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I was doing some maintenance and noticed corrosion on the nipples that are on the fuel coolers that supply cooling water to the shaft seals. Replaced them but learned one of them was totally blocked.
Does anyone know if the graphite/stainless collar is compromised due to heat? Not sure how long it has been like this but have to wonder if they are cooled by water there has to be some sort of shortening of the life span. Replacing dripless seals means pulling shafts and project creep because I would have to do Capt Pat's tube upgrade/extension because I can't leave well enough alone.

Did a little more poking around with the shaft seals. I called the seal graphite but realized it's carbon. One of the mating surfaces must be warped but not sure which one. Visible that when shaft is turning something is not right and a bit of leakage. Engine may need realignment but not sure yet. Strut backing does not make any movement or vibration so prop is fine. Hoping I don't have replace dripless seals but they do have 12 years on them.

Kevin,
It's the carbon side that will have the issue on high speed logs as the cooling water that surrounds the log goes away at speed.

You had a lift if I remember, pull back the bellows and look at carbon face for wear. You can also compress the collar against the bellows a bit. Those bellows do take a set over time.

Thanks Bruce I will check it out. The big issue is real estate. There is no space between the stainless collar and the coupler. I can pull the one inch spacer between the flange and the coupler and that's assuming I can break coupler free of the shaft. 12 years is a long time for corrosion to get a hold of things. I am on a lift so it's doable. I really hate this time of year, too hot laying on the deck.
If I were to get the carbon part off the shaft, can I lap it on a bench sander or should it just be replaced along with the bellows?

Flat hard surface you can resurface. But you will have to polish using at least 1500 for it to seal. After 12 years if I were pulling it all apart to do that, I'd replace it first.

Hot?

The shop is 97 degrees these days and I'm sure will push over 100 in August. Good thing our winter is just around the corner in February.

Kevin: 1. Make sure wife is away. 2. Put towel at bottom of door. 3. Spray water on the sliding glass door. 4. Slap a piece of sandpaper on the glass and resurface away. 5. Clean up before wife returns!

Good one! I think I may just order up some new seal kits. Either way, I will have to make a press that will assist with getting couplers off the shaft. This is one downfall to an extreme aft engine placement.

Kevin: How much space is there between the coupler halves when pushed back. If there is room , you can put a socket in between them and use longer bolts to press the shaft out. Even if there isn't that much room you can use multiple spacers of staggered sizes to press it off. Just be careful to tighten the bolts a little bit at a time so you don't bend the flanges.

This is one area where having a shop fit and finish shafts into couplings is worth the extra expense along with lathering the whole assembly with tef gel.

I forgot all about the socket trick! I have a one inch spacer between the flange and coupler. After that it's pretty much sliding the bellows another half inch or so aft.
I think to get me by for mini season I will afix a plastic jug to stop the salt mist from getting everywhere. I will need to order some glass tube to redo the stern tubes. They are a bit caddywompus. Time to start studying the building tips section ......high performance shafting. Curious if there is a speed gain on my setup with it. Thanks for the tips fellas.

Bruce wrote: Hot?

The shop is 97 degrees these days and I'm sure will push over 100 in August. Good thing our winter is just around the corner in February.

97 deg days are over for me, your a better man then me Bruce.


When the shop hit 95 we call it a day.

If I know its gonna be real hot, I ask if they want to do a quick lunch then knock off early.

As it is we start at 6:30 quitting at 3 to avoid the heat...and humidity.

Aside from just me and the guys, the machines get fussy in the heat...rolling brown outs don't help.


100 deg...forgetaboutit

Kevin: You can make the tube by wrapping and taping plastic sheet over a pvc or metal pipe and wrapping the fiberglass around it. The plastic can be slid off the pipe and then you can unwrap it from inside the tube by rolling it up on a smaller tube. Make it longer than you need and cut it to length. I think Bob Lico made his tubes protrude through the bottom of the boat for drag reduction, but I will let him speak to that.

Kevin I bought my tube from Fishires supply https://www.fisheriessupply.com/centek- ... st-housing it worked out nice.

For that price I think I'd just buy them!

seriously i stop functioning at 80 degrees. i have no ambition in that heat, humidity, however, i have no problems in minus 20 degrees.i am serious you can carefully dress for o degree weather like snowmobiling leather bibs and leather jacket with a neck warmer (Dickie) what can you do beyond a pair of shorts and tee shirt in 90-degree weather? a man was made for clean air 45 degrees flannel shirt an jeans. i left Florida with no hopes of ever returning. i have a condo on the water in Delray Beach and will most likely never use it.