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I have the original Bertram cockpit in my 82 38. I am looking for a technique/ process to restore/polish the aluminum hatch trim to give it the shine of stainless? If I understand the aluminum process correctly as soon as you sand it you will be removing the protective coating and will be stuck polishing it routinely forever. I do not mind this because by the looks of it the protective coating is long gone. If anyone has a technique for this it would be greatly appreciated, and if it works on the cockpit trim could it work on the rub rail?
Thanks,
Brian

Before I tried sanding it, I would try a really good polish and wax first. If it is pitted, there is nothing you can really do.

Catalina31 wrote:I have the original Bertram cockpit in my 82 38. I am looking for a technique/ process to restore/polish the aluminum hatch trim to give it the shine of stainless? If I understand the aluminum process correctly as soon as you sand it you will be removing the protective coating and will be stuck polishing it routinely forever. I do not mind this because by the looks of it the protective coating is long gone. If anyone has a technique for this it would be greatly appreciated, and if it works on the cockpit trim could it work on the rub rail?
Thanks,
Brian

Brian, best thing to do is remove them from the hatches, take them to a polishing shop ( there will be quite a few if you google in your area, often custom powder coat places also polish) and then have then anodized again.

There are so many polishing and Anodizing houses in the San Diego area that you will have no prob finding one. Polishing probably $150, then anodize will be $250. They will look like brand new for several years.

Brian, best thing to do is remove them from the hatches, take them to a polishing shop ( there will be quite a few if you google in your area, often custom powder coat places also polish) and then have then anodized again.

There are so many polishing and Anodizing houses in the San Diego area that you will have no prob finding one. Polishing probably $150, then anodize will be $250. They will look like brand new for several years.

Ill give that a shot. Thanks.
-Brian

if you want to try it yourself, it just like wet sanding a car. I do recommend practicing on a scrap piece of aluminium or SS first just to figure it out a bit. If you mess up no big deal just start over. I go a bit excessive but it works. start with 1000 grit wet sanding, then 2000 and then when there is no friction left with 5000 grit you are ready to polish. A buffing wheel is best if removed. If not, you can use something like this as well http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Delco-ARS121 ... SwstxVQoI9 i have 2 of these and they are great for automotive scratches and or any other polishing situation. They do however have a rather short battery life.

If you want to try to maintain the polished looked long term, you can then wipe with a good quality wax and grease remover and spray with Nyalic clear. It will loose a bit of luster however.

I recently refurbished a 1966 b25 rub rail that looked like rotten teeth. People couldn't believe it was the original 50'year old rub rail when I was done.

Using a high speed Mikita Grinder and 120 grit disk, I did the full rub rail. Then 220, then 320, then 400, then full machine polish with white paste. It was a 50 year old mirror when I was done. Took two days but has never faded.polishing now and then is required for any raw aluminum but at this high polish, if you do it regularly, it doesn't require lots of elbow grease, just easy polishing

Quinn,
How did you mask off fiberglass so that it wasn't scuffed in the process, and what what white paste do you mean just standard aluminum polish paste something like this? http://www.wolfgangcarcare.com/wolfgang ... olish.html