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A question for those of you who have tackled B31 window glass replacement.......
When replacing the sliding side window glass and the fixed side window glass (both sections) on a B31 with Lucite or Lexan type material within the original frames, what is the recommended thickness for the replacement material?
Thanks for any recommendations you can provide.

Parker-
Thanks for asking this. I need to replace a cracked Port side glass and have been thinking of going to a single pane (Pain?) considering all the work to dig out and open up the frame.
...listening...
Stephan

Guys see if this helps.

Re: Windows
Postby Pete Fallon » Apr 20th, '15, 22:36
Yannis

Still searching for you but here is one more. This is Pete Fallon giving advice.


Wursty,
The easiest way is to make a template with door skin, then break the old window out and replace it with plexi glass either tinted or clear. Clean out the old felt track and on a hot day put the Plexi in the sun for a few hours, or in your oven on low heat, (check with the wife before putting it in her oven), wear leather gloves and when its hot but not melted, just so it's pliable enough to bend, put into the frame, it should bend enough to go in, work it in at the forward section where the framework is the widest, Try a piece of scrap Plexi to see how much heat is needed to make it workable. You might have to use a heat gun to heat it up so it is workable, but not hot enough to melt or damage the Plexi- glass. The Plexi glass might have to be a little smaller thickness than the old safety glass which is about 3/8'' thick, But if it is warn enough 3/8" Plexi will go in. Once its into the track don't screw with it until it cools down. It helps to have 2 people when doing this job.
The other way involves removing the screws inside the old window track( which are usually corroded into the frame, they are slotted head screws, breaking the bedding compound loose from the house sides and taking the frame apart at the aft end, more screws on the outside of the framework and it's a major under taking that usually leads to (1) a broken forward window,(2) a broken aluminum frame, (3) a paint job around the window frame and fiberglass on the cabin house sides (4) a lot of swearing and cut fingers. Good luck. Our you could call Capt. Patrick or Tom Oakes and pick their brains on how to do it.
Pete Fallon


one more on the felt.

http://bertram31.com/newbb/viewtopic.ph ... ws#p113792

I used 1/4" Makrolon (lexan) in dark grey with UV protection (close to limo tint in darkness).

Plastic does have a couple draw backs from glass...I took care of most issues by cutting lengths longer giving larger overlap.

Overlap stopped pains from sliding easy. Original owner had one window replaced with Plexi- cut to standard window size. Used to have issue with it sliding open when running in slop, longer stopped that.
Overlap stopped heavy driven rains from making its way in
Overlap added extra support...single plastic pushed hard enough will pop out. Doubled I couldn't push out of track with several good shoves.

Down side...after a few years material degrades in clarity.

Tony,

I had posted my experience with the replacement of my broken stb rear glass, but mine is a 28; I dont know if the same principles apply to the 31 too.
Anyway, it doesn't hurt to glance through my post. Unfortunately the pics are no longer there.

Yannis wrote:Tony,

I had posted my experience with the replacement of my broken stb rear glass, but mine is a 28; I dont know if the same principles apply to the 31 too.
Anyway, it doesn't hurt to glance through my post. Unfortunately the pics are no longer there.

Yannis

Yes I saw that. You can thank Photo bucket.

http://bertram31.com/proj/tips/window.htm

This might help also.

Here is how Yannis did his 28


http://bertram31.com/newbb/viewtopic.ph ... lit=window