bertram31.com

Cam - I pull her outside when the grinder comes out.

Rod - she is right hand steer. Have thought about changing her to left, but not sure if you can easily get LH throttle and shift.

Ian.

I guess it depends on what controls you are going with, i have not done any research on that aspect as of yet.

Been slow around here... Finally have the stringers fully tabbed in place. Final glass layup. 2 layers of 1708 on each side of the stringers before the went into the hull, then 2 layers of 1708 tabbing.





Also glassed 1 layer of 1808 on the coosa for the sole. This will be the underside. The Bertram in the background is good encouragement.

I hopped back into things.

Finished getting ready to bed the small center stringer, bulkhead and tank platform.

Here are a few pictures:

Cross section of the stringer that I notched to accept the forward sole. 3/4" Coosa with 2 layers of 1708 plus 2 additional layers of 1708 for tabbing.


Forward bulkhead. 1 layer of 1808 and 1 of 1708 on each side. Will have same tabbing as the stringers.



Fuel tank compartment. I think I can get upwards of 30 gallons. Should be enough for a 14 boat with 70ish HP outboard. Has a layer of 1808 on the bottom, will have the same on top and then tabbed into the stringers and hull bottom.


Enjoy.

Ian.

Glad to see you are still making progress!

A bit more progress.

The center stringer is fully glassed. Tabbed with 2 layers of 1708 with increasing overlap onto hull. Hull bottom now in this area has the original hull layup plus additional layers of tabbing from the stringers.




Even though I will never see this again, I coated the under the tank bed with SW TileClad.



Also bonded the tank floor in place. Plan on glassing and painting with the SW Tile Clad today as well.


Ian.

Keep at it Ian, the itch eventually goes away. Looking good.

Tank bed is basically complete.



The two inner strakes were also filled and glassed over.



It is interesting to be one's worst critic. I sometimes question the end result of a glass lay up if a small air pocket appears. Then I look back at some pictures from early in the build and see what came out of the factory and am usually fairly pleased with myself.

Flipped the hull last night to work on the bottom easier. Neighbor came over with his little John Deere and I had my little Yanmar.







Nice Flare!


Ian.

She looks great. You do beautiful work.

Thanks John. It is a good escape. Lots of fun... even if I get itchy every once in a while.

Ian.

That looks like fun!

Wouldn't want to do this with a B20, let alone your 25. But it was pretty uneventful with the 14.

What is the recommended product to repair the gouges, chips on strakes, etc on the hull bottom prior to the barrier coat?

Looking for something easy to use/mix and relatively tough (trailer bunks, trailer rollers).

Is it as simple as:



Ian.

That should work, but you can make the same thing from epoxy and save buying another product. Are you using any epoxy barrier coat?

Thus far, everything I have done is Vinyl Ester. I will be using the Interlux 2000 barrier coat.

Updates:

Bottom paint is virtually all removed. Hit the entire bottom with a speed file and was pleased with how straight everything was.




There was a pretty poor repair from previous damage on a strake that I completely ground out. Ended up having to grind through in two spots to get all of the suspect laminate removed.




Glassed over with 3 layers of 1708 and ground back flush. Will also glass from inside after I flip the boat back over.




Interprotect 2000e arrived. Hope to get going on that in the next week.

Ian.

Long over due update.

Finished the hull bottom and turned her over and placed back on the trailer.

Hull bottom had its' fair share of gouges, nicks and pin holes.





Several rounds of filler and sanding:











Interlux 2000 barrier coat:





Enjoy!

Ian.

Read and re-read the specifications on transom height for outboards, Measured twice and finally cut down the transom for an outboard.





Made a template for the forward floor, then fitted a Coosa floor backed with 1 layer of 1808, bonded and finally glassed into place.







Added two reinforcement points for the stern eyes.



And finally cut and glassed in two transom knees.





Dry fitting 2 layers of 1708.




Ian.

Ian

Any special reason as to why you did not go with an outboard bracket? Only thinking keeping water out of the back of the boat. Not sure I really like brackets in a bad following sea. Always afraid of swamping the engines with a wave.

Hi Tony -

I messed around with the idea of a bracket, but couldn't come to terms with a bracket on a 14 foot boat. Not saying that it couldn't be done, but to bolt something on that was made for something 20 foot plus seemed like it would look out of place.

I also do not like the thought of a swamped boat and am planning on building an engine well similar to this picture from Raybo on a Bertram 20.





Ian.

Ian

If the well is built right it should keep the water out. Like I said, not sure I am a fan of brackets in a bad following sea.

Nice work, Ian!

Latest update:

The sole (3/4" Bluewater 26 Coosa) has been fitted and has 1 layer of 1808 on the bottom.





Everything under the sole has been coated with Sherwin Williams Tile Clad. A nice clean, bright epoxy paint designed for water tanks interiors.



Finally was able to take time and get fuel tank ordered. Ended up being 26 gallons. Should provide enough fuel for this 14' Hull with a 70ish HP outboard.



Enjoy.

Ian.

Also made a template for the splashwell:







Not sure I am happy yet with the overall dimensions.

Ian.

Is your Bertram getting jealous?

Do you need a splashwell? Takes up a lot of room in a small boat and requires lots of work to fair.

Nautilus (Bertram 20) likes her baby sister.

Ian, I envy your patience!

Two things: Make sure that the hydraulic arm that you (may) put inside the splashwell, has enough room to go all the way left and right. Same if you put pulleys.
Second, you could perhaps make two seats on either side of the splashwell, that could double as lockers or even coolers. Look into grady-whites.

Congratulations for the nice work.

this winter we extended the splashwell on the 20, owner wanted to be able to fully trim it
Instead of making the entire splashwell larger I got the idea after paying attention to various boats that have come through the shop when I realized a lot of outboard boats have 2 sometimes 3 stage splashwells. this way you can trim but not have this HUGE splashwell that takes away from the look of the boat.
if you need any measurements let me know, this particular boat has a 60 degree v-6

Raybo - Can you elaborate more on a 2/3 stage splashwell?

If my measurements are correct, I will be able to fully trim a Yamaha F70 or an Etec 75.

Thanks in advance.

Ian.

I'll try to remember to get some pictures tomorrow, your engine choices are small if you decide it's worth the work you could end up a smaller splashwell and still get full tilt

i posted a picture but only half showed up, try this link

https://imgur.com/cMwFiX7

the mod to the 20 splashwell is done, motor achieves full tilt without ruining the boat with a huge splashwell

links because I think only half the picture will show up

https://imgur.com/dDjb9gl
https://imgur.com/WNSsSEf
https://imgur.com/VsfJsRU

Your images are too big. Resize them and you can make them fit.

Ian,
I am glad to see that you extended the two inboard stringers all the way to the transom. When we built the 34" Legend back in 1999 the 2 hollow stringers were 4" wide by a little higher than the fuel tank tops. The reason was that the 2 big outboards (300hp) would push against the stringers which ran the length of the hull, not just the transom spreading the force all the way along the bottom, the transom was 2-1/2" high density ceramic coring. There was also a short stringer on the center line that added additional strength for a total of 5 hollow 1708 & 1808 layered stringers. Wiring raceways (4"x4") were at the top of the port and starboard stringers. Your doing a wonderful job on the Hunt's. Did you friend ever finish the 25 Bahia Mar (Blue Hull) that I surveyed back in 2001 in Ft Lauderdale, it had twin 165 Mercruiser I/O's.
Happy Holiday's.
Pete Fallon

Happy New Year everyone!

Pete - Thanks for the kind words. I am just messing around, but try to educate myself as much as possible before doing any work. The 25 Bahia Mar was completely redone. John Pepperal was the buyer. I actually saw the boat this summer. She was repowered with twin 3.0s. The repower was the only regret. In hindsight, he wishes he would have gone with a single V8.

The hunt project will be back on in a few months once the snow melts.

Ian.

Progress still continues on the Hunt 14.

The fuel tank is completely installed, grounding wire for tank, fuel fill and sender is complete.



Cockpit sole finished. Access holes for fuel fill and vent, sender and bilge pump are cut out.



The fuel fill will be on the port side. Fill hose will be hidden beneath a bench style seat. I made a quick mold and pull this part from it.



Sole is bonded in place and foam outboard of the stringers is complete.



Lifted the bow high to have the foam flow to the stern and expand forward.





Felt good to get a bit accomplished.

Ian.

Lots of great progress Ian! That Tank looks huge - what are the dimensions? I'm just fabricating mine now and need to finalize.

I can't seem to find your email. Message me and I will send a copy of the quote.

Rough Dimensions:

75" Long
20" Wide
6 1/4" tall forward
3 1/2" tall aft

26 US Gallons

Looking good Ian. Hope you bring that 20 up to Lake Erie this summer.

Thanks Ian. Could the taller front than back be a bit of an issue if your fill is at the rear? I assume your vent is in the front? I think mine will fill from the front, and the tank will be deeper forward than aft. We are putting things back together on my 14, I will have some pictures fairly soon. Going with a flat floor the whole way, had to sister the stringers to take the V6 working to get her all finished by the end of July, a bit ambitious perhaps, but either way I'm heading for the lake at the end of June!

Both fill and vent arein the front.

If you have a completely flat floor (up to chine vs strake) you should have no issues with more depth than I have.

What engine are you putting on?

Motor is the Volvo 4.2 liter at 200 hp with the duoprop. It's a lot of engine, but the smallest that I could find with the fuel injection and variable valve timing etc...

Damn...

That is enough engine for a Bertram 20.

My B20 with Volvo 4.3 225 hp will push the Bertram to 50 mph.

No desire to convert to outboard?

I really thought about it, but wanted the weight distribution and configuration of the original and didn't want to do a conversion. When I bought it, there was an OB on a pod. Which was not well designed. Who knows, if this doesn't work, I may still have to do that!

Rod - I am in Anchorage right now. Doing an Alaskan cruise ending in Vancouver on the 15th.

Don't think we have enough time, but would have been great to meet in person.

Ian.

Let me know! Maybe we could grab a bite at the airport. Email me rod@urbanimpact.com or call at (604) 830-0994

After a great cruise in Alaska (Sorry we couldn't meet up Rod. Went straight from ship to airport and plane.) got a bit more done on the Hunt.

Cockpit sole is complete glassed in.











Rear bench seat is mocked up. The seat back / forward engine well is glassed in place.





Enjoy!

Ian.

Ian, in those pictures I just noticed that the front dashboard has a notch in it. Mine does not, it is straight across, mine is also left hand steer. My project is in a similar state as yours, transom done, floor is back in stringers reinforced, I installed aluminum angle on top of the stringers and under the floor to provide backing for the seat mounts. The motor has arrived and is awaiting installation. We will install the motor before going nuts on finishing the boat just in case the balance is not good. I am somewhat concerned about the weight of the package that I bought and how it will effect the trim.

Pictures?

You can email them if prefered.