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Here's the shower creation process, just before the shower mold with the attached drain are installed. And a glimpse of the electrical panel's functions-all solar driven.
Notice the reduced bathroom footprint (if there were no need to have a shower, then a shower curtain hanging over the "step" limit, hiding head and sink, would suffice).

I've always wanted to reduce the footprint of that bathroom. I was kicking around the idea of recessing the head into the interliner, kind of an outhouse look. I was thinking of a curved door as well. Alot of wasted space in the cabin that can be reclaimed. Good luck with the project.

I just got done ripping out the counter top and sink in mine as well. We have the same macerator toilet and I was pondering if it would fit up on the high part of the liner at an angle. Now I know it does based on your photos! That looks like a pretty nice set up you have going.

Ed,

I don't think you have the space necessary to go beyond (behind) the liner (if I understood correctly) and place the sink or the head in there.
And even if you do depthwise, you don't have the height clearance to be able to use them without ...serious injury !
If you don't need a shower, like you most probably don't, then a curtain (not even a door-curved or other) can hide the head and sink altogether.

Kevin,

The vertical liner with the plastic hatch were there when I purchased the boat. As the sink was in the middle of the counter, you can see the old hole of the drain above the head. Now that the head is up there, the hatch doesn't even open enough to be functional. So that whole thing has to go. I just couldn't open up more repair topics or I would never finish in time for the summer. Next season I plan to remove that liner altogether, and the new replacement will have a recess- probably with a plexi cover, above the head where its deeper, for the essentials and stuff. After that, the bathroom issue is "closed". What do you think?
PS: The angle I gave to the head is not so much for it to be able to fit-it fits anyway; it just makes the "adventure" more comfortable this way I think! And the cover top stops on the soft liner and not against the rear bulkhead, where it would probably make noise.

My wife asked me why the heck would I mount the toilet at an angle. I told her she was wider than the toilet and that she would not like being pressed up against the wall. Believe it or not she was cool with it.

You can render the hatch opening on the "step" smaller by 10-15 cm, without any significant effect on the accessibility below, and therefore be able to bring the head forward by the same distance. Before you mount the head on the step though, check with your wife whether she can sit and still touch the sole because the new height is perhaps too high for the admiral.

Yannis wrote:Before you mount the head on the step though, check with your wife whether she can sit and still touch the sole because the new height is perhaps too high for the admiral.

Worst case scenario: a little plastic step... Good also for the munchkins...

Cant wait to see it done.

Cant wait to see it done.

Me too! I don't know how it works in the US, but here the technician tells you that this or that will be ready "by Thursday"; you assume it is "next Thursday"; by next Thursday you realize you should have asked them also to specify the ... month !!

Navatech, better yet, a folding step on the vertical surface of the step. Teak and a little SS. Nice !

Yannis wrote:Navatech, better yet, a folding step on the vertical surface of the step. Teak and a little SS. Nice !

MUCH better idea... In my defense, I'm an engineer so I try to KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) everything...

Sure. Only because we're talking about Kevin's spouse we dropped a few ideas.
In my case for example, I touch floor fine(I'm 1.85), besides, there is an angled shower surface in front of me, so no room for steps. I'll put this wooden rack on top of the shower drain, you know almost like "the Dynasty type" !!

This week was carpenter's week. Not finished yet but starting to take shape.

Love the teak.

One suggestion your under the deck area is limited like mine was instead of a sump pump that gets clogged with crap I went with a Gulper diaphragm pump. I just added a drain elbow and brought it into the engine area for access then just turn it on and off when needed. Been in for 12 years now 0 problem and never had to clean it ever and we use it all summer long.

Good luck a nice head keeps the First mates happier If that is possible?

Dan thanks.

Gulper diaphragm pump ? I'll look it up.
Mind you that the bathroom sole is below sea level. Is this compatible?

Dan,

I got it.

Yes, I have one like this, just outside the bathroom, under the sole. It's the one marked "bilge pump" on my electric switchboard and it is only manual. It is destined to collect any (little) water that might find itself down there (shower overflow, emptied bottle by accident, cabin sole cleaning water, etc).

What you are suggesting is perfect IF this pump could be automatic, so that it functions ONLY if there is water. To switch it on, go for a shower, and then 10 minutes later come out and shut it off, simply means that I will run out of battery. My loads are all calculated to run with the solar panel and if I exceed them I will be forced to cut down on ice cubes. Cut down on shower time, yes, on ice, never !!!
Does anybody know if there exist such pumps that are automatic (switched on and off as a result of water presence, that is) ?

We had to support the shower rim on 2 sides.



Tubing not connected yet, not sealed either. Just placed to see how it fits.





One out of the three plexis in place.Still can't figure out what the door latch will look like. It has to open from both times simultaneously and there is not enough thickness to put a normal knob. Any suggestions welcome.

I used a perko on mine. You can pick the one that will fit best.

http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/H ... _Sets.html

Thanks Joe.
I'll try that too. I hoped to spare the expense.

Those little Perko knobs are pricey for what they are. The internal cams on mine broke so the knob did not turn the latch. Cheap pot metal internals! I luckily had a similar one laying around and I was able to rebuild the internals of the broken one. I don't know of any alternative mechanisms.
Your head door looks sweet. The cabin step is very tasteful as well. Wish I could do wood work like that.

Kevin, this is the galley progress. Drawers are boat cream, not ugly ciel film. Scissors for the sea urchins.

Yannis wrote:Dan,

I got it.

Yes, I have one like this, just outside the bathroom, under the sole. It's the one marked "bilge pump" on my electric switchboard and it is only manual. It is destined to collect any (little) water that might find itself down there (shower overflow, emptied bottle by accident, cabin sole cleaning water, etc).

What you are suggesting is perfect IF this pump could be automatic, so that it functions ONLY if there is water. To switch it on, go for a shower, and then 10 minutes later come out and shut it off, simply means that I will run out of battery. My loads are all calculated to run with the solar panel and if I exceed them I will be forced to cut down on ice cubes. Cut down on shower time, yes, on ice, never !!!
Does anybody know if there exist such pumps that are automatic (switched on and off as a result of water presence, that is) ?

I understand what your thinking have thought about it myself only thing I came up with is maybe using the bilge pump switch that sense water across two probes or there are water sensors for alarm systems and install it into the hose at a some point?
But then I just put a switch in the shower and turn on and off as needed specially since it is usually a navy shower. Plus it was the Kiss theory but if you ever do it please let me know.

Your shower pan looks great nice job.

http://www.mailspeedmarine.com/bilge-sa ... pump.bhtml

Dan, please tell me THIS is what we're looking for !!!
If it is I'm on it.