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Capt pat, in the past I've finisher teak cap rails, transoms, fighting chairs with numerous methods. Clear awlbrite eventually turns into a milky/blush finish,I have also applied several coats of Pettit sealer and 10 coats of captains varnish, let cure for a week then applied several coats of awlbrite,either by spray or roll and tip, either way producing good results, on the wahoo teak stuff, I followed a similar process but the final finish was 4coats of imron sprayed on in one setting, great results even today after 3years. I'm faced with a much grander project which includes a mezzanine as well and the broker claims that Spencer, Bayliss, F&S all follow a method that was adapted by Release fighting chairs which they claim holds up for 10 years, Mas or west system epoxy followed up by clear coats by a product developed for the automotive industry. I think I have read on your post of priming with a thinned out epoxy and following up with epithanes. Lots of ways and technology changes help toward longevity of the finish,maybe u or some one on the board has some experience on this topic,thx

That's the method that was recommended to me and I am trying....prep is just this side of torture, especially on complex parts like my helm seat.

My "schedule":

Wood = Iroko
Stain (optional) = water-based aniline dye. Do not use anything with glycol or the epoxy will not adhere correctly.
Epoxy - System Three Clear Coat (very low viscosity and clear finish). Seals and protects wood. 2 or 3 thin coats.
Sand progressively up to 320 grit. This is the torturous part that takes hours and hours to complete
Topcoat with Awlcraft or Imron to provide UV protection.

This is the recipe that Awlgrip recommends in their handbook.

Three years ago I built a sliding cabin door out of solid teak. After spending about $23.00 a board foot for rough teak I approached the finishing phase of the project with trepidation. To paraphrase John Cranston "I didn't want to ruin a $50.00 buzz with a $4.00 sandwich.".. I had been impressed by the varnish work the guy who shot the paint for my boat seemed to consistantly achieve, so I found out what he used, adding my own first coats.

For a base I used MAS Epoxy (West Systems epoxy is what I use now after MAS was bought by another company), diluted it about 20% with isopropyl alcohol and sprayed two coats, letting the first coat cure until just barely tacky before applying the second. Then I let the second coat cure for a day and sanded it with 220 grit paper.

I then applied about 15 consecutive coats of Bristol Varnish, which is what my painter uses. This is a two part acrylic/urethane varnish that is very easy to use. It has some unique properties, in that you can recoat without sanding as soon as the surface becomes firmly tacky (usually in about 1 1/2 hours) between coats, so you can apply several coats in a single day. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't go over 24 hours between them. If more than 24 hours passes between coats you should sand with 220 paper again. Since I had the door in my shop I was able to spray instead of brush, and was able to apply multiple coats over several warm days.

I planned on applying a new coat every year, but after two years on the boat the finish looks as good as the day I first applied it, so I will wait until the end of this summer and decide if another coat is needed.

I have pretty much standardized on two part coatings for two reasons. First, I believe they are more durable, but second, the base material does not skin over or start to cure in the partially used can. I have lost lots of paint and varnish over the years because during storage they started to solidify in the can.

Some people seem to think varnishing is a mysterious black art, but this simple procedure works very well and looks great.

Spraying is definitely easier!

Frank - What sort of sprayer/setup are you using to spray the epoxy and varnish. I would like to try this! thanks

Thx guys, the common thread was epoxy first, then the protective coatings

The clear coat product suggested is made by Glasurit, anyone heard of them,looks like a lot of automotive application,not many coats

The guy that did the paint 9 my boat has recently used the duratec products for clear finishing.

Not sure of all the details, but could probably find out.

Ian.

Cam...

I bought a small HVLP spray gun at Lowes (for less than $50.00) and tried to use it with the pancake compressor I used to run my nailgun when I trimmed out my house. The compressor was too small to use as HVLP, so I just opened up the gun settings until I was able to get a good spray pattern, then I was able to get a reasonable delivery. As much as I would like to own a true HVLP system I don't want to spend the money. If you go with a similar technique be sure to install a moisture seperator in the air line.

Are you still coming down to Wilmington to check on your boat project?

I haven't heard of Glasurit...looks like a BASF euro-spec paint line. "Glass-Your-it!"

Thanks, Frank. I have a small HVLP setup and I'll give it a try one of these days. We'll be down for labor day weekend.

Cam

Marlin-
I've enjoyed following the progress on your boat and your contributions to the board.
On a sailboat project I have we used the west system then awlbrite below decks where there is minimal UV exposure and have had good results without the fogging you describe. I'm assuming that you have been using the west system clear hardener in your applications.
Topsides we have used west system an then 8+ coats of Petit Captain's varnish. My use is New England seasonal and we renew (scuff, sand and 2+ top coats) the varnish every spring. I would like a multi season solution but have some concerns about too brittle a coating as the boat does move somewhat. Repairs are important too as there are always abrasions during the season and a quick varnish touch up with a preval sprayer or even just a brush is a welcome option. After 6 years I am seeing some yellowing of the mahogany and am aware that it will be a bigger job to strip the west system layer when that comes time. I am very pleased with an infrared heat paint stripper http://www.silentpaintremover.com for removing old varnish and found it effective on the west system as well with the caveat that it will singe the wood if I'm not careful.
Please do let us know what you decide on.
Stephan

Thx Stephan, never heard of an infrared stripper and your comments about stripping the epoxy really opened my tees,never thought about that aspect ,my comment about the blushing was awlbrite over bare teak,became milky real quick,I'm going to experiment first with the systems being described as well as trying to make repairs, googling infrared strippers in 1minute.

Use west with 207 hardener do at least 5 coats so you can sand it flat without sanding through to the wood. Wet Sand flat with 320, then use a 2 part urethane clear. Once prepped sometimes it's easier just to take it to a good body shop and have them spray it. Using varnish on a fighting chair or rocket launcher is sac religious

Done the west epoxy using the 105 product, let me do 3coats in a day, block sanded with 150 , happy with the fill of grain, teak color looks good, how long do I wait until I apply the clear, will be awlbrite and will go the 10 coats sprayed on as they recommend using the recommended sequence.thx

if you can sand the epoxy, the surface should be ready for the clear. I would continue sanding up through 320 grit before spraying to reduce/eliminate sand marks.