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Team deck seams

Posted: Jun 14th, '17, 11:29
by PeterPalmieri
So I have these half round stainless caps. The way they were built they tend to not have anything for the screws to grab too. It looks like at some point they were calked and then the seal was broken when the de k needed to be removed.

Wondering if I can caulk them to a finished look at not put the half rounds back. Or caulk the seams so the screws have something to grab onto. I'm really not sure how to move forward. A picture of one removed and the other in place.

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu28 ... 6smltx.jpg

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu28 ... rxxwtm.jpg

Re: Team deck seams

Posted: Jun 14th, '17, 12:12
by Carl
Or use longer screws to hit the beams the two deck panels are resting on.

I'd also caulk seams to prevent water from sitting in there...but caulk by itself won't hold a screw well on its own. Been there done that and really hurt those toes that caught screw backing out. I still have no idea why screws back off/out...I'd think they'd get stuck in place...if not stuck gravity would hold 'em down...but nope, screws unscrew and catch toes.

If those seems were even with others, I'd clean'm out to fill seams with West System black graphite epoxy.

Re: Team deck seams

Posted: Jun 14th, '17, 18:11
by Raybo Marine NY
first try longer screws, if they dont grab and when you remove the trim nothing is moving around tape it off and use boatlife teak deck sealant

flat trim would be better but half round stainless insert is easier to come by probably why they used it

Re: Team deck seams

Posted: Jun 15th, '17, 08:26
by PeterPalmieri
If I go with longer screws they'll likely need to be 3 to 4". If I go the route of finished teak deck sealant. I'd likely need to insert some 1/8 or 1/4" foam tubing so the sealant doesn't drip down and sag. Any problem with that?