Bleeding steering
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Bleeding steering
Just replaced the steering cylinder and am attempting to bleed the system with the procedure from this website using 5606.After adding probably a quart of fluid in stages,I can still hear fluid or air coursing thru the helm when I make the slow twenty turns in each direction.Still sounds like there is air in the system and the steering has only moved once for just a small amount.will try some more tomorrow.Any Ideas what I may be doing wrong,or anything to look for? Thanks, john
BERG1847M80F
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I just had to bleed mine. I went to Home Depot and picked up a couple of fittings with a hose end barb on it that screws into the filler hole, along with a shut off valve and come cleare hose to fit over the barb.
I followed Capt. Pat's directions of building a bleeder system., along with Old UV's suggestions.
Put a short piece of the clear hose from the fitting that screws into the filler hole to the shut off valve. Then Put a longer piece, lets say 2 1/2 feet of hose on the other end. A funnel sticks in the end of that hose.
Over the bleeder ports I put a piece of clear plastic tubing. Please hose clamp those other wise they will blow off as pressure buildes.
Ok now open the bleeder valves, go back to the wheel open the valve and pour fluid into the funnel. Fill the tube. Now just start cranking the wheel over. I did not need a lot of fluid, but I had to turn it more than 20 times to get the air out. However, once you think you have the aiir out you don't. Now start cranking the other direction. At some point the cylinder ram will start to work. Once you don't see any more bubbles in the hose you are done.
Shut the valve and put a wrag under the hole and disconnect. Now you just need to empty out the hose and funnel..
good Luck.
I followed Capt. Pat's directions of building a bleeder system., along with Old UV's suggestions.
Put a short piece of the clear hose from the fitting that screws into the filler hole to the shut off valve. Then Put a longer piece, lets say 2 1/2 feet of hose on the other end. A funnel sticks in the end of that hose.
Over the bleeder ports I put a piece of clear plastic tubing. Please hose clamp those other wise they will blow off as pressure buildes.
Ok now open the bleeder valves, go back to the wheel open the valve and pour fluid into the funnel. Fill the tube. Now just start cranking the wheel over. I did not need a lot of fluid, but I had to turn it more than 20 times to get the air out. However, once you think you have the aiir out you don't. Now start cranking the other direction. At some point the cylinder ram will start to work. Once you don't see any more bubbles in the hose you are done.
Shut the valve and put a wrag under the hole and disconnect. Now you just need to empty out the hose and funnel..
good Luck.
1975 FBC BERG1467-315
Bleeding steering
Tony, Thanks for the info.That will save a lot of time refilling the reservoir and capping it off each time.I'll try that today. John
BERG1847M80F
Bleeding steering
BTW, do the bleeder ports have to be opened and closed each time or can the hoses that go to them be submerged in a jar of fluid? What keeps air from going back up the bleeders if they aren't closed each time?
BERG1847M80F
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JR
Sorry I was not clear, my fault. The hose going over the bleeders, you actually run the hose from Bleeder to bleeder. Like jumper wire. You are creating a continous loop. A closed system so to speak so you don't waste fluid either.
You can then open both bleeders and then crank away. No need to use bottles. Nice clean and simple.
when the air bubbles stop running up the clear hose at the helm you are golden. Just make sure you crank one way, until there are no bubbles then the other way until no bubbles.
The nice thing is, you loose and spill very little fluid. Just to make sure, I had all the air, my wife watched the hose running between the bleeders. But after doing it, no need to have any one watch.
Sorry I was not clear, my fault. The hose going over the bleeders, you actually run the hose from Bleeder to bleeder. Like jumper wire. You are creating a continous loop. A closed system so to speak so you don't waste fluid either.
You can then open both bleeders and then crank away. No need to use bottles. Nice clean and simple.
when the air bubbles stop running up the clear hose at the helm you are golden. Just make sure you crank one way, until there are no bubbles then the other way until no bubbles.
The nice thing is, you loose and spill very little fluid. Just to make sure, I had all the air, my wife watched the hose running between the bleeders. But after doing it, no need to have any one watch.
1975 FBC BERG1467-315
Bleeding steering
The air,where do it go ? It is a closed system and the reservoir is full if there is fluid in the hose unless the inline valve is closed. Thanks, john
BERG1847M80F
Bleeding steering
Sorry ! I understand now.The air goes up the filler tube because the valve is open.That makes sense.I would go try it out right now but I can't talk my wife into holding the flashlight.
BERG1847M80F
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- Senior Member
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- Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 21:24
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Ok, so you have the line connecting the bleeder ports. You then have your set up at the helm to add the fluid. The nylon or brass thresded fitting into the helm with teh barbed howe end attached to a shut off. Then the hose from the shut off to the funnel
The helm is now open and that is where the air escapes.
Go down and open the two bleeder valves. And please use hose clamps to hold on those hoses. Ask my wife how she knows. Blew the line off and she got hit with fluid.
You basically have formed a loop and the only way the air can get out is at the helm.
Poor the fluid into the funnel and fill the hose to about where the funnel and the hose connect, Open the valve.
As you turn the wheel you will see bubbles start to rise to the funnel as fluid enters the system. You can turn the wheel one way during this step.
Ok, now, once the bubbles stop rising, strat turning the wheel the other way. By know you should see the cylander ram moving. This means all of teh air is almost out. Keep on cranking until you have no more bubbles. Remember, keep filing that funnel. Not to the top or you will have a mess as the bubbles escape.
Ok, now when the bubbles stop, reverse the turn one more time. If you don't see any bubbles after about 20 turns you are good.
Ok at this point, you can close the valve at helm set up. Somehow prop up the funnel. Go down and close the bleeder valves and you are all set.
Disconnect everything and turn the wheel. It should be smooth an have a hard stop. Not mushy.
You are good to go.
The helm is now open and that is where the air escapes.
Go down and open the two bleeder valves. And please use hose clamps to hold on those hoses. Ask my wife how she knows. Blew the line off and she got hit with fluid.
You basically have formed a loop and the only way the air can get out is at the helm.
Poor the fluid into the funnel and fill the hose to about where the funnel and the hose connect, Open the valve.
As you turn the wheel you will see bubbles start to rise to the funnel as fluid enters the system. You can turn the wheel one way during this step.
Ok, now, once the bubbles stop rising, strat turning the wheel the other way. By know you should see the cylander ram moving. This means all of teh air is almost out. Keep on cranking until you have no more bubbles. Remember, keep filing that funnel. Not to the top or you will have a mess as the bubbles escape.
Ok, now when the bubbles stop, reverse the turn one more time. If you don't see any bubbles after about 20 turns you are good.
Ok at this point, you can close the valve at helm set up. Somehow prop up the funnel. Go down and close the bleeder valves and you are all set.
Disconnect everything and turn the wheel. It should be smooth an have a hard stop. Not mushy.
You are good to go.
1975 FBC BERG1467-315
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