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After reading all of the previous multiple threads about Azek board my winter project on our 38 is going to be the cockpit sidepanels. I have two questions. 1.) Is this stuff really as easy to use as it sounds? 2.) Does anyone have pictures of completed projects using Azek installed with or without Awlgrip they would be willing to share. I appreciate everyone’s help.
Kind regards,
Brian

Bill-

The cockpit side panels on my B31 Crows Nest are unpainted azek. Previous owner (Doug C.) was a big fan of azek. He also used it for the overhead panels in the "salon." Its really easy to work with. I'll try to figure out pictures (photobucket casualty), but it looks like unpainted azek.

John

I used Starboard on my cockpit side panels, but Azek is just as good or better. It was never particularly important to me to have a self bailing cockpit (I did add several large bilge pumps) but since I spend a bit of time out in the slop on a boat with knee-high gunnels, I wanted toeholds wherever possible. So the bottom of those three pieces is scalloped, and once your toes are under them, you aren't going overboard unless you become detached from your legs.

Just something to consider, when starting from scratch.

I am planning the same project on my 31. I saw the Azek on Bob Lilco's boat. He says easy to care for. If it gets dirty or scuffed he pulls out a sanding block with some fine grit paper and gives it a rub down and it is as good as new.

I have worked with Azek before. Make sure you get the right blade for your saw. If not it will gum up a blade pretty quickly. Also to cut those long panels make sure you have supports for the in and out feed. The stuff flex's pretty easily.

number one make sure it is Azak brand pvc board the box store brand X is gummy in the center and yes if it becomes scuffed i use sanding block,320 wet paper and a water hose directly on surface. listen to mike`s advice i have no side panel so my feet go under gunnel as i bent over to gaff tuna,shark if you want the extra eight inches added to cockpit on port and starboard side if you want side panels at least scalloped the bottom along entire learnt this is essential for safety however i might be wrong but if i am every kitchen in america is wrong (toe kick under kitchen cabinets).

I used Azek as well. Very easy. Used the old panels as a template and a jig saw for the curved areas and a table saw for the straight cuts. Easy to clean and looks great!

Thank you all for the replies. The tow rail sounds like an ideal scenario but unfortunately the 38 has a fiberglass lip coming up from the deck ruling that out, if anyone has ideas on the lip let me know. As far as the cockpit corners how has everyone done them? Currently I have teak covering all the corner seams.
Thanks,
Brian

Im very happy with my "open plan". You can fit all sorts of things and you're not limited by the size of the opening.

https://img4.hostingpics.net/pics/48379 ... 015137.jpg

As for the corners, (oh well, it's not exactly the corners you are referring to...but anyway)

https://img4.hostingpics.net/pics/46077 ... 015140.jpg

Brian

I am planning on putting back up some type of teak corner trim. I was thinking of making the panels a little longer and trying to see if I could miter the corner and put in the teak trim. Issue is the current panel also has a block behind it in the corner that the trim attaches too. This holds the ends together and allows for the fastening of the teak trim.

The issue with mitering the corners is that the stern panel sits at a slight angle, as it sits in the teak trim plate.

Tony,

I am going to replace the remaining teak trim on the panels with Azek. I like the look of all white, and not having to deal with the teak. I'll probably use 1x2.

Piece of 3/4" triangular teak trim fits into corner, screws go into the corner after a predrill.
Probably shouldn't work but it does.

Joe

I was thinking the same thing.

Carl, that is what is pretty much there now. A pice of teak with two 45's cut down each side. Would be easy enough to make a new one if that is how I decide to go. I am debating the toe kick. I like the look of the teak trim along the bottom.

Gents,
While I am ordering the Azek for the cockpit sidepanels, one more question. Has anyone used the material for cabinet doors? I am in the process of removing my tackle center to have it painted and I was wondering if the Azek material would work well for the cabinet doors on it? If the Azek board will work it will allow me to eliminate the teak trim around and on the doors.
Thanks,
Brian

absolutely , Azek also hold screws well however you can easily reinforce screw hole around hinges.

Brian

Just hold onto the doors just in case after you have the new doors you find you prefer the teak look.

Bob,
What board thickness did you use for your sidepanels? And how would you go about reinforcing the hatch hinge screw? Thanks for your help. On another note how is your 38 project coming along?
-Brian

i don`t have side panels i finished F/G on inside of hull and use that space with three spaced rack to hold gaffs on starboard side and pole,cleaning broom on other side. 16" from edge of engine box edge i used 3/4" azak piece from cockpit floor tuck in on top by gunwale overhang .i installed W/P electrical panel for salt water wash down,bait well,under gunwhale lights,and transom underwater lights.rather silly to control from bridge not my concern.in back of this wall is a shaped fresh air intake (like a capital D same as F-14 ) to cummins diesel. starboard side has salt water outlet to baitwell, shore power SS outlet, and along side 120 volt SS cockpit outlet. the walls sits on deck and use 3M 4000 to glue to wings and cock pit deck can be taken apart easily with shapen putty knife . UV resistant perfect for 12 years of usage.