bertram31.com

Hi Guys ...
The floor of the tower on my Strike (approx. 4' x 7') was made of 1/8" aluminum and had a somewhat hideous fake grass carpet on top. It was corroding and has been removed to be replaced.
There are 2 2" wide supports evenly spaced running fore and aft and the outside is "L" bracket so that the floor sits inside of the "L" and is thereby help in place.....plus some bolts.
My thought was to replace with 1" starboard and by doing so, never have to address it again.....( I already have the Starboard), then thought of same type sheet is aluminum again, but 3/16" for a little extra strength.
Will the Starboard be too slippery ?
I know, COOSA glassed and painted could do it, but then its paint ... and I am shooting for as maintenance free as possible.
Starboard too slippery ? if so, stick on traction pads ....
Thanks

SeaDek?

http://www.seadek.com/default.aspx

Bertramp...In any tower I have ever had, the floor was most typically aluminum with heavy non skid awlgrip...I would absolutely not use starboard...If you want a simple quick solution, I would consider using Kiwi Grip or something similar that would give much better grip than non skid up there...John

Starboard can be quite slick when wet. Could cut grooves into it...router or circular saw. But my main issue is the stuff sags. Yes 1" thick is pretty heavy...but baking in sun, add some weight. Could add more support under. I think on outdoor decking they have to add extra joists to support...they definitely go closer then 2'.

If you go alum...I would refrain from laying anything over it that holds or traps water....can you say corrosion.

I did my with 1/4" alum diamond plate for a little extra grip, then non skid deck paint. Held up a good 10 years before I started to see spots needing help. Now it really needs help...maybe this year I'll wire brush and recoat. This time I'll do that Kiwi stuff...worked great on my deck.

I do little with sheet metal, so no great discounts, but if you can't find or want to compare pricing, my cost is your cost.

Steve ,I know you don't want to hear it but coosa board with a layer of glass and nonskid is the way to go if Jr can do glass work so can you,he is getting real good at it.this winter he is making new fish boxes that will be installed into our glass tech deck,very involved project but he is doing a great job so far

Steve

Send Keith Poe a PM. He used sheet metal for his deck. He can tell you how slippery it gets.

[quote="Carl"]
If you go alum...I would refrain from laying anything over it that holds or traps water....can you say corrosion.
That's what happened on the piece that was there
[quote="Carl"]
I did my with 1/4" alum diamond plate for a little extra grip, then non skid deck paint. Held up a good 10 years before I started to see spots needing help. Now it really needs help...maybe this year I'll wire brush and recoat. This time I'll do that Kiwi stuff...worked great on my deck.
My thought (a recommendation received) was to replace the 1/8" aluminum with 3/16" ... diamond plate and do a truck bed liner (Rhino) on both sides.

neil wrote:Steve ,I know you don't want to hear it but coosa board with a layer of glass and nonskid is the way to go if Jr can do glass work so can you,he is getting real good at it.this winter he is making new fish boxes that will be installed into our glass tech deck,very involved project but he is doing a great job so far

COOSA would probably work well and with glass and a few coats of paint last a long time ....... grrr
damn you Jersey-ites :-)

Tony Meola wrote:Steve

Send Keith Poe a PM. He used sheet metal for his deck. He can tell you how slippery it gets.

Pretty sure Keith used diamond plate with non skid.
For my tower, its been great...no sliding around at all.

If not...whoo boy, he mus be slip-sliden

We use .100 thick aluminum tread bright on a daily basis. We use it for kick plates on cold storage doors. If you can use it I can hook you up.