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Deck coatings

Posted: Feb 18th, '07, 10:21
by Ed Curry
The diamond pattern on my deck in the cockpit is showing its' age. I'm thinking about using a deck coating called Durabak but once I put this stuff on there will be no turning back. Anyone have any experience with this stuff. http://www.nonslipcoating.com/marine.htm[/url]

Posted: Feb 18th, '07, 10:45
by Peter
I've never used it but it looks rather industrial for a 31. Not yachty at all.
Kind of like the Rhino liner for pick up truck beds.

Just my opinion

deck coating

Posted: Feb 18th, '07, 11:23
by thereheis
theres a product called granitite and it's indrustructable....

Posted: Feb 19th, '07, 10:18
by Tommy
Ed,

I used Durabak for the deck of my '76 21' BW Outrage, and Peter is correct that it has an industrial flavor to it; but that stuff is durable and is definitely "non-skid". It is similar to the stuff used for truck bedliners, but the additive used to achieve the grainy texture is rubber from finely ground tires, so it's a little more forgiving on your bare feet than the products that use course sand. It came in several colors, and I used "desert tan" and it looks good in my old Whaler. You are also correct that once you start there is no turning back, but I found it fairly easy to apply. The one negative is a milky discoloration occured where I allowed a cooler to sit in one spot (under the leaning post) for a prolonged period with water trapped under it.

Tommy

Posted: Feb 19th, '07, 11:44
by Skipper Dick
Has anyone used Treadmaster non skid covering. Here is their web site. I got a sample some time ago, but still have not made a move at the stuff.

http://www.plastimousa.com/treadmaster.htm

Dick

Posted: Feb 19th, '07, 21:50
by guy
Has anyone ever tried the Gibco Flex-Mold . It is a fairly new product from a company out of Fort Worth ,Texas.The product allows you to duplicate any non -skid pattern by applying gel-coat ,then unrolling a precut pattern of this flexible mold into it. Then squeegee over the mold to make the impression.Of course all of the grinding and prep work must be done beforehand.They sent me about 50 pattern samples and full instructional literature.I want to do it to my B20.If your interested their e-mail is gibco@swbell.net

durabak

Posted: Feb 20th, '07, 16:35
by Bill Cuthbertson
Got a sample of the durabak without the non skid additive in it. Was planning on using in the anchor locker and painting the interior ceiling instead of putting a headliner or vinyl back in.

Posted: Feb 20th, '07, 17:10
by Raybo Marine NY
Has anyone ever tried the Gibco Flex-Mold . It is a fairly new product from a company out of Fort Worth ,Texas.The product allows you to duplicate any non -skid pattern by applying gel-coat ,then unrolling a precut pattern of this flexible mold into it. Then squeegee over the mold to make the impression.Of course all of the grinding and prep work must be done beforehand.They sent me about 50 pattern samples and full instructional literature.I want to do it to my B20.If your interested their e-mail is gibco@swbell.net
Those flex molds are VERY expensive and are not as easy as it would sound. You also need to practice with it a bit and develop your own tricks for it according to what you are putting it on.

They used to send that one page of instructions showing them repairing something the size of a quarter, not sure if they still include such detailed instructions or not.

Need some weights, something to distribute the weight, like I said- takes a acquired touch to get it right.

Posted: Feb 20th, '07, 19:14
by guy
Yea,I got the same instruction sheet ,now I know why the glass man came back with an open ended estimate expressing that using this product(Flex-Mold) was a crap shoot and that it may or may not work.What are our other alternatives if we really want the original diamond non-skid on our deck.This treadmaster product looks like it may trap moisture underneath.

Posted: Feb 20th, '07, 20:22
by Raybo Marine NY
just curious- did you happen to price out the flex mold?

remember you need big enough pieces if doing diamonds so that the repeating pattern looks correct on the boat after you trim it to fit.

so a gunwale would need a piece as wide as its widest points, cant trim it and piece it in.

I remember getting a piece to fix a new whaler and it was like $300-$400 for a 4' long piece, thats if my memory serves me correctly


in my opinion- forget the diamonds and go with something easily repaired later on.