454 gasket replacement

[Hueso]

Faithful:

Both my Crusaders 454's are leaking small amounts of oil from many of its gaskets and seals (if not all). My trusted mechanic suggested to pull out both engines and replace all of them, including risers. Also, repaint the engines. The reason he gave me to take them out is to change the gasket of the crank case, the seal in front and the one between the engine and transmission. Estimate $1,500 per engine. I personally think is a competitive price. What do you think about the price? Is it necessary to pull the engines out?

[CaptPatrick]

David,

If that price includes pulling, replacing, alignment, the painting, and he'll warrantee against future leaks for a reasonable time period, it's more than reasonable. Question him closely for a turn key price... To do the job correctly, yes the engines should be pulled.

[Harry Babb]

David I would certainly go along with pulling the engines to clean them and replace gaskets.

If the timing cover needs removing, I am pretty certain that you must remove the oil pan to enable removal of the timing cover. Another thing to look at is the timing cover is stamped steel......I have seen holes in the timing cover from rust.

I think its odd that "Every" or nearly every gasket is leaking.......usually the GM's develop leaks around the Valve Covers and Intake manifold ends......and then the oil runs down over everything. Its not necessary to pull the engines just to do the intake and the valve covers.

In my opinion $1500 would be a very fair price to pull both engines, replace the gaskets and seals, clean and paint then reinstall the engines and realign them.

hb

[Bruce]

Depending on the age gaskets do dry out and shrink or harden and can leak. Usual suspects are the valve cover gaskets, under the ends of the intake manifold and front crank seal.

Excessive crankcase pressure can help leaks along.

If its just age, then r and r is the treatment. 1500 is a good turn key price per engine.

Watch for a groove on the crank snout from the seal. If there is one and its deep enough you'll have to sleeve it.

One seal you may be ignoring is the rear main. When then dust cover is pulled over the bottom part of flywheel , make sure to look for oil there.

[Hueso]

As always, Thanks for your insight!

Capt. Pat:

Yes, he is doing all that.

Harry:

You are correct, main problem is in the valve cover, intake manifolds and aroun crankcase.

Bruce:

The mechanic specifically told me about that one. Now I'm feeling that I'm doing the correct thing.

[Dug]

Hueso,

Yep, you are.

Dug

[Hueso]

PORT SIDE: Seems like the front seal is damaged.



STARBOARD SIDE: Whole different story. Front seal and crankcase.

[Rawleigh]

Hueso: Assuming you can get them sent down there, I have had good luck with the POR15 engine enamel, since you will be giving them a good paint job. I also used their two part Hardnose White paint in my engine compartment when the engine was out. It is like slick white plastic after it dries. i brushed it in in two coats.

http://www.por15.com/ENGINE-ENAMEL_p_47.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Hueso]

Rawleigh:

Thanks. I will do so. What did you do and use to remove the old paint and prepare the engine compartment area before painting?

[Rawleigh]

My engine compartment was bare factory fiberglass so i just cleaned it good with POR15 Marine Clean (a strong alkaline cleaner) sanded it lightly and put on two coats. It is blindingly white, but wipes clean now. The paint is so glossy that your fingers squeak when you pull them across it!

On the motors i just wire brushed and sanded where I could and did the POR15 system of their acid etch followed by Marine Clean scrubbed thoroughly, with several coats of POR15 rust preventative paint on the rusty parts and corners and several coats of their engine paint over the whole thing. The POR15 rust preventative paint goes on over tight rust, so wire brushing was sufficient to get it to a primeable surface. You don't want large rust sticking up very high because the paint runs down into the "valleys" and leave the points unprotected, but fairly smooth wirebrushed rust (the reddish dusty look) paints fine. You still need multiple coats to get all of the rust "points" but it covers it up and seals it from moisture and thus further corrosion. I painted the gear on the engine so as not to leave any unprotected surfaces or cracks.