Engine Selection

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Tony Meola
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Engine Selection

Post by Tony Meola »

I did not want to steal from the thread about Marlin Magazines article on rebuilding the 31 so I am going to ask it here since its some thing I am not clear on.

I was seriously thinking about repowering with the 330 remans, however after seeing Uncle Vic say he would go with the electronic 330's I was wondering if there is enough of a differance between the two to make a differance in performance or fuel economy?

I think from all the postings I have a pretty good idea what the old 330' will do, but what about the new ones?

I don't see myself selling the boat for quite a while. The boat will be in the family 32 years this year and I expect it to make another 20, unless I can no longer keep it for whatever reason.

Who would have thought that when the boat was first built someone would say, hey it will still run with the best of them 40 or more years from now. I bet the marketing guys would love to have had the forsight to say that. Tony Meola
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JP Dalik
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Post by JP Dalik »

Regarding the new QSB 330. Air requirements become a factor as intake air has to be withing x number of degress of ambient temperature.
Fuel filtering is more critical and the recommendation (as per Cummins) is 2 filters 1 30 and 1 10 micron before the engines spin on. Water in the fuel becomes a bigger issue, these are common rail high pressure.
Exhaust is a full 6" out which would require a cross over tube on the port side or the use of longer Cabrerra style boxes to get the port exhaust back.
Your gauge panel will be 2 Smartcraft digital clusters or a combination of gauges with the smartcraft panels hidden somewhere (this takes up space).
In as wet an application as a 31 Bertram I would choose the mechanical b series at 330hp over the electronic motor every day.
The electronic QSB will allow you an easier water pump impeller change, especially if you have a generator outboard the port side. This is the only plus I can see. It hasn't been proven to me that one is quieter than the other at cruise speed.
KR


JP
1977 RLDT "CHIMERA"
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JohnD
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Post by JohnD »

I can agree on the electornic stuff not mixing well with saltwater.

Cummins has become very proud of their reman motors for '07 there up to about $23-25k a copy??? up quite a bit from a couple of years ago when they came out. The other thing is at that price you could get new from some of the other mfg's.

If you're close I'd definetly price out new over the remans.

Also, it kinda depends on how you use your boat and how you want to take care of it, as the new stuff may take a little more TLC.

Either one would be a great chocie.

br,
JohnD
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In Memory of Vicroy
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Post by In Memory of Vicroy »

I was spending someone else's money, not mine. I sure like my old mechanical 6BTA 250s. The QSBs are good for those with lotta money, and the dreaded "the enemy of good is better".....anyway, I was just musing about stuff. Sure like how quiet the QSBs are tho. On the other hand, my 6Bs shake at idle enough to keep the dirt daubers from landing.

UV
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Post by Thums Up »

I am doing a repower too. And, look in to them. I think they aren't worth it yet. I would rather go with the remans. or running take outs. They have proved themselves for over 30 yrs. The new ones are quiter, quicker, less smoke, etc. But they are also unproven in the salt over the years. I believe the block is the same but not much else is.

On another note, our capt. in Costa Rica said the warm el nino water has left and sail and marlin fishing is getting hot!
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bob lico
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Post by bob lico »

last post on the subject!! the 330hp remanufacture is not REMANUFACTURE what part does the public not understand.block cast date is 3 months prior to delivery date.it is just a way of avoiding tier 3 regulation after all it is a "replacmentment" motor.
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Bruce
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Post by Bruce »

Tony,
I've posted on numerous threads about the 330 QSB's as I have installed them in a 31. You can do a search with those key words to see pics and read text.

The whole idea behind electronic engines is not fuel savings or being quiet. Its passing the tier two and three emissions.

To get that done, some of the engines are tweaked in ways that are not friendly to longevity.

In my opinion, for what little its worth, if I were considering Cummins as an engine brand I would put the 250 6bta engines in. Vertually indestructable and as simple as it gets.

The mechanical 330's would be next on the list.

Having installed all three major players of electronic engines in the 31, the only ones that really impressed me as well thought out with the least amount of problems would be the, sorry UV, Volvo's.

Beside the old mechanical ratings are genuine.

The new stuff reaches max hp only at wot with a low fuel and air temp.
Anything above these temps or off wot will reduce hp by 5 to 10%.
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Capt. DQ
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Post by Capt. DQ »

Here....Here...Thanks Bruce, I agree with that vote on the 250hp 6bta's. I like simple, in making my boating life simpler and less complicated.

DQ
1967 Hull #315-605 FBC ---<*)((((><(
"IN GOD WE TRUST"
'Life may be the party we hoped for...but while we are here we might as well fish'!
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Bruce
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Post by Bruce »

my boating life / simpler and less complicated
That's an oxymoron.
Tony Meola
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Post by Tony Meola »

Actually the comments are really helpfull. I am in the process of getting prices right now and will be making a final decision in hopefully the couple of weeks. The gassers spoiled me since if I have time I do my own work. But after 32 years and the starbord engine given me fits I think its close to time to make a move. By the time I fix my shaft logs that are leaking and repower with gas and change the fuel tank, I think diesals start to become a little more attractive. Especially if I plan on hanging to this for 10 or 15 more years god willing. Tony Meola
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John Jackson
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Post by John Jackson »

Tony, I went through the process recently, and I went with reman 270Bs. The boat runs like a sports car with them. If you are in the area again, I would be happy to take you out so you could get an idea of what they are like. Just give me a call 732-829-9853.
Tony Meola
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Post by Tony Meola »

John

Thanks for the offer. Since I keep the boat over in Forked River getting over one day should not be a problem. I will try and catch up with you in couple of weeks. My biggest issue is my wife. She is worried about the diesal smell and since she is always out with me, if they smell too much I will never hear the end of it. I know the new ones run a little cleaner but I am not sure its worth the price differance. I asked about the 270's but they told me that they are all gone. Plenty of 330's left. I know everyone loves the 250's but I am hoping that with diesals I can back into running the Canyon again. Carryng extra gas got to be too much of hassel. Plus on those nice days, with the bigger engines I figured I could cover more ground faster to get out and back in. But you know, in all the years running the Canyon, I have never had a flat Ocean going both ways. Could only get it good going one way or the other. Tony Meola
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Bruce
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Post by Bruce »

I know the new ones run a little cleaner
Only enough to keep emmissions down but the cumbustion and smell are still there.

If your wife is really sensitive to the diesel smell as some are, underwater exhaust are a way to go. I did them on a flush deck motor yacht I repowered a few years back for a guy who's wife would not step on the boat cause of the smell.

Had them come out under midships instead of by the transom. Worked real well.
The only thing you have to get used to is the rumbling under the boat.

Sounds like a sub is trying to surface under the boat.

Side exhausts work well too.

Anything to keep the suction at the transom from bringing the fumes back in an open cockpit.

Using additives will help tremendously also.
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thuddddddd
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Post by thuddddddd »

Bruce what does underwater do to the back pressure? Are there any other xtra requierments? big ass surge tubes, ect??
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Bruce
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Post by Bruce »

Tim,
Back pressure is an issue and the size of the outlets has to be calculated into the dimenson equasion and design.
IE, how far from the engine are the outlets going to be and how many turns.

Every 90 degree elbow equates to about 15' of straight pipe flow resistance on the average. Longer radius 90's are not as bad but in most applications take up too much space.

No surge tubes. The outlet height (tube thru the bottom) is worked into where the water line on the loaded boat will be along with the height of the engine exhaust outlet above the water line.

This will determine whether a riser and what height is needed on the engine.

Engine room ceiling height can also be a factor.

Since I had changed alot of things on "Classy Lady", I glassed over the old transom exhaust and completed the install then put the boat in the water and filled it with fuel, water and 15 people( 4 cases of free beer on a Friday after noon at the boat yard) to get an accurate water line. Marked and pulled back out and did the exhaust.

Good thing I did cause my initial calculations on height were off by 4".
Tony Meola
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Post by Tony Meola »

Bruce

Thanks. Yes she is sensitive to the smell. Had a slight gas leak one time. She picked it up I couldn't. I really would like to move away from gas but we will see. If I get a chance to take John up on his offer, I will get a real good idea of how it smells. Since she won't go offshore with me, the long day of trolling is not an issue and running it should not be too bad. Tony Meola.
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