Engine boxes and non-skid
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Engine boxes and non-skid
Crows Nest's engine boxes are getting prepped (by me) for painting. I know the boxes (stock) on the Anna E. had a molded in non-skid. Crows Nest's boxes had the non-skid sanded and filled and painted, and the boxes were smooth--non non-skid.
When I paint the boxes, do I add non-skid for the tops, or leave them smooth? I'm thinking of adding non-skid. It seems like a smooth box could be a pretty easy way to slip. Just curious what folks have done and why.
Thanks.
When I paint the boxes, do I add non-skid for the tops, or leave them smooth? I'm thinking of adding non-skid. It seems like a smooth box could be a pretty easy way to slip. Just curious what folks have done and why.
Thanks.
1968 B20 Moppie - Hull # 201-937
1969 B31 FBC - Hull # 315-881 (sold)
1977 B31 FBC - Hull # BERG1652M77J (sold)
1969 B31 FBC - Hull # 315-881 (sold)
1977 B31 FBC - Hull # BERG1652M77J (sold)
- TailhookTom
- Senior Member
- Posts: 985
- Joined: Jul 3rd, '06, 14:12
Re: Engine boxes and non-skid
My engine boxes were perfectly smooth and I never once slipped on them, no matter sea nor alcohol conditions....the same can not be said for Thuddd..... but that wasn't the lack of non-skid.
Tom
Tom
Re: Engine boxes and non-skid
Tom I find that hard to believe however if true and they are smooth you are even more of a cat then I am. I run to the bridge when shark fishing to fire her up with mako running the non skid is essential !
capt.bob lico
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- Pete Fallon
- Senior Member
- Posts: 1318
- Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 23:10
- Location: Stuart Fl. and Salem, Ma.
Re: Engine boxes and non-skid
Faithful,
On the subject of engine boxes, my old 2 piece lids were always not skid surfaces, the new single piece boxes I got from Marlin Youker wee painted and had a very light sand finish on the flat surfaces. I re-sanded them down to smooth primed and then applied Imron Matterhorn White with a good roller and brush, I masked off the tops and used a 1 pint paint can as the radius after applying the second coat and before it dried (still wet) I used a Johnsons Baby Powder bottle with medium grit non-skid, you stand over the box and gently squeeze the bottle so the non skid comes out evenly, no clumps or high spots, allow it to dry completely then vacuum of any excess with the brush accessory fixture, add another coat of Imron and your finished. It looks great and like it was sprayed from a wide bore gun. I learned the baby powder trick from an old time fiberglass guy that worked for us, he had a lot of short cuts and tips that always came out looking great. I is a course grit finish but I'd rather have it rough than to be falling on my ass in rough seas. band aids are cheep, broken bones take a long time to heal and I always wear good boat shoes never barefoot, I've seen too many cut up feet from barefoot so called mates.
Pete Fallon
On the subject of engine boxes, my old 2 piece lids were always not skid surfaces, the new single piece boxes I got from Marlin Youker wee painted and had a very light sand finish on the flat surfaces. I re-sanded them down to smooth primed and then applied Imron Matterhorn White with a good roller and brush, I masked off the tops and used a 1 pint paint can as the radius after applying the second coat and before it dried (still wet) I used a Johnsons Baby Powder bottle with medium grit non-skid, you stand over the box and gently squeeze the bottle so the non skid comes out evenly, no clumps or high spots, allow it to dry completely then vacuum of any excess with the brush accessory fixture, add another coat of Imron and your finished. It looks great and like it was sprayed from a wide bore gun. I learned the baby powder trick from an old time fiberglass guy that worked for us, he had a lot of short cuts and tips that always came out looking great. I is a course grit finish but I'd rather have it rough than to be falling on my ass in rough seas. band aids are cheep, broken bones take a long time to heal and I always wear good boat shoes never barefoot, I've seen too many cut up feet from barefoot so called mates.
Pete Fallon
1961 Express Vizcaya Hull 186 12-13-61
Re: Engine boxes and non-skid
Quite a bit of wisdom spoken by Pete listen up brothers. I would non skids hundred times over then take a fall on my back/ spine.
capt.bob lico
bero13010473
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- TailhookTom
- Senior Member
- Posts: 985
- Joined: Jul 3rd, '06, 14:12
Re: Engine boxes and non-skid
Never once came close to slipping, Bob. And I routinely swung myself under the bellyband and onto the engine boxes to leader or gaff. I didn't have a ladder from the engine box up to the bridge -- had two steps built into the rear legs of the hardtop that went directly to the gunnel. So first step was onto the box, then swing around to port or startboard and up to the bridge. Maybe I'm part monkey.
Tom
Tom
- mike ohlstein
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Re: Engine boxes and non-skid
TailhookTom wrote: Maybe I'm part monkey.
Tom
I was gonna say.....
- PeterPalmieri
- Senior Member
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- Joined: Nov 12th, '10, 11:26
- Location: Babylon, NY
Re: Engine boxes and non-skid
Every time I take the boat out I put the cushions on my engine box otherwise they take up the entire cabin. The cushions cover the engine box so I'm always stepping on the cushion. I'd likely go with a smooth finish for easier clean up when the time comes.
Pete
Pete
1969 31 Bertram FBC "East Wind" hull #315939
Re: Engine boxes and non-skid
I also have cushions on boxes and no ladder I use step on gin pole .i left the cushions I foot short on edge of box to make 1st step .the non skid helps holds cushions in place as well as added air space.i never fell yet but there always a fist time .what the hell it don't cost nothing!
capt.bob lico
bero13010473
bero13010473
Re: Engine boxes and non-skid
Thanks for all the replies.
1968 B20 Moppie - Hull # 201-937
1969 B31 FBC - Hull # 315-881 (sold)
1977 B31 FBC - Hull # BERG1652M77J (sold)
1969 B31 FBC - Hull # 315-881 (sold)
1977 B31 FBC - Hull # BERG1652M77J (sold)
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