bertram31.com

Some of you may remember that years ago I made a covering board for the Bertram.


Well...it doesn't fit the new design and I'm considering re-making the entire piece.

Question: Is there a standard method to attach the covering board to the fiberglass cap? Epoxy? 5200? Thru-bolts with wood plugs to cover? My original version used screws installed from below...not a good solution.

thanks!
Cam

Cam:

At one time in my former B31's life, she went through the Merrit Yard and the teak monsters attacked the boat. Teak deck and teak covering boards were installed. They were screwed from top and had teak bungs epoxied ( I believe with T88) in place and then sanded smooth and vanished over. By the time I bought her, the teak had been sanded (read scalloped) so many times it wasn't salvageable. We dug out all the bungs, removed all the screws, and then used wonderbars and hammers to remove the teak as they were, in deed, epoxied to the fiberglass. I do believe a curse word or two were uttered, the likelihood of the parents of the installer being married was questioned and more than 1 adult beverage was consumed in the process.

Tom

Cam,

If done right and carefully, epoxy is all that you need. See the tips page on teak decking for added detail. I prefer using screws from under the gunnel, but only where a high crown on the transom plank will add too much tension to feel safe or at a mitered corner. The screws should only penetrate the covering board by 1/4" - 3/8".

http://bertram31.com/proj/deck/instal.htm

Cam, I followed Capt Pats lead, not a single screw holding them down. West epoxy with hi density/micro fiber mix kerf the backside. I do have about 9 rod holders through bolted with backing plates. So I do have some mechanical fasteners. BH

Thanks guys! Looks like I was on the right track with my original mounting plan...unusual.

Cam,

What I see in the pic looks fine to me. As a matter of fact, I prefer it to many other versions.

Why, what's the new plan like, that demands a demolition of the existing set up?
In what extent is this existing covering board bothering you to proceed with your design?

Yannis,

The shape of the cap is completely new now. I remade the curb forming the center console shape and I have cut the transom down and added a splashwell for the outboard motor. I tried to modify the existing covering board to fit the new design, but it was too far off.

"Design - build - repeat" has been the theme of this project!

I would love to see your splash well design when you get a moment. Lots of nice used engines recently on THT.

http://www.thehulltruth.com/parts-forum ... shaft.html

http://www.thehulltruth.com/parts-forum ... otors.html

My recent experience with used motors and THT has convinced me not to fool around with used. I'll buy a new motor when the construction is complete. by that time, outboards will be powered by flux-capacitors that run on banana peels and beer!

A couple of older shots of the transom assembly from last fall. The cut out is just above the bump out. 10" jack plate is part of the mix. Second shot is the "transom module" with seating and a 20 gal live well. The splashwell is behind the live well. You were my inspiration for this change, but I wanted to keep a full transom on the boat. this is my "compromise". It is unique.






I'm moving the boat back north on Monday. Driveway building season has started...my wife will be torqued!

Looks great. Thank you for sharing.

Bob i have always admired the fantastic job you did on those covering boards.every rendenvous my son reminds me that we have to do our boat covering boards over again to include those cockpit side pieces and every year we take on another project on the interior.oh well maybe next year!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bob,

What did you do to the interior this winter?

Pete

peter i am racking my brain every time i touch this new project. i am building a cabinet to enclose the microwave and coffee pot.crazy angles to contour cabinet to upper windshield and round corner of windshield to side window area every piece is compound angles in mahogany for frame which is epoxy to F/G then will be cover with flame grain mahogany border frame with teak insert (like a raise panel in kitchen cabinet door). i have use this combination thru out cabin so i must continue the scheme.

this is a early photo but is illustrates the many curves and angles i am up against building a cabinet to fit mico,coffee maker.

Bob

Make your life easy, bag the coffee pot. Get a pour through Carafe. Boil the water, put the grinds in the top of the carafe and poor through. Makes much better coffee than the pot.

Or

Find a marina within walking distance of Dunkin Donuts.

that is a early photo taken while instaling windshield the boat has a Kurug one cup at a time so a fresh cup all the time-------------suits me and hot chocolate for grandchidren

Tony Meola wrote:Get a pour through Carafe. Boil the water,

Tony,

You may be right, but with your suggestion he now needs a boiler AND a carafe to find space for !

Starbucks Via Instant

No Fuss....No Muss

Yannis

Microwave works for that.

Real men drink cappuccino at sea....

https://www.nespresso.com/us/en/lattissima-touch

mike you won!!!!!! very,very impressive especially since my son and i both love our coffee when at sea.