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Coosa Board
Posted: Sep 1st, '14, 08:53
by ed c.
I was reading some of the archives about coosa board. It sounds like that is the way to go for the cock pit deck. I would like a definitive answer about adding fiberglass to make the finished deck. Where can I buy this material? Is this stuff comparable in price to 3/4" marine plywood? By the way, my son John has taken over ownership of boat, for those that don't know the boat, the name is " Seaveyor". powered by 315 yanmars.
Re: Coosa Board
Posted: Sep 1st, '14, 18:22
by ed c.
I just found out the cost. Not a good deal, looks like marine plywood is the way to go.
Re: Coosa Board
Posted: Sep 1st, '14, 22:55
by Whaler1777
It is the way to go, do it once and its done..
Re: Coosa Board
Posted: Sep 2nd, '14, 17:33
by Marlin
If your add the coat of the epoxy and your time, u will be comparable in cost but have a lighter, rot resistant ,more durable deck,down in the southeast, many of the commercial boats have gone to coosa,it's tough stuff ,not easy to work with as far as the dreaded fiberglass itch, but it's manageable one u learn how to protect your self,I used it for bulkheads, deck stringers, sub decking under teak,headliner backer board,captain Pat turned me on to it
Re: Coosa Board
Posted: Sep 3rd, '14, 21:30
by Tony Meola
3/4 ply is just too heavy.
I had my deck repaired during my repower. The guy that did the repair did not listen to me. I had a half sheet of coosa, I told him to use it for the repair. He decided playwood was better. I curse him when ever I try and remove that section of the deck. God rest his sole. Good glass guy, but really old old school. He was taught by Henriques.
Re: Coosa Board
Posted: Sep 4th, '14, 09:13
by JimmyG
Ed, go Coosa or Penski light weight,strong easy to work with and won't rot and you can get it in Mays Landing
Re: Coosa Board
Posted: Sep 4th, '14, 20:47
by bob lico
Everything marlin said!coosa 26 good for 1000 years but God forbid you get it in your eyes
Re: Coosa Board
Posted: Sep 4th, '14, 21:16
by Goober
Don't waste ur time and cash with plywood . coosaw board is by far the best way to go ? I have built decks , repaired stringers , ribs u name it with the stuff . no. 26 will cure ur problem if properly used . built a hardtop with 1/2 in. And it's bad to the bone . don't waste the effort on wood.
Re: Coosa Board
Posted: Sep 5th, '14, 10:16
by Navatech
Question about this (Coosa Board) material: can you glue it with resin or epoxy?!...
Re: Coosa Board
Posted: Sep 5th, '14, 11:11
by bob lico
Yes either one will work but if a stress point mix the " granite mix" that is high density filer and silica in a 50/50 mix with epoxy
Re: Coosa Board
Posted: Sep 5th, '14, 19:32
by Marlin
I don't think I will ever use polyester resin again for anything that is an add on such as a bulkhead, deck stringers etc,epoxy is a glue that works extremely well with compatible but dissimilar material , all the custom guys in the south only use epoxy in their cold molding process? Once upon a time a milenium ago, I regularly had to repair customers chris craft cavalier plywood boat that had the factory optional fiberglass skin,once this skin of 4oz cloth would start to pull loose, u could peel it off the entire boat bottom, in sheets,if u adhere a layer of cloth to plywood with epoxy, u will have the plywood laminates separate before the epoxy fails. I think polyester or vinyl ester resins are best suited for the laid up process previously described as part of a monolithic build that is all done in one continuos lay up and is completed before the resin has cured as is how most FG boats r built,these resins r much less expensive than epoxy as well ,my 2cents