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Would those of you who have a windlass, post the make and model, and comment on whether you like it or not. Considering making it the next improvement to Island Dreamer. Tried anchoring at the drop off in Islamorada today with seas about 2-3, and without a bow rail it was a little hairy up there. Appreciate any recommendations.

I got the Lewmar Profish 1000. With all the short stops at holes and heads it is priceless. It pulls up a 22lb anchor with 20 feet of chain with no problem. I got the splice to chain just right on the first try and it has never missed a transition.
I may have mentioned before that I was reluctant to get one for years because of cost and added weight to the bow. I recall getting the last years model so it came in at around 860ish shipped....ebay. I feel like I shorted myself years of pleasure after I installed it. Should have done it sooner. Going up on the bow sucks like you said, especially 5 or 6 times a day.

Kevin

Absolutely no boat lacks a windlass in the Med.
Mine is a Lofrans (I forget the model) and so far it works fine. It is coupled with a 180 ft, 8 mm chain, no line.
There are two issues that you may have to pay attention to: First is the horizontal vs vertical type of windlass; I find that the horizontal is best, because it allows the chain to freefall into the chain compartment using a good length of its own weight and thus there are fewer (almost none) cases of chain twists and entanglements. It takes up more space on the deck but this is no issue for me.
Second, is the creation/angle of the pulpit. If you travel alone and therefore you cannot be at the helm and on the bow simultaneously, let alone that without a bow rail it can even be dangerous when its choppy and windy, the anchor should fall without initial manual aid. In other words when you push the button it should move by itself without someone having to push it free from the pulpit. For prolonged journeys be sure to always attach a line onto the chain a few feet away from the windlass and onto a cleat so as to take the strain off the windlass. A windlass requires periodical servicing and tlc so that you can guarantee it works when it's needed. Also be very careful of the gipsy/chain match. If you plan on a chain/line combination then your windlass should be equipped with a rope capstan as well. Good seas.

I have a Lighthouse 1501 on Shambala with a 33 lb stainless steel Bruce anchor. I absolutely love it with one caveat: I prefer a remote switch on the helm over the foot pedal on the deck of the bow. That assumes you are going to run all chain so you don't have to switch between a gypsy and a wildcat. I'll be putting the remote on the helm at some point in the near future.

http://www.lighthouse-mfg-usa.com/

Nice boat you have there John !
I have the main windlass controls up by the helm. I also have the pedals on the bow. No need for remotes.
The anchor control is by the helmsman; the bow controls assume someone is at the bow. Not always possible.
Bow controls are nice for fine tuning.

Like Kevin , I have the lewmarconnected to a stainless plow anchor that cost more than my first years tuition,with a cleat for attaching for long distance running, I have this anchor for emergency only as well as appearance, I have lost numerous anchors off the keys in the rocks/coral, we use grapple hook anchors (aluminum,) 25' chain, 250' 1/2linne ,with a wire tie attached to the base of the anchor keeping the secured, and allowing the chain attachment on the ring to slide to the base to pull the flukes loose vs hooking them, to allow the mate to pull it up in a 30 gallon garbage can, from the cockpit, we bottom fish almost daily in bottom conditions like this in the keys and the Bahamas , don't want to damage the coral or cut off anchor line,chain, anchor,easily could lose over 2000$ k if u have to cut the line, also use an anchor ball to help pop it loose, the aluminum anchor is neat in that the tines will tend to straighten out when caught, once it's in the boat, bend it back with a pipe wrench, in sandy conditions, u may not have to worry as MUCH

Marlin,
Why not use your windlass with the aluminum anchor and chain, instead of using the anchor ball to get the anchor up? I'm trying to get away from using the anchor ball system ...that Lewmar windlass looks like the ticket. We get kind of stressed out anchoring and re-anchoring during the night
and thought that pushing a button to drop the anchor might be a bit easier.
Many thanks.
John.

Kevin,
After you install the anchor windlass no matter what style or size, I would add a item that is almost always overlooked. A anchor wash down system. it doesn't have to be elaborate just functional. I just surveyed a 40' Cabo with the anchor chain going into a flat bottomed locker at the head of a queen berth in the forward stateroom, the flat bottomed anchor locker was directly behind the head of the queen island berth in the forward stateroom it had a drain hole overboard, but no deck hatch access just the hawse hole in the Lewmar windlass. It had remote control from the bridge, toe buttons on the forward deck, a FRP pulpit, nice aluminum bow rail and a galvanized plow anchor. But it smelled awful in the forward stateroom. There is nothing worse than the smell of decaying marine life from the anchor rode whether it is all chain (the worse) or all line, with no way to wash off the mud and bottom growth before it goes into the anchor locker.

The wash down system doesn't have that many parts and probably cost less than a constant supply of air freshener cans. You will need a remote toggle switch at the helm, 14-2 AWG boat cable wiring, a breaker or fuse, a T fitting on the head sea water intake or the closest water supply fitting either fresh or salt water, a demand pump with good pressure rating at least 3.5 gpm rated, 1/2" hose, hose clamps or heavy duty wire ties, a flat spray patterned open ended nozzle. Attach the nozzle to a bow rail upright or cross member, aim it so that it sprays directly onto the chain or line, flip the switch and it wash's the crap off your anchor rode.

I don't know how many boats I have surveyed over the years that had that un-mistakable smell of rotting marine life coming from the anchor locker area. The Cabo had all the bells and whistles but no way to wash off the chain and rode. Just a suggestion from a broken down one legged Yankee pirate. GO RED SOX they have won 6 in a row after loosing 10 in a row, It ain't over until it's over.
Pete Fallon

Thanks for the replies. Lokks like Lewmar is the brand of choice.

I don't have first hand experience, I am researching for my first like you, but I'd take a look at Good brand. From what I've read, and I've been looking pretty hard at this, Goods are bombproof, and are one of the few (if not the only) positive locking windlasses out there. Do a google search for reviews on them, you'll find a lot, and almost all of it positive.

From past experience Goode is good.

Pete,
I am not having any problems with the anchor locker. Maybe my sniffer is not working?
Doesn't fresh water rot things though where as salt water does not, or at least less?

Kevin, it's not the water, it's the muck.

Terry Frank wrote:From past experience Goode is good.

They certainly look good... I just wonder why their windlasses for bigger boats (like my 46'6") are all rope with no provision for chain?!...

I have the Good F850 with 300' rode and 30' of 5/16" chain.
its been operational for 13 years and no issues. Operates from the console. Goes into freefall after letting out 10' of rode and locks when reversing the motor. Unit ships with rode and chain. I use the windlass alot and very happy with its performance.

With most brands, the warping head (line) can be swapped out for a gypsy/wildcat (chain). My Lighthouse 1501 has both a warping head and a gypsy/wildcat. There are options for a double gypsy/wildcat and a double warping head. Check with the manufacturer. It wouldn't make sense that there would not be a gypsy option.

Lewmar concept 1 on the B31
Lewmar 700 on the B25

http://s1225.photobucket.com/user/manfo ... 2063391698

I think that the decision on whether vertical or horizontal is key.
I tend to believe that the horizontal type, although bulkier on deck, is more practical.
My windlass is a Lofrans Kobra 1000w/12v and so far it works without any issues.
My 2 eurocents !

JohnV8r wrote:With most brands, the warping head (line) can be swapped out for a gypsy/wildcat (chain). My Lighthouse 1501 has both a warping head and a gypsy/wildcat. There are options for a double gypsy/wildcat and a double warping head. Check with the manufacturer. It wouldn't make sense that there would not be a gypsy option.

I hear what you're saying but the thing is that the Good 500 CFDM (the model specified for 40'-60' boats) is specifically part of their "Rope Series"... I don't see how their design can accommodate a chain...



An additional wrinkle for me is that my boat is 32 volts... Not that many offerings in this voltage...

Newmar profish 1000 is Great!!!!

Had a powerwinch prior what POS that was I actually was happy when it went to shit!