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A couple of years ago there was a link posted to some type of plastic rudder bearings. My bearings are fine but are welded to the disimilar metal of the bronze rudders. The rudder port coming through the hull need's rebedding so I need to cut the bearings off unless someone has a silver bullet for this scenario. I have slathered these things repetedly with Cx over the years and its not making the difference.

Tef-Gel it and forget it.

UV

Doug,
Pat had a description of a plastic cap you can make to cover the bearing. But I've never seen a plastic bearing for that use.

Being bronze, with a little heat, the packing nut backed off and a brass 1" drift punch with a 3lb hammer, the rudder should come out of that steel bearing.

Make sure there is no set screw in the bearing collar into the rudder shaft and any locking collar has been removed or loosened.

When we got new bearings we had an option for a stainless bearing with set screws in a composite housing. 2 times the price of standard pillow block bearings. We went with standard expecting to need a little heat and a little hammering to get them off.
Lots of never seize on the initial setting. Coming off this fall for new rudders. We'll see if we did good.
If your interested I'll track down the info.

danny at high tide has the new rudder bearings.they are really nice....
gonna put-em on ,when i get to that point,,
phil

Buy the pillow block an 1/8" or 1/4" too large. Then go to your local bearing outlet an buy some $5 bronze sleeves/bushings that will fit between the rudder shaft and the steel pillow block. You can order the sleeves/bushings ANY dimension you need. When you have to change the bearing the bushing will be frozen to it and the rudder shaft will come right out. You can also buy the bushing with a hub, that way they will stay put in the bearing.

Try Motion Industries, http://www.motionindustries.com

Doug,
When I replaced my rudder shelf and fittings on my inboard B25 a few years ago I used a non-metallic rudder bearing (Type STD) from Tides Marine (www.tidesmarine.com). I've been really pleased with them. If you're worried about your shafts being too short to use with the STD's you can go with the Type LP (low profile) and that should work fine. I also used their drippless rudder ports (Type J) and they've been great. I can send you pictures of my installation if you'd like.

-Kel

Doug-

When I replaced mine 4 years ago, they were frozen to the shafts and had to be cut/pulled apart. I used regular bearings and have CX sprayed them a few times a year since, and when I pulled the rudders to replace with Cat. Pat's last winter, the rudders slid right out. Keep 'em CXed, and you'll be fine--although I really like Scot's method.

John

the ones i got from high tide are tefleon abs housing and stainless bearings

phil