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I need to redo the vertical panels that extend down from the inside of the engine boxes. They're about 52" by 20." I'm thinking of using 1/2" PVC board (maybe azek?). What do you think? The 1/2" PVC is pretty flexible, and I want the panels to stay straight. Can I attach some type of stiffener to the back of them? Maybe f'glass "L" from McMaster-carr?

Or should I just use 1/2" ply?

Hi John,

My only concern would be warp-age (sp?) due to radiant heat of the motors.
Maybe a reflective backing would help?
A spec sheet on the product your planning to use would have some heat resistance stats?
Maybe it's a non-issue?

I've only used PVC foam board for cockpit side panels (it's great for that), but recently have heard of it being used as a coring material in non structural parts??
I don't have enough experience using it to have much of an opinion about that.

Good luck
John

John,

PVC foam board might not be a good choice for your intended use. I'd stick with 1/2" plywood, with epoxy laminated Formica on both sides. I agree with John S on the heat issue... And would use sound proofing either way to further protect the interior surface from heat.

John/Cap. Patrick-

Thanks.

John

azek becomes VERY flexable when it gets warm. When out on full sun, it flexes a lot when i step in it... i would not use it in anywhere that gets hot.

here they are john absolutely perfect after 10 years .they are Azak brand no substitution ! they have sound down on back side and fit into grove on both ends,no screws,fasteners and are remove in a minute.

I used 1/2 starboard. Been there 4 years. No issues yet.

installed view, notice the way the hinged step keeps panel tight along with floorboard for bottom and 1" by 3" upright on bulkhead for front support,so it is supported on 3 sides and interlocks with engine cover when you lower it in place.perfect no vibration,light and easy to clean with spray- nine -------obviously never rot

3/4" Azak

another view john to show front vertical upright that holds panel from moving inwards notice the 3/4" space at bottom for panel to interlock with floorboard to keep panel tight towards engine.panel just pulls straight up to remove with engine cover open.

Thanks for all the pictures and replies. This place is great. Bob, I'm setting up my panels to work like yours--easy to pull up and out. I built them like that on the Anna E., but on Crows Nest you have to take out a whole bunch of screws to get them out. I have a sheet of azek, and I guess now I'll give it a try. I'll post up some pics. when I'm done, but Bob, it won't look like your engine compartment. Crows Nest has big, green, oil-slinging Detroits.

The stringers needed replacing. Made new ones out of 2x3 mahogany






Side panels were pretty bad:



Made new side panels out of azek (thought I'd try it. I already had a sheet):



I decided to redo the back bulkhead, and cut in new windows. I can let you know how NOT to do it. It took a while to get it sort of right:



Also working on the salon door.



When I finish the back bulkhead, the exterior will be pretty much done.

John
When 3/4 assed is good enough

John,

Looks like nice work to me, and I know who to call if I need to borrow some spring clamps!

Will the Azek board hold screws? I might want to use this material for as a backer for some hull liners.

Love your tag line!

Cam

azek holds SS self tapping screws quite well.all my electronics are mounted on it under the bridge including auto pilot pump.

john i had to make cabin door 1 1/2" thick in order to have full recess panel both front and back,window also has reveal inside and out.with 1 1/2" thick door you can use "real" SS door hinges (4).real strong with full casing around door for A/C and heat lost.

I finished this a couple of weeks ago. I made plywood patterns for the windows, but haven't gotten them yet and probably won't until I figure out the interior. That's coming along and I'll post some pics soon. Anyway, happy with the finished product. I can lift out the hatches, and the box/step thing I made for the aft hatch, and then with the engine boxes tilted up, I can lift out the side panels for access to more stuff. Thanks for the advice. And, yup, she needs a bath.

John-
That looks real nice to me. Nice job!
Best,
Stephan
...aiming for 3/4 assed but falling short...

Cam...

You asked above about if Azek holds screws well. I use it quite a bit for non structural applications (Thank you Captain Patrick!) and usually back up the screw fastenings with a bond of thickened epoxy. Be sure to pre bore the screw holes, otherwise it is so soft it will distort and spread outboard on both sides of the screw. I also roughen up the smooth surfaces with 180 grit paper so it can get some "tooth" for the epoxy to grab onto. If I am going to paint it so it looks pretty I seal the edges with epoxy and then sand them with 220 grit.