For comparison. This one has a fixed offset boot stripe:

Cam -

Looks great! Every time I read one of your posts (and look at the pictures) I'm blown away - great job.

As for the boot stripe, do you plan to paint the bottom? If so, what color? If it's black, I'd stay away from a black boot stripe, if it's white I'd stay away from both black and white boot stripes.

This winter when I had the bottom redone on One More Girl, I switched from black bottom paint to blue. It has held it's color surprisingly well. I also had the black boot stripe removed an added a white stripe right at the chine. It's very subtle, so another question, do you want the boot stripe to be subtle or pronounced. Bahama blue is a darker shade blue than my hull, so the white would pop more than it does on my hull. Also, my stripe is right on the chine and that little flare of the chine when sun light hits it blends into the blue a little more. Had the black stripe not been on the chine I would have moved it up an inch or so.

My personal preference would be to move it up slightly off the chine (as others have also suggested) and then go with a white or red. Regulator's website has tool to play around with color schemes and boot stripes, might be something to check out. Whatever you choose it will be awesome. Congrats on the progress.

Red doesn't look good with navy, but looks pretty clean with your blue.

https://www.colorcombos.com/combotester ... show_text=

Cam

The boot stripe is personal. But it should make a statement by making the blue pop.

As far as top sides, the black would help by cutting the glare you would normally get with white. The only issue is that black under Sun will get hot. In fact maybe too hot.

Cam,

I dont have a boot stripe and always wanted to put one.
Anyway, my boat hull is Sky blue, very similar to yours.
I saw a nice combination on a 33, whereby the hull is Ice blue and the stripe is Sky blue.
I will do the opposite, and put an Ice blue stripe.


Lars,

Youre right about tapering , but this guy is Swedish lol !

Big question ..... bottom paint color ??

You guys are great! Very good suggestions!

Steve - bottom paint is a variable. I could dry stack this boat within a 1/4 mile from my house and skip the bottom paint. Bottom would be Oyster White. Or, I can use my slip to store the boat (15 min drive) and paint the bottom (some color other than white). I'm having a hard time with the decision.

In an attempt to keep it simple (no laughing!), I think I will will do a simple THIN stripe that follows the chine profile. Lars - the taper is interesting, but the stripe is way too thick for my taste. Thanks, Cariedl, for the Regulator website suggestion. They have the stripe very high on the hull. Seems more like a racing stripe.

Here's a link to a collection of pictures I assemble off the web:
https://www.amazon.com/photos/share/gCZ ... 4E6gV1DJmo

In the album you will see a blue boat with a white stripe. That's should closely resemble my combination. That boat seems to sit high out of the water and the stripe is painted on the chine. My boat should sit a little deeper in the water. I may need to run bottom paint up onto the chine in the stern, so the stripe should be higher.

Another picture shows an off-white boat with a black stripe on a trailer (boat.ag). I think this might be the right model in terms of placement and stripe width.

A few other pics in the album to consider. The red stripe of the white boat is nice. Chines are out of the water on that one too.

Thanks!
Cam

Cam,

First of all, thanks for doing the homework for us, you made a shortlist worth considering.

One other thing I wanted to say is that it would be wise to first put the boat in the water and load it.
Put water, gas, gear, etc, and let it sit for a while till it marks itself with where the boot stripe should be.
From then on you could more easily tell the position and thickness of it.

Also consider that a light colored or white bottom will always have a dirty rim...a darker one doesnt show that “ring around the collar” so much.

Hi Cam,

On my boat, I just painted the flared out section another color, it doesn't stick out that much against the black bottom paint so I doubt it has any real effect on how the boat looks. The flare is about 2" thick, one thought if you don't like the thickness of the stripe band, you could paint 1/2 of the flare and leave the other 1/2 the base hull color.

Color wise, I leave that to my wife as I am pretty poor at making decisions which look good

It must be nice to be at a point with paint going on the hull, I'm 3 or so years behind you.

Cam,

Looking great!!!

I vote for a double stripe. Half the chine flare, then 1/4 hull color then top with 1/4 stripe color.

Here's a good looking boot stripe, though I don't care for the white chine/bottom:
http://newimages.yachtworld.com/resize/ ... 1665883000

My wife is leaning towards a dark blue, so will probably go that route to keep some harmony in the house. She has put up with me for 20 years and this project for 9 years now...

Joe's double stripe:

https://imgs.yachthub.com/1/7/1/2/0/6/0_4.jpg

good one!
https://i.pinimg.com/736x/c5/86/85/c586 ... 9527e9.jpg

some pics of boats I've saved over the years, If these pics are of your boat and you don't want them posted please let me know and I will remove them

here's one with similar hull color and no boot stripe
https://photos.app.goo.gl/EsMmfUo1WyiPxjzG9

this one has the flare split
https://photos.app.goo.gl/1k4AHNqDBAoULFXj8

complimentary color
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JK55p2KTxomPDHSW8

Cam, love the color and can’t wait to see her finished. My choice would be to paint the chine oyster white. Like the one in your original post. That looks amazing! Wish my boat had the blue hull. You are right about having the bottom paint go higher onto the chine in the Stern. When I put my 300 Suzuki on the boat it sat a good 2-3” lower. I’m trying to figure out how to bottom paint the chine so she looks good. Currently my black bottom paint follows the lower part of the chine. But the new water line sits at the top of the chine and drops to bottom of chine about 4’ from transom. Not sure if I should just taper the line all the way to bow or just cover the 4’ from transom. So for your boat I’m not sure how that will look with a boot stripe. Tough choices!

Figured out how to post an image. This was the one I liked from your collection of photos.

Looks great how about no boot stripe?

awesome work cam

Or use a tape one for a year or two and see how you like it! Then paint one ( or not) when you finally settle on what you want.

I decided to hold off. I need to see the boat in the sunlight before deciding on racing stripes.

Cam, You better get going--I have finally started on my restoration this week. Goal--use it next summer.

there is also a triple stripe as suggested by Raybo marine like he said it is your signature on a restoration.

After lurking for too many years I’ve just now decided to join up as I’m in the middle of my 31 restoration and esp after seeing this thread regarding your boot top color selection. I’ve wanted to post some pics, mainly because it’s Alexseal Sky Blue, which appears somewhat close to your Awlgrip Bahama Blue, but unfortunately I’ve been having a problem with Photobucket downloads. Numerous pics of mine can be found on my Instagram at @reidpinkham5800 or scrolling down a bit on the #Bertram31 Instagram page. My stripe is Oyster to match my topsides and bottom, as it will sit on a lift. The single white stripe is 1.75” wide and has a .75” gap between it and the bottom color, which follows the chine. I agonized way too long and hard over this detail, but in the end was pleased with the selection, and a somewhat classic factory look. If someone is interested enough I’m certainly OK with them posting any of my pics relevant to this thread. I’ll try and post everything I’ve got before too long in a new restoration thread.
-Regards,
Reid

Reid

Most of us are using Imgur for a hosting site so we can post pics on the site.

Just so you know, this group loves pics. So post away.

If these pics show up I’ll be amazed.

(edited by Mike)

Try this...only see one file, here it is in a link format...
https://imgur.com/gallery/ynT7YlU

Thanks, Reid. That is a beautiful combination!

Thanks for the posting help. If this link works, to me it represents one of the more classic points on a 20, 25 or 31; where the curved transom, the unique chine, the dead rise, the boot top, and often even the exhaust, all come together to form something unrivaled.

https://imgur.com/gallery/emK8lxw

(Edited by Mike)

1973?

All sales paperwork and last previous registration says 1970. Survey came back with 1971. Hull Number 3151015. Out of Norwalk, CT. Listed for sale most of 2015, formally known as TACK. Had 427 Mercs.

There were no Hull numbers on the Transom until 1972. So not sure how they came up with that number. Check on the inside of the transom, centerline right behind the fuel tank. Bertram used to place a hull number there. Also sometimes up in the front V berth you might find a number written on one of the panels or the Hull.

ReidPfromNC wrote:All sales paperwork and last previous registration says 1970. Survey came back with 1971. Hull Number 3151015. Out of Norwalk, CT. Listed for sale most of 2015, formally known as TACK. Had 427 Mercs.

I caught a glimps of the boat on Imgur, really looks like she's coming along nicely.

Sorry for any confusion, but that number is indeed on the inside of the transom as you referenced, and not the upper right transom. Surveyor’s date may be just a typo.

Here is some info on Hull Numbers

312 designates the open model (Moppie)
313 = hardtop model
314 = sport fish model
315 = fly bridge cruiser
316 = Bahia Mar model
317 = express model

Pete Fallon had posted this some years back.

Guy's,

There were 3 different HIN # formats. The HIN# was required after November 1, 1972. It had to be embossed or on a plate on the starboard transom area. A combination of 12 letters and numbers were used.

In 1972 there were 2 formats in use, Straight Year and Model Year .

Straight Year would be as an example ABC 12345 08 72. ABC is the manufactures id code (Issued by the Coast Guard). 12345 is the production or serial number, 08 is the month of production, 72 is the year .

Model year would be as an example XYZ (manufactures code), 4567 ( serial # or production #) M ( desaignates that it using Model Year Format), 84 (model year) A (month of production)


The New Format took effect on August 1 , 1984
BMA (Manufacturers code) 45678 (production or serial #) H4 (Month of Production) 85 (Model Year)

The NEW FORMAT replaced the Straight Year and Model Year formats . It was optional as of January 1, 1984, but manditory August 1, 1984. Confidential HINS were not required proir to August 1, 1984 ( Second set of numbers usually hidden by the manufacturer)

The Key to month of production for the NEW FORMAT after August 1, 1984
A-January B- Febuary C- March D- April E- MAy F-June G- July H- August
I- September J_ October K- November L- December.

The Key to the month of production for the new format. Most boat companies changed there model years in August.
A-August B- September C- October D- November E- December F- January
G- Febuary H- March I April J- May K- June L-July

The letter I is not used anymore because it looks like a 1.

I got this from the Florida Marine Patrol to assist in the identification of stolen vessels. STOLEN BOAT SECTION - 904-488-5757

Now if your not totally confused try being a surveyor and looking at all the different formats , painted over HINS and missing plates and no standard HIN # requirements before 1972.

So the M is not Military Spec but it is the Model Year Format.