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I'm starting to prep the topsides of Crows Nest for paint. I want to f'glass in the pilasters like in Capt. Patrick's "how-to" on sweeping them, but I'm not going to sweep them (too much work for me). I looked at the pics., and have two questions. First, what material do I use for glassing the pilasters in, and how many layers? Second, can I cut an access pie plate (maybe 4") into the inside of the pilaster to help in running wires when I have to, or will this weaken the pilaster too much?

John,
I believe most use a 5" hole-saw on the inside, and then install a round speaker.

In retrospect, I wish I had not glassed them in and gone to plan B, whatever that would have been. We struggled with pulling/pushing the the engine electronic wire harness/plug assy ,the fire buoy controls,audible/visual bilge pump control panal for 3 rule 2000 pumpsl new marine grade 12/24volt DC cabling , to a circuit breaker panal that managed everything u will want immediate access to from the bridge. My boat has hydraulic steering in addition to the hydraulic auto pilot pump in addition to the hydraulic outrigger hoses and wiring to control the 2electric controlled antennas. You can't predict what new device will become a necessity in the near future. I planned for 1year what was going to be up there, go to a boat show,read a post, look at new large boats and u need more room, I put poly jet string pull line in each pilaster(electricians stuff) for the future, can't even budge them now, finally recruited 2guys with long skinny arms ,one guy coming thru the top and one reaching from underneath to reposition some of the earlier placed stuff, it got all intertwined initially during the installation . The plugs on the electronic and electronic shifting wire assy can be large and not easily pulled. Nothing is forever as we r finding out as we modernize these old classics ,FYI

Marlin, knowing what you know now, would it have been feasible to modify the pilasters to make them wider? My thought is if you moved the inboard wall of the pilaster inward toward centerline even a 1/4", but 1/2" is better, you would have greatly increased the size of the opening at the base and given the cabling and wires, and the arms being forced down there working, a lot more breathing room. I suppose that there might be some sort of interference with the motor boxes but I'm not sure, just thinking.

As more and more electronics and hoses pass through the pilasters something like this might become a standard alteration.

I think u could widen it like u said,I don't think u could cut a hole and fill it with a speaker, they guts of the speaker would take up most of the depth, I would seriously consider the widening idea and mabe recess/glass in an inspection port /cover system ,fair everything out and paint it or increase the width, leave the opening profile kinda as is,maybe reduce to a rectangular shape,epoxy strips inside this opening to accept a flat inspection door/panel held in by 4 ss trim screws and an anticipate a gasket ,paint it out, one of the things I leaned from a couple senior experienced marine carpenters that r very fastidious , they mock ever thin up out of cheap wood, hot glue in place,make changes numerous times, finish the design, remove , spray with a rattle can, re hot glue ,get the customers approval,finish the job. I don't really see much is a strength reinforcing issue,maybe put a layer of 1708 on the inside when u r gluing in the retention strips. Maybe not even put any screws at all,just use the hook end hook and loop fastener material, my entire headliner system consist of 1/4" coosa covered with a weatherproof vinyl material held in place by this method,no fasteners and removable,I didn't invent this, my 10 year old Rybo uses this system of hook and loop without any issues, fyi