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Engine boxes and non-skid

Posted: Feb 19th, '14, 16:27
by John F.
Crows Nest's engine boxes are getting prepped (by me) for painting. I know the boxes (stock) on the Anna E. had a molded in non-skid. Crows Nest's boxes had the non-skid sanded and filled and painted, and the boxes were smooth--non non-skid.

When I paint the boxes, do I add non-skid for the tops, or leave them smooth? I'm thinking of adding non-skid. It seems like a smooth box could be a pretty easy way to slip. Just curious what folks have done and why.

Thanks.

Re: Engine boxes and non-skid

Posted: Feb 19th, '14, 17:21
by TailhookTom
My engine boxes were perfectly smooth and I never once slipped on them, no matter sea nor alcohol conditions....the same can not be said for Thuddd..... but that wasn't the lack of non-skid.

Tom

Re: Engine boxes and non-skid

Posted: Feb 19th, '14, 19:57
by bob lico
Tom I find that hard to believe however if true and they are smooth you are even more of a cat then I am. I run to the bridge when shark fishing to fire her up with mako running the non skid is essential !

Re: Engine boxes and non-skid

Posted: Feb 19th, '14, 20:17
by Pete Fallon
Faithful,
On the subject of engine boxes, my old 2 piece lids were always not skid surfaces, the new single piece boxes I got from Marlin Youker wee painted and had a very light sand finish on the flat surfaces. I re-sanded them down to smooth primed and then applied Imron Matterhorn White with a good roller and brush, I masked off the tops and used a 1 pint paint can as the radius after applying the second coat and before it dried (still wet) I used a Johnsons Baby Powder bottle with medium grit non-skid, you stand over the box and gently squeeze the bottle so the non skid comes out evenly, no clumps or high spots, allow it to dry completely then vacuum of any excess with the brush accessory fixture, add another coat of Imron and your finished. It looks great and like it was sprayed from a wide bore gun. I learned the baby powder trick from an old time fiberglass guy that worked for us, he had a lot of short cuts and tips that always came out looking great. I is a course grit finish but I'd rather have it rough than to be falling on my ass in rough seas. band aids are cheep, broken bones take a long time to heal and I always wear good boat shoes never barefoot, I've seen too many cut up feet from barefoot so called mates.
Pete Fallon

Re: Engine boxes and non-skid

Posted: Feb 19th, '14, 21:25
by bob lico
Quite a bit of wisdom spoken by Pete listen up brothers. I would non skids hundred times over then take a fall on my back/ spine.

Re: Engine boxes and non-skid

Posted: Feb 21st, '14, 14:07
by TailhookTom
Never once came close to slipping, Bob. And I routinely swung myself under the bellyband and onto the engine boxes to leader or gaff. I didn't have a ladder from the engine box up to the bridge -- had two steps built into the rear legs of the hardtop that went directly to the gunnel. So first step was onto the box, then swing around to port or startboard and up to the bridge. Maybe I'm part monkey.

Tom

Re: Engine boxes and non-skid

Posted: Feb 21st, '14, 14:36
by mike ohlstein
TailhookTom wrote: Maybe I'm part monkey.
Tom

I was gonna say.....

Re: Engine boxes and non-skid

Posted: Feb 21st, '14, 14:40
by PeterPalmieri
Every time I take the boat out I put the cushions on my engine box otherwise they take up the entire cabin. The cushions cover the engine box so I'm always stepping on the cushion. I'd likely go with a smooth finish for easier clean up when the time comes.

Pete

Re: Engine boxes and non-skid

Posted: Feb 21st, '14, 21:28
by bob lico
I also have cushions on boxes and no ladder I use step on gin pole .i left the cushions I foot short on edge of box to make 1st step .the non skid helps holds cushions in place as well as added air space.i never fell yet but there always a fist time .what the hell it don't cost nothing!

Re: Engine boxes and non-skid

Posted: Feb 22nd, '14, 08:38
by John F.
Thanks for all the replies.