1968 Hatteras 34 project

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micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

Both engines are in place, fabricated the 4 aft mounts for the engines, and installed 5" x 5" x 3/8" angle on the stringers. Need to buy a 1" drill bit to drill the mounts for the isolators. Work for next weekend is make the holes, install the back isolators, align the engines and drill and tap do leave them in place.

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micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

Not as much progress today as I would've liked. Had to remake the 4 back mounts as the 8 degree angle of the transmission didn't work with the ones I had made. Was only able to align 1 engine. Its in place, aligned but still need to bolt down the isolators. Tomorrow's plan, align the other engine and bolt down the 4 isolators in each engine.

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micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

Few things done today. Installed the back mounts on the second motor today, bolted down both engines, aligned the engine and painted the new stringers with a rust inhibitor. Tomorrow I'll paint the stringer with liquid galvanized paint.

QUESTION!!! As you can see, the front isolators are about 3/4 on top of the stringers and 1/4 on the air, is this ok or should I weld a plate underneath them?? Stringers are too far apart as the detroits were wider.

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micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

Decided to weld the iron angle on the front mounts. Also painted the stringers with liquid galvanized.

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Carl
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by Carl »

I was going to say it should be fine without, but adding cannot hurt...I'd add. But you did already...nice, looks great, you'll be splashing any day now.
micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

Painted the engine room today as on monday the plan is raw water hose, fuel lines and electrical. Exhaust hose is ordered but hasn't arrived.

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micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

Installed the raw water hoses and fuel hoses today. Plan for tomorrow is battery cables for the engines.

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micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

Very productive day today. Was able to install the battery cables for the engines, made the engine harnesses (still need to make them pretty and they will not be hanging, they will be attached to the floor frame), connected all the fuel lines, installed the water line for the PSS and installed both transmission cables. Ordered the throttle cables as WM didn't have them. Only thing needed to finish the engine room is the oil lines for the gauges as they will be mechanical and the exhaust hose to arrive so that I can install the mufflers and then I can start framing.

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Carl
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by Carl »

her belly is looking full!

Keep it going and you'll be enjoying her before you know it.
micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

Carl wrote:her belly is looking full!

Keep it going and you'll be enjoying her before you know it.
All missing parts should be here on tuesday afternoon so m plan is to install everything on wednesday, on tuesday I plan to install the frame for the floor so if everything goes according to plan I should be almost finished on the inside next week.
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Carl
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by Carl »

On the raw water intake, what is the purpose of the bronze hose fittings? I'd say reducer, but hose seems to be the same size, a place to install raw water sensor.


Nice how you keep pushing forward.
micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

Its a reducer, thru hull is 2", water pump is 1.75"
micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

Bilge is almost ready, today installed both throttle cables and wrapped the engine harnesses. Only 2 things left to do is the oil lines for the gauges (tomorrow) and the exhaust hose (wednesday). Tomorrow I also plan to do the frame for the salon floor.

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micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

Frame is almost complete, just need to add some aluminum to the sides and to the front. Exhaust hose arrived today so will install that tomorrow also.

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micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

Frame is done!! Also connected the mufflers to the exhaust ports but couldn't connect them to the engines as I need some fiberglass elbows.

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incoming
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by incoming »

Inspiring work. Can’t wait to see her splashed. With your skill set, ever thought of doing this stuff for a living? Or would that ruin the fun of it?
1985 Bertram 38 / 2002 6CTA 480CE's
micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

incoming wrote:Inspiring work. Can’t wait to see her splashed. With your skill set, ever thought of doing this stuff for a living? Or would that ruin the fun of it?
That would ruin the fun of it and people here in PR don't want to pay for good work and good work costs money. This is the 6th boat I've overhauled, First was a Shamrock 20, whaler 13, Mako 25, Concorde 35, Hatteras 43 dc (just the interior) and now this one.
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Tommy
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by Tommy »

Micky, thank you for making the effort to post the pictures and describe the process of your rebuild. Like many others on this Board, I thoroughly enjoy following your progress and learning from you. Those Hatteras Yachts were built two hours from my home, and I’ve toured the plant. Their hull #1 was Knit Wits, a 41’ SF that was launched in 1959; a year before Richard Bertram built his wooden 31’ Moppie, and about 2 years before the introduction of fiberglass hull # 1, Glass Moppie.
micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

VERY productive day today. Started the day connecting the mufflers to the stbd engine (the other 2 fiberglass elbows arrive tomorrow). After that, installed the coolant reservoir canisters for the engines, the throttle cable ends for both engines and removed 4 old senders and replaced them with bronze plugs. Also installed a 1.25" pvc pipe in the engine room to pass the steering hydraulic lines and the cable for the stern nav light. Made the hatch for the generator and put some wood on top of the engines so that there is some surface to walk while I make the hatches (old ones don't fit). STBD hatch will go from the back wall to the front wall (see pic with red outline) and will have hinges to the side. PORT hatch will be from the back wall to the front of the engine. Finally installed the back wall (still need to fiberglass it on all sides).

Plan for tomorrow is the other muffler, install the ladder to go in/out of the engine room and clean everything.

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micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

More progress today, installed the other muffler and made the engine hatches, except the middle one (ran out of material). Installed hinges on the stbd hatch.

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micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

Few things done today, installed the hoses for the oil pressure gauges, installed the ladder to go into the engine room, installed the lights for the engine room, made the center hatch that was missing and another small things. Tomorrow I'll clean the engine room completely and need to remove the port side window as its leaking somewhere, I removed and resealed them back in march so don't know what happened.

Pics tomorrow. Was too tired today.
micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

Re-sealed the port window today, also finished the engine room lights installation. Next week I'll fiberglass the seam of the back wall and fair everything. Getting closer to paint.

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34Hatt
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by 34Hatt »

Moving along nice.

What height do you have from water line to turbo because in the 34' C it is marginal with out risers that was why I added surge tubes and flappers I copied from another 34 that spent a lot of time offshore and it was a easy addition.

Keep at it your getting close to the real enjoyment.

Dan
Dan
1967 Hatteras
34C

EOTL II Rebuild Web Page
micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

Today I fiberglassed the back wall to the hull. Sanding the awlfair tomorrow and adding some fiberglass on the inside and should be done.

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micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

34Hatt wrote:Moving along nice.

What height do you have from water line to turbo because in the 34' C it is marginal with out risers that was why I added surge tubes and flappers I copied from another 34 that spent a lot of time offshore and it was a easy addition.

Keep at it your getting close to the real enjoyment.

Dan
Dan, there is not a lot of height, I was planning on adding the flappers before launching.
micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

Not much done today as it has been raining all day. Was able to sand the awlfair and applied the 2nd coat. Also so a small crack on the port back corner, hit it with a hammer and a chunk of fairing compound came out flying so out came the 1708. Will fair tomorrow.

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Tommy
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by Tommy »

You are a machine, Mickey; a very talented machine! Glad the weak spot on the transom radius came to light now as opposed to after she is all painted up. Keep up the great progress.
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Carl
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by Carl »

I hate to open a can of worms...but maybe its time to start tapping or sounding the hull from stem to stern looking for past Quick Fixes. Aside from having it screw up the fantastic paint job you'er going to do...having a "hull chunk" fall out can have other consequences with a boat that's in the water.
Recently a member at the club had a patch "Professionally" repaired between the Keel and shaft log on his sailboat. By the time he made it to his slip the boat was pumping water and pumping water. Pulled the flooring to find a nice crack in the patch. We pulled the boat, the next day he started grinding the repair. Some glass then pockets filled with Marine-Tex or similar. So much for a "professional job".
With your new power plants your going to be able to push that boat ALOT harder then its been pushed before, old crap fixes that were "good enough" may not be anymore.
Just my .02
Yannis
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by Yannis »

Who am'I to agree, but I agree with Carl!
1973 B28 FBC/2007 4LHA STP's - "Phantom Duck" - Hull "BER 00794 1172"
micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

That’s my worst fear, everything that I’ve found has been on the cap. This is the only repair on the hull itself.
micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

Spoke too soon, pics to follow in the afternoon.
Last edited by micky on Oct 6th, '20, 17:21, edited 1 time in total.
micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

Started working on the stern. I hadn't touched it as I knew that with the engine install it would get all banged up. Started looking for spider cracks and found a few small ones, sanded, put a small piece of 1708, and faired it. Also removed the tank fill (2) as they are getting re-chromed. Sealed the holes for now so that water doesn't get in. Then saw a large crack and ground that out, put a 1708 on top of it and for some reason it didn't dry so when I ripped it out to re-do it, I got another surprise. This had been poorly repaired before as with every repair in this boat, ground out everything and started fresh. PO liked to hit pilings with the back corners and the sides, maybe to pivot the boat.

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micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

Was able to sand the second coat of awlfair on the back wall. Also applied the awlfair to the gunnel areas worked last week and did some touch up on the back wall as well. Now this week's new problem, the doors. I had bought a pair of original doors from someone on the Hatteras forum. Upon putting them in place I saw that I would need to cut the back wall around 4" - 6" to each side as a lot of the doors are behind the wall and I would still have wood on the boat. Right now the opening is 38" wide, so I was thinking of fabricating a 1.5" pvc door covered with 1708 on both sides, just like I did with the wall. It would be a sliding door that when open it would be behind the wall. Need your input on this idea.

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Yannis
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by Yannis »

Why not place the doors on the outside?
1973 B28 FBC/2007 4LHA STP's - "Phantom Duck" - Hull "BER 00794 1172"
micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

Boat has a second station on the stbd side.
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ktm_2000
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by ktm_2000 »

Micky, you are making me look bad with all the slow progress on my boat, you get way more done than I could dream of.
micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

I started this project on April 2018 and really want to finish it and use it.
micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

Went to the boat today and after measuring decided to use a swing door opening back toward stbd.
micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

Some heavy grinding went down today, removed all the gelcoat from the stern as if you look at some EARLY pictures, part of it blew away when I pressure washed the boat. Used 6 50 grit 7" disks. The plan is to put 2 layers of 1708 and fair. After this was done the PO had opened 3 6" holes in the floor to access the muffler clamps. Put 1 layer of 1708 to seal the 3 holes and did the same on the fuel gauges holes, these ones will be opened back, its just to keep water out of the bilge. Lastly, awlfaired the flying bridge floor. More sanding to continue tomorrow.

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micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

Today I put the 2 layers of 1708 on the aft floor. One from front to back and the other one from left to right. Tomorrow some grinding, some sanding and leave everything with the first coat of awlfair.

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micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

I was able to apply the first coat of awlfair to the back deck before it started raining, also painted with mahogany tint all the interior wood trim, it came out great.

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micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

Started today by sanding the edge of the interior cabinet, if you see some old pictures they had glued laminate on it and it had all the contact cement. Still need to paint it. After that, sanded the awlfair on the back deck and applied the second coat of awlfair. More sanding tomorrow. Lastly started removing the ceiling vinyl to be able to install the flush mount lights.

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micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

Was to tired to sand today (will do it tomorrow) so installed the salon lights and made the frame for the entrance door. Installed 2 C channels, one on each corner of the back wall, a 3 x 3 angle on the floor and a 1x2 square pipe up top with an 1x2 angle to serve as a stop for the door. My plan is to cut the door tomorrow and fiberglass it next weekend.

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micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

Good news and bad news today. The good news is that I finally finished sanding the back deck. Also connected the salon lights to the switch and they look great, I'll be adding a couple more as there are like dark spots. The bad news is that because I removed the headliner and rain was pouring this morning, I saw a few leaks thru the screws that hold the flybridge to the boat so out came the grinder. It had some type of tape that was rubber on the side of the screws and like cork on top, apparently this is what sealed the screws. So removed every bit of that and got to bare glass and put a layer of 1708 all around the bridge. Still need to grind it down and fair it.

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Yannis
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by Yannis »

Micky,

Good thing water dripped now, before you put up the new headliner!
Also, since you now have so many lights, it could be a good thing to wire them onto two switches, in case you want partial lighting sometimes.
1973 B28 FBC/2007 4LHA STP's - "Phantom Duck" - Hull "BER 00794 1172"
micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

Hi Yannis,

Better now than later. Also the lights are on 2 different circuits so I can play with them, they are also dimmable.
Yannis
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by Yannis »

Fine, but dimmed lights consume the same electricity as non dimmed, people think that by dimming they save energy which is false!
1973 B28 FBC/2007 4LHA STP's - "Phantom Duck" - Hull "BER 00794 1172"
micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

Another very productive day today. Started but adding 5 more lights to the salon floor, then installed the 3 lights on the galley and in front of the bathroom door. After finishing with all the wiring, installed the track for the sliding door. Found 20 small screw holes on the salon ceiling parallel to the side windows (10 on each side), fixed all if that with west system six 10. Then went outside and put the first coat of awlfair on the edge of the flybridge/hull attachment place. While finishing this, looked at the front deck and saw a 1/2" long hair line crack, got the grinder and when I started grinding look what I found, a 24" cut in floor that was "fixed" with fairing compound, the area around the cut has at least 1/2" of fairing on top of it, put 2 layers of 1708 on top of the cut as I was running out of daylight but the plan is to continue grinding in the direction of the cut to see what I find.

I'm so scared of painting the boat and then cracks appearing everywhere.

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micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

Spent 2.5 hrs on the boat today, first cut the entrance door to size, tomorrow I'll put the 1708 on both sides of it. Then cut the wood in the v-berth V so that you don't feel it when on the front bed. Then finished installing the lights in the galley area (supplier ran out of the light itself). Lastly I removed the frp I had installed where the front windows were as the canvas guy is coming next week to install the headliner and SURPRISE!!!!! they didn't remove the aluminum frame when they glassed in the front windows. Tomorrow back to sanding.

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micky
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Re: 1968 Hatteras 34 project

Post by micky »

Today sanded all the awlfair and gave it the second coat then layed the 1708 on both sides of the sliding door. Plan for tomorrow is sand the awlfair once again and put the awlfair coat on both sides of the door. Going full steam ahead.

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