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Any tips on removing front cabin bulkhead? I'll be adding fiberglass window delete. Anything else I need to be aware of as far as structural support? Thanks

Vince

I am operating from a note pad and can not post links to discussions.

Try using the search function and use the following for the search

Fly bridge Stability Question

Aft bulkhead-F'glassing it in?

If these discussions don't help you try similar search's. I am not at home and will be away for a few days so will not have access to a desk top to help with your search.

If no one else jumps in and you have time I will be able to try and help you out in about a week give or take.

Tony Meola wrote:Vince

I am operating from a note pad and can not post links to discussions.

Try using the search function and use the following for the search

Fly bridge Stability Question

Aft bulkhead-F'glassing it in?

If these discussions don't help you try similar search's. I am not at home and will be away for a few days so will not have access to a desk top to help with your search.

If no one else jumps in and you have time I will be able to try and help you out in about a week give or take.

Thank you! I'll search and see what I can find!

Vince,
Are you building a new windshield or buying one?

Capt.Frank wrote:Vince,
Are you building a new windshield or buying one?

Capt frank I plan on buying a fiberglass windshield.

Are you referring to a fiberglass solid windscreen,some refer to as a brow,not to see thru? Have you pulled out the old windshield/side glass panels yet? The bulkhead you are referring to is the divider that separates the vee berth area from the salon area?. All these replacement plans need to follow a logical order! Once you have decided on the new bulkhead design,I suggest you install that,it's structural. Prop up/brace the under side of the vee berth area with 2x4" that give you the same ht as before u cut out the bulkhead. It will collapse some and the boat could push apart some , the windshield /Assy is the only thing keeping the hull from spreading, if the bulkhead is removed. When you are removing the windshield /side glass Assy, for sure prop everything in place and hold the hull together with a healthy ratchet strap,side to side. Measure the windshield/side glass hts and length dimensions and note, also, put chine blocking under this area as the hull is actually quite flimsy once all this structural stuff is removed. My boat had a 1" difference in side window ht fwd and the port side widow was 2" longer than the Strb . Don't know who makes f/g windshields ,mine was made by a friend of the Capt, Holmsey was his name and I think he still works for Viking in riviera beach ,FL,I could tract him down maybe. I was unable to install the f/g windshield and eventually paid him to muscle it in place,big job,again there was no standard opening dimensions when the early boats were built,let me know if I can be of assistance

I also installed the Holmsley insert----Raybo did the work---but it was so long ago, I am sure it was a lot of work.

Over the years, I have seen pictures of redo's that removed the forward bulkhead separating the main cabin and the v-berths along with the hull cap, it really opens up the cabin. Not sure how this holds up years later. You are taking out a lot of structure.

I do remember one boat (Seanile) that was experiencing stress cracks, I think it was on the hull truth, although I am not sure if they did this modification.

I opened up the vee bunk area by cutting about a 1 1/2' radius into the ceiling and carried this opening(3') width down to the new floor( I raised the flooring in the vee bunk area) . The ceiling was then very flexible and I needed to epoxy a stiffner which was a piece of 1/2'x2" coosa to the newly cut radius, fill in the gap with a peanut butter consistency Cabosil filled epoxy pressed into the gap with a radius form tool. I kept the new stiffner about 1/2" above the top edge and eventually fastened the vee bunk headliner Panel to the lower exposed part, the flexing disappeared,I also made the new bulkhead out of the 1/2" coolant board