bertram31.com

Hey Mike,

I like those strainers. Do you have a source for those?

With regard to the original post, anchoring anything off the stern in a large sea state which forces your stern into the sea goes against everything I've ever been taught about safe boating. And it really sucks to fish around that crap hanging out the back of the boat.

With that said, if your life and boat insurance is paid up and you truly intend to do this you should be aware that the odds of drowning your inboards are significantly increased and idling both engines the whole time is highly advisable. Creating new highlift exhaust risers and adding significant surge tubes is highly advisable as well perhaps even adding check valves into the system if you plan to shut one or both engines off at any time.

Having fished our 31 only in the northeast I can say there has never been a time when we have had water come over the transom, this includes some rather aggressive finishing moves on billfish.

Also please define the actual sea state you plan to fish in. Wave height is one thing but there is a big difference in 8ft at 8 seconds and 8ft at 30 seconds. And for the record you may want to drift that B31 low center of gravity deep vee bottom, they sit like duck with big heavy diesels

Good Luck

Good luck

"I would have run up a beach (nice soft sand) instead (assuming that was an option). "


wood hulled, keeled, downeast style commercial fishing boat. the ramp is adjacent the marina with a large fork and travel lift. i think the problem with a night beaching is running aground before you can get her well up on the beach. you wont sink but retrieval can be a bitch.......if not a salvage operation. i once ran an injured boat into waiting slings but my first instinct was to do exactly that.......run it up on the beach.

mike ohlstein wrote:I have three way valves on both engines and the gen set.



I also keep 25' of 1.5" hose with a barb X barb fitting already in one end in case I need to vacuum water from somewhere other than mid ship, or my own ship.

The valves make winterization a breeze.

Learn something new every day like that valve

Carl wrote:
As your putting a swim platform on anyway...ever consider making it buoyant. Not so much under water like the transom mounts for outboards...but more at and above the water line to add additional lift as the stern encounters a wave. Guess it's something that can be played with after you know were you are...strap flotation to platform and test with and without in similar conditions

Carl actually i took the step off but i could put one in with hinges and lower it when I'm not using the shark sling i like the idea of the extra lift as i said before on my 24' skip jack it made a difference.
You know i guess i could drop the step and lower the shark sling on the step for travelling.
lots of experimenting to do.

JP Dalik wrote:With regard to the original post, anchoring anything off the stern in a large sea state which forces your stern into the sea goes against everything I've ever been taught about safe boating. And it really sucks to fish around that crap hanging out the back of the boat.

With that said, if your life and boat insurance is paid up and you truly intend to do this you should be aware that the odds of drowning your inboards are significantly increased and idling both engines the whole time is highly advisable. Creating new highlift exhaust risers and adding significant surge tubes is highly advisable as well perhaps even adding check valves into the system if you plan to shut one or both engines off at any time.

Having fished our 31 only in the northeast I can say there has never been a time when we have had water come over the transom, this includes some rather aggressive finishing moves on billfish.

Also please define the actual sea state you plan to fish in. Wave height is one thing but there is a big difference in 8ft at 8 seconds and 8ft at 30 seconds. And for the record you may want to drift that B31 low center of gravity deep vee bottom, they sit like duck with big heavy diesels

Good Luck

Good luck

Thank you JP ill be carefull

Navatech wrote:Hey Mike,

I like those strainers. Do you have a source for those?

West Marine

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... WhTtoJxdhc

Keith.....

http://www.mcmaster.com/#three-way-ball-valves/=mail1v

mike ohlstein wrote:Keith.....

http://www.mcmaster.com/#three-way-ball-valves/=mail1v

Right On!

i've helped mike winterize the boat a bunch of times....the valves work great and are super easy to install.

randall wrote:i've helped mike winterize the boat a bunch of times....the valves work great and are super easy to install.

I'm just about to that point installing the mechanical connections next week.

I looked at the price of the valves and thought they were expensive then the light went on, I can use these for my trailer wash down with a long hose.

Bob..nice air vents.. .Keith ..the swim step slapping the wave, noise bother you or your prey?.. I have a concern on the nights when seabass fishing.constant slapp on some nights.. The skippy has a better catch ratio & no SS.. or maybe the Son is just getting better than the oldman..... lol
Wayne

The stainless valves are steep, but the bronze valves are $85. The pipe to hose adapters are about $35. With three barb adapters, a length of hose, and a strainer, you have a pretty decent water vacuum for under $250.

Wayne that's a old photo with old cockpit new one is has awesome space accessible thru hatches.i wish you were on this coast we have some drinks and I build you a set brother.

http://youtu.be/YqGT8ezjHsY" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://youtu.be/YqGT8ezjHsY

That video has a "private" setting...

Navatech wrote: That video has a "private" setting...

Thank you i made it public.

Usually when i up load a video it's public automatically but the have recently made some changes guess that's one of them.

Ironman wrote:Bob..nice air vents.. .Keith ..the swim step slapping the wave, noise bother you or your prey?.. I have a concern on the nights when seabass fishing.constant slapp on some nights.. The skippy has a better catch ratio & no SS.. or maybe the Son is just getting better than the oldman..... lol
Wayne

See what you did taught him to much now he's forcing you in the back round dame kids ha ha.

The swim step in heavy seas with out holes to maximise lift did shutter the skippy pretty good and it did bothered me when i was trying to rest but everything bothers me when i'm beat from working all week the stay up all night especially getting beat up by seas and big fish heck every little squeak is annoying lol.

Never realised SS for swim step not just stainless steel interesting.

I could see the slapping being a problem with the ghost in a big swell but as far as big game predators the more noise and commotion the better and light.

Maybe a good design of holes for slap shutter reduction but if lift is the goal ?


When i use to distribute the mako magnet when it was being developed i realised it was drowned out by the generator and the gen and lights are 360 not directional like chum or trolling.

The light helps the bait see the plankton and builds the food web.

You might have heard me talk about bioluminescence hunting, it's one of the best tool in the box for targeting predators i would share with anyone interested.

Makes it possible to target makos at night visually at speeds up to 30 knots.


Ok i have to go to a job and get under the motors and start grinding LOVE IT"

Here's an old picture from about 20 years ago of a 3/4" acrylic solid swim step 7'-6" x 24" with temporary Kodiak 27 gallon bait tank and SS kicker bracket.

Released thousands of makos and threshers on that boat so much fun

Bob H. wrote:Keith, Deck on my 31 has a 6" step up at the engine boxes, that should keep some of a monster wave from making a b line into the cabin, if the pit gets flooded I can put her in gear and open the tuna gate and dump a few thousand gallons pretty quick. Hope I never have to find out..BH

step up is a tripping hazzard, looking good

Keith..yupthe kid is teachin me now.. lol & rightly so.. he got the 68 lber in Newport last year biggest all time for here... . then got the first & biggest thyis year so far 64#..Im kinda livin it thru him..
Bob..I now see the difference..deck sure looks good. I like the two handledfish boxes also..
yeah brother ..we d have some good times..
Wayne

Mo Poe Gress













Coming soon

I did not want to start another thread so i thought i would add a few pictures here and another up date mainly just wanted to interact.

I regrouped this morning and cleaned everything up and rinsed down a lot of the grind ed glass so i can get in and bolt down the motor beds and start working on the mechanical.

I milled down this 4x4 for the transome to use as a cleat for the floor joist i will biaxel it in a few hours from now and paint all the stringer floor joist before installation.

Then work on the exhaust and mechanical.

I realised i have the rudder bar in upside down or does it matter besides possible grease dripping from the ball joints ?

Also one of my shafts is kind of tight takes two hands to rotate it when it's unbolted from the trans coupler and the other spines real easy and has lateral play in the strut, school me please the more information the better much appreciated gentlemen.

Better get a few hours shut eye.

This is pretty simple to solve Keep ur but on the hard when it's blowing so hard that u can't be comfortable and no 8/10 s ain't comfortable ur scrotum is way too big but it's ur thing ,,so go for it and be safe BR Goober

Hi Bob, where did you get that deck for your Bahia Mar?

Keith Poe wrote:Also one of my shafts is kind of tight takes two hands to rotate it when it's unbolted from the trans coupler and the other spines real easy and has lateral play in the strut, school me please the more information the better much appreciated gentlemen.

Loose cutlass (strut) bearing could be the result of regular wear & tear but it could also indicate a misaligned or non straight shaft. Unless you know how to align the engine, gearbox and shaft I'd consult a professional. Aligning a boat's drive train is a tricky thing...

Navatech wrote: Loose cutlass (strut) bearing could be the result of regular wear & tear but it could also indicate a misaligned or non straight shaft. Unless you know how to align the engine, gearbox and shaft I'd consult a professional. Aligning a boat's drive train is a tricky thing...

Thank you

I belive I have it dialed in time will tell.

The no choice mechanic

Craig G, I got the deck kit from Ocean Innovations on Long Island, Tom Kellenbeck. Not sure if he is still in business that was many moons ago. Very well made, nidacore.BH