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I had my transom painted with Awlgrip a couple of years ago and it's become very dirty, I think from exhaust. No matter how hard I scrub, I cannot get it clean. I was wondering if the painter did not seal the Awlgrip correctly? Also, any ideas on how to get it clean?

Thanks,

JR

have you tried a cleaner wax

Magic eraser and some simple green, then a good polish and wax to protect the paint and help denture the exhaust from sticking. The magic erasers are really magic. Joe

Paint it black......

mike ohlstein wrote:Paint it black......

An official pronouncement of the mean team.

"Paint it black" - Mean team dark and dreary but as you have noticed, Mike's boat looks fabulous with a deep shine. Clearly, he doesn't practice what he preaches! Mike, how is the Baron coming along?

Thanks for the cleaning/waxing suggestions. Is there not a sealer or clear coat of some sort to keep this from happening in the first place?

Also, any suggested brands of wax?

JR

The people that put out corrosion x have a finish product called regex.
Guys with planes use it and it got the nod of approval from this sandbox afew years ago...
But it's been afew years since I've heard anything about it ??
I've not used it myself so that's as far as my endorsement goes.
Hopefully someone else can chime in about regex.
The detailers at my marina use 3m products exclusively...it's hard to teach an ole dog new tricks.
Good luck.
I am curious to hear what works for you.
John

My boat is being painted by Holtz so I did a little research and found this at the awlgrip site.

http://www.awlgrip.com/MPYACMDatasheets ... eng+A4.pdf

yes john is correct rejex
I put on 3 coats at the beginning of the season
soot just washes off with a little soap and water

Awlgrip's Awlcare for cleaning then overcoated with Rejex for continued protection from grime works well for my Awlgrip painted transom and hull sides.

I have Chevy 350's with Holley carbs so my B28 is not eco friendly, try as I do my port side engine has always run too rich and soots up the transom and hullside on the port quarter unless I keep things fresh with the Awlcare and Rejex treatment every 6 months or so.

Thanks for all of the suggestions. I'm going to try them all and report back with the results. I took the kids out yesterday and while swimming, noticed that the port side was much dirtier than the starboard side. In the slip, I have a concert piling at the port stern that I use a bumper to protect the boat with. The bumper is old and dirty, and I'm wondering if that is not part of my problem. I'll try cleaning or replacing the bumper and see if that helps.

JR

jackryan wrote:The bumper is old and dirty, and I'm wondering if that is not part of my problem.

Dirty fenders/bumpers WILL transfer dirt to your boat... Which is why I use fender covers... Easy to take off and launder...

http://www.finishkare.com/sub_Big_White ... m_2_14.htm

I have been using Rejex for the last several years. Got tired of smears and wax not holding up. Then this year I moved over to a paste wax called Big White. It is a high temp wax.

The only reason for the switch was that in getting ready to wax the boat there was a 40 Sea Ray across from me and the shine on that hull was unbelievable. I have never had a Sea Ray out shine the 31. Started talking to the guy and he owned a body shop. It was his first year using it and he found it by accident. He had a customer come in and when he felt the paint, he said he never felt paint that smooth. Now this was a body guy, in the business for close to 30 years. Not a small shop either.

He was so taken by it, he ordered it online and waxed the shops tow truck. He said he said he never saw water bead like that before.

So I used it, first I put on Meguires fine cut cleaner then the big white. I used an orbital to put it on and take it off. A little goes a long way, and even though it is a paste, it went on and came off as easy as Rejex.

Now the test is how long it will hold up. To be continued.if we remember.

Actually, Finnish Kare (the maker of) Big White has a marine system too: http://www.finishkare.com/sub_Big_White ... m_2_14.htm

I know of it but I've never used it... Nor do I know anybody who has used it... I remember them from a car show event I once attended...

While we're on this subject, I've used Marine 31's line of products on my smaller boats and I've been pretty happy with those... Marine 31 is run (owned?) by Mike Phillips... The names might be familiar to watchers of Shipshape TV...

As a matter of fact, Marine 31 is holding a Boat Detailing Class on August 22nd and 23rd...

my cummins diesel do not smoke what so ever unless cold day start up in winter for two minutes or so. the paint on transom has a clear Imron coat on final step. no wax ,boat has never been waxed in 15 years just soap and water after each use.i feel the wax attracts dirt.

Tony M, is your hull finish gel coat or paint?

Original Gel Coat. 40 Years old.

Every Year, when I am done waxing the hull People ask me if it was just painted. The year I re-powered it, the owner of the year I normally winter in and have been in since 1982, asked me if it was just painted also, the year I put her back there for the winter.

My father purchased her new in 1975, and she always was put away waxed and put in the water waxed. Just starting to get some crazing up on the front of the bridge.

Navatech wrote:Actually, Finnish Kare (the maker of) Big White has a marine system too: http://www.finishkare.com/sub_Big_White ... m_2_14.htm

I know of it but I've never used it... Nor do I know anybody who has used it... I remember them from a car show event I once attended...

Nav

All I can say right now is that the depth of the shine is unbelievable and I did not use a polish first. My normal routine for the spring is to use a good cleaner, polish then wax or rejex. The polish is what usually gives you the depth of the shine, but I have to say, I am impressed so far. The water beading is better than rejex.

I want to see how she holds up, but I was tempted to put a coat of Rejex on top, but that experiment will be for next year if it holds up this year.

jackryan,
I used StarBrite Marine polish since I owned the boat in 1978, she was re-gel coated in 1994-5 from the rub rail to the waterline. I always had people ask when she was last painted. The last 20 years she was in the South Florida sun, still looked good when I sold her last year. Starbrite goes on wet, takes all the old chalking out when dry. I it is really chalked up you might need a 2nd coat. StarBrite has Teflon in it, comes in a blue plastic bottle, most West Marine Stores carry it.

Tony,

I just ordered the Finishkare system for my 25. I'll report after using it.

I'm a little slow getting into the water this year due to the Honey-Do list which was pretty extensive and a bit of a back problem. But hopefully I will begin the spring boating chores next week.

Joe

Joseph Fikentscher wrote:Tony,

I just ordered the Finishkare system for my 25. I'll report after using it.

I'm a little slow getting into the water this year due to the Honey-Do list which was pretty extensive and a bit of a back problem. But hopefully I will begin the spring boating chores next week.

Joe

Joe

I was really happy with the end result. Just be sure you use some type of cleaner first.

Tony, I bought all three parts to the process, compound, conitioner/sealer, and wax.

Joe

Let me know how those work out. Maybe I will catch you out on the bay some time.

I'd try chemicals first, couple products we use in the south that I used just this week to get exhaust soot off my varnished transom on an old mahogany chris craft, On /off and Roll Off did the job. Awl grip is not as acceptable to abrasives as is awlcraft, the gloss rises to the surface on awl grip and with aggressive mechanical abrasion will reach a dull finish, even though u got back to the original color,awlcraft is extremely compatible to mechanical abrasion and will come back to its original luster and color. Awl grip is tough and will take the chemical attack ,let them soak and use a soft rag to rub out,rinse and put on a coat of wax annually. I shy away from the stuff with Teflon in it as someday u will want to refinish that surface and may be plagued with the Teflon residual that is thought to remove

Other suggestion, after u get it degrease, scuff it up with 320 ,roll and tip awlbrite over it ,couple coats or spray awlcraft clear, both will give u a great shinny finish, u can wet sand with 1200 and finesse it to get out any imperfections such as dirt brush marks etc