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While I was taking pictures of the rotten tank, I decided I snap a few of the engine cover issues I have now that the new engines are in....





they are sitting on the new exhaust risers.

I was thinking of just building up the upper deck parts about 1.5 inches and laying some glass, sand and paint. Then reattach the doors and knotch the center step part into the cabin.

Any one have any better ideas?

also the question is what to build it up with....

Ford,

Are you sure you cannot somehow tilt those risers, so the tops can close normally?
Alternatively, could you modify them so they fit?
I suspect any of the above choices shall be more economical and less cumbersome than having to redo the engine covers.
I have diesels and managed to add risers without the need to modify the covers.

I recently had a similar issue on my 28, following an engine swap. In my case the issue was resolved by shifting the engines forward.

If I shifted them forward it would be get worse. With the old engines the post for the spark arrestor would hit the engine cover. That was not a huge deal. So with the new engines I found low profile intakes and the quick fuel carbs them self were about 3/4 of inch shorter than the Rochesters. So that was resolved. However I switched from rear riser log manifolds to new center riser aluminium manifolds and risers. There is no real way to modify them.

Thought about making bumps, putting the later to the flybridge on them on one side and using them to hold an ice chest on the other, but it would severely weaken the center port cover. Plus I like my flat deck.

Ford,

What engines do you have?
If you could take some pics with the covers open, then perhaps someone with the same engines could give some advice.

its stroked 350's. 383's. Its storming right now, so I will take some pictures later. This is them on the dyno so you can see the manifolds and risers.

Also, please note the 2in spacer below the riser is gone. That was just to add 02 sensors for setting it up correctly on the dyno.

Hmmmm, what I see is that even if you could bring the risers lower you' might have the coolant tank or heat exchanger (whichever it is) sticking up...
Have you considered lowering the engine supports or the beams they sit on?
This is how mine are installed so they fit.

The coolant tank is lower because of the angle the engine sits at in the boat. Same reason the older rear riser manifolds fit. They were just close. If I would adjust the motors
down wouldn't I push the shaft angle out of wack?

What make exhaust elbows are those you have?

They look higher than 'normal', regardless of the spacers you are not using.........you may want to check, as if you are inch short you might solve via using less tall elbows if available.

Other than that maybe time for some custom stainless steel headers!

This is the sort of exhaust elbow that I am referring to:

http://www.go2marine.com/product/244911 ... 98126.html

ford351c594 wrote:The coolant tank is lower because of the angle the engine sits at in the boat. Same reason the older rear riser manifolds fit. They were just close. If I would adjust the motors
down wouldn't I push the shaft angle out of wack?

Yes and no. How is the transmission set up? Does it have a down angle or it is it straight? If it has a down angle, you might be able to lower the engine and go with a straight transmission.

If not then it will be the shaft angle.

The other option is to rebuild the deck area and raise the hatch's.

Lots of ways to skin the cat.

Another possible down and dirty might be to laminate a spacer to top of the motor box, thus only raising top of box and hatches. Something easy to work with, Coosa, marine ply. Match perimeter contour, cutout for hatches, laminate that same step for hatches to rest.

Top is flat, sides match or can be beveled, so not alot of blending and fairing.

Or as you said raise boxs...I did that on my 31 when I went with new deck. I wanted more pitch for water to flow back. But was real easy on my 31, not sure what your 28 deck looks like to decide what is best way.


Lowering motor, sliding it back, change tranny for different angle, tweak strut angles by rebedding, if shaft log allows or custom strut and new log... switch Risers to lower profile (if you have enough rise), custom risers, all ways to get it done. Each opens its own can of worms.

In the case you decide to raise the covers to accommodate the risers, you could also consider the "dream" of cutting out (lowering) the middle part, so that you don't have to step- up before you step-down to the cabin; in other words make it a bit like the 31 whereby there is a gangway between the two motors leading to a flat path between the aft deck and the cabin door! A dream indeed for everyone with a bad knee condition...Don't ask me how I know...

A few months back someone posted pictures of a 28 with what looked like a neat solution to this problem. The upper deck area had been built up around the entire perimeter with what looked like starboard, then the original hatches and center section were reinstalled on top of it. The only drawback I could see would be a lip at the cabin door.

Tooeez wrote:A few months back someone posted pictures of a 28 with what looked like a neat solution to this problem. The upper deck area had been built up around the entire perimeter with what looked like starboard, then the original hatches and center section were reinstalled on top of it. The only drawback I could see would be a lip at the cabin door.

this is what I am going to do. I have some 3/4 coosa ordered. should be here next week. I'll try to mend the step as well into the cabin and create a new drip rail as I should have plenty with a 4x8 sheet to do it all. Still have to decide what to do about the tank..... highly considering a moeller cross linked tank.

You could also switch to a low profile exhaust manifold where the risers are at the back.
This will give you some ideal: https://www.ebay.com/p/?iid=12206980524 ... rue&chn=ps

Yannis wrote:http://it.yacht4web.com/Bertram/28-fbc/ ... 112-02.jpg

Wow, i like that, but it looks pricey. I wonder why Bertram didn't do that from the factory?

Rawleigh,

If you ask me it is because Napier wanted to differentiate from Hunt. He had already created a roomier, dryer, deeper V, so he also wanted this to show from the dock!

that is quite beautiful.....

Rawleigh wrote:Wow, i like that, but it looks pricey.

The asking price for that 1974 B28 is 85K Euro... Roughly 92.5K US$... I'd say "pricey" is an understatement...

Rawleigh wrote:I wonder why Bertram didn't do that from the factory?

At the time Bertram was targeting the "Joe the Plumber" crowd... IOW, the common middle class American... They were selling boats... Not yachts...

At the time Bertram was targeting the "Joe the Plumber" crowd... IOW, the common middle class American... They were selling boats... Not yachts...

Bertram was always the highest priced option of boats available in the seventies, they marketed to the class that could pay a thousand dollars a foot when you could buy several other boats for almost half that much.
Bertram was never a common mans boat.

We sold the common mans boat back in the day, Topaz, aqua sport,hydra sport,luhrs

Ford, if it were me I would build new hatches. Sounds harder then it is and my bet is easy then what you are contemplating. Make temporary molds with melamine and turn Down a deeper lip. I have one of these molds in my garage right now building replacement hatch for my neighbors mako. Only question is does the inboard manifold sit under the hatch or does it get into the middle deck/hatch.

Actually you could just extend the down turns on the existing hatches by building melamine mold around perimeter of existing hatches and glass on turn down. My son and I build hatches for his high school job (and my boat sickness) so I can walk you through it if you decide to go that way and need help.