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Hi Guys....Decided to remove and build a new Rudder Table for my 31...Is there a "correct" height that the horizontal top surface should be specifically?? My rudders are out...It looks from some of the photos on the site that if making a long one piece Table, that the outside stringer height is about right?? Any comments are appreciated...Thanks, John

John

How are you running your exhaust. Need to make sure if you are going straight out you can clear the table. If yo are using the outboard stringer bay, then the exhaust would go right over the top of the table if you run it from stringer to stringer. The height on mine is based on the stringer height.

I know Capt. Pat's instructions is to go from stringer to stringer, we did not. The way we set up ours was to run a 3/8 fiberglass u channel, straight across. We did not run it stringer to stringer. We glassed into the hull a support at each end. I left enough room for the exhaust hose since I did not re-rout mine. If I ever repaint, then I will change them and use the outboard bay. I just did not want to get into changing the existing exhaust ports. I probably could have still used the outside bay, but was trying to get done rather than try and re-invent what was there.

Thanks Tony...I already have my exhausts running outboard...I just wanted to double check on the height as I am planning on running the top of mine to the tops of those outboard stringers unless told otherwise...Thanks

I have to do this also on the B25 this winter. Does the height of the rudder shelf matter? My rudders seem high, not going down to fully cover the props. Not sure if this is correct or not.

I have no clue Joe...That is basically the question I am asking...John

Thanks Rocky...I have been actually using your old post as my guide...So I guess the table is actually sitting on the inner stringers for the correct vertical height and just epoxed then to outboard stringers?? Thanks, John

Rocky wrote:

What material is that?!...

Yes John epoxied and glassed to stringers, and if you notice on last pic I glassed small "shelves" at ends of table to support and triangulate loads.
Nav, that is 3 layers of blue26 1/2" each with 1708 between each. Needless to say strength was not an issue when done. All done with the Capt's instruction.
Keep in mind I had the "B-28" style rudders so my rudder arms were on top. You may not have that configuration on yours as far as table height goes that will depict height to accept were they sit.

Rocky wrote:Nav, that is 3 layers of blue26 1/2" each with 1708 between each. Needless to say strength was not an issue when done. All done with the Capt's instruction.

Presumably "blue26" means Coosa Bluewater 26 Series Composite Board?!... I thought nothing stayed stuck (glued) to this material?!...

On edit: never mind, I found Pat's tip sheet on the subject: http://bertram31.com/proj/tips/rudder_shelf.htm

I wouldn't over think it...

Higher shelf is the more support you get for the rudder. So go higher then lower. But everything has to clear floor, exhaust, tiller arm needs to go on and have room...so don't cram yourself in too tight. I also like being able to drop a rudder quickly if I want...so I want a little extra room over the top to pull tiller arm off.

Rudder shaft goes all the way up into rudder post, leave enough room for it to turn freely.

32 Blackfin I just did a job for...they had 1/4" alum rudder shelf, used with alum angle to mount to stringers.

Thanks all!!