Canvas time

[PeterPalmieri]

So I have put this off for some time, but the canvas on the bridge is now falling apart and beyond further repair. I will deal for the remainder of the season but she won't be going back on the bridge in the spring.

My long term plan is to remove the windshield and the original bridge railing. What I think I'd like to do is design my enclosure with that in mind. Removing the windshield now is no big deal but where the rail meets the sides of the bridge may be an issue.

What I'd like to do is follow the line of where the shield is now with a track, follow that down to where the bridge bulkhead changes (two curves meet) and then continue back and down. Right now my canvas extends to where it sweeps down to the brow but I don't think I want to go that far back. Thinking I'd like to stop a foot or so short of that.

Eventually I will connect the two back legs of my tower with a rocket launcher so I will enter and exit the ladder from the outside when the original rail is removed, so I need enough space between the legs and canvas. With that said I want to stay dry but not to enclosed. Any ideas on where I should use track vs. snaps vs. zippers would be helpful.

I have an electronics box overhead so I need glass that will roll rather then be hinged. I think I remember Chimera using track and a zipper for connection to the bridge, which would seem to make sense. I will follow up with some pictures..

Any helpful hints would be helpful and what to avoid that a canvas guy might recommend would be very helpful.

[PeterPalmieri]

Some older shots but I think you can see.

[PeterPalmieri]

There was a good thread a while back where JP explained how it was attached to the bridge vs how Bob Lico did it, that thread was helpful but I'm having trouble finding it.

Pete

EDIT FOUND IT http://bertram31.com/newbb/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6952" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[PeterPalmieri]

I realize I'm talking to myself at this point, but I have never been acused of being normal.

After reviewing JPs pics it's clear I have to remove the original bridge rail when I do the canvas.

This cause other issues for me, as my winter cover wraps around the rail and uses the existing fastners for my surround.

So the list is:

Remove windshield
Remove railing
New rocket launcher welded across the back of the tower
install new canvas
Modify existing winter cover
Fill the old holes

If i'm getting JPs set up right

The track runs along the edge of the bridge, a small piece of canvas maybe 3 or 4 inches with a zipper slides in. The glass slides into a track at the top (already have that) and then there is a zipper along the bottom of the glass so it can attach to the base? One U shaped openning in the front and the sides are solid bent with no seam?

[JP Dalik]

Your not talking to yourself

Yes track top and bottom, the bottom zippers off.

Rod holders to the half tower will make the job easier and you can add custom fly rod holders and a butt load a regular ones, with that said a good glass(eisenglass) guy can cut the clear to allow the rail to pass without much trouble, the seem is low enough where it shouldn't effect you. The plastic track will need to be heated to make the curves. It should mount on the horizontal surface around the bridge.
With your radio box you will need to go with a soft good of .40 ga sheet glass or something compatible that can roll. The hard glass will block access when pinned up, further it would have to hinge below the box to work.

Good luck, gotta get back to fall bass fishing already cracked 30 time to look for a bigger one.

[PeterPalmieri]

I've got the tower guy lined up to add the rocket launcher. What's a good distance to spread the rod holders apart? I'd like to basically fit as many as I can, I generally carry more stuff then I need all the time. I will never have a set of 80s on the boat, I don't think I need to double up with offsetting angles. Also if I'm standing on the brow I want it just below belt high? I don't want it to interfere with my view of the cockpit, I want some safety and I want to be able to swing right under it to the engine box when it's rough or I'm in a hurry. I can make my own decision on this but in regards to these questions any "I wish I did or didn't" would be helpful.

Being that the boat sits in the water all winter, I have a bridge and cockpit cover, which conforms to the bridge rail, the windshield and the existing fastners for my old eisenglass. It only makes sense over the winter while I have the bridge cover on to remove the rail and shield modify the cover and make the surround. Am I going to have fit issues in the summer if I have it done over the winter?

[CaptPatrick]

Am I going to have fit issues in the summer if I have it done over the winter?

I've seen winter built enclosures that come summertime, look like a baggy suit. Also summer built exclosures that come winter, the snaps are a 1/4" from fitting due to contraction of the plastic glass. No matter what you do it always seems to be PITA at one season or the another...

[PeterPalmieri]

Twist studs for the straps to hold the rolled front section?

I tend to almost always have the canvas open, but maybe because mine is not very clear. Like most I like a little wind blowing through my hair and that bridge can get hot even on cool days. That being said a number of years ago I was on a larger boat that had maybe a 6" strip of mesh along the entire top of the canvas with solid canvas and velcro. The idea was it gave you some ventilation but not wind and water directly in the face. I thought it was a good concept anybody have experience?

[Charlie J]

I had my enclose done last year over the winter, the boat was shrink wrapped,and if needed a heater could be plugged in.
no problem with the fit come summer