Never made a 220 in the 4LH series. The labels are in KW and someone may have crossed it over to HP wrong.
The 4LH-STE started out as a 230hp and then when manufacturers got to screw with the numbers they up'd it to 240hp
The lower hp version is the 4LH-DTE 170/190 and the 4LH-HTE was the 150 which I never saw marketed in the US.
Stern drives were designated with a Z in the suffix and made a wonderful stern drive package with the Bravo drives.
Its practically impossible to tell the two apart by sight and at that angle.
Too bad they discontinued the engine here in the US due to emissions. The BMW all electronic replaced it. You can get them where your at but the last time I checked about a year ago, the price at least just offshore of the US was stupid high.
One of the best engines Yanmar built along with the 6LY series up to 370hp. The 315hp 6LY's we put in Buddy Boy are forever engines. The 350hp version was just the intermediate that cut the mustard without being too much in a 30 foot boat.
Yanmar, being the brain dead that they are discontinued those versions and decided to make that block various shades of hand grenade engines.
I spoke with the broker and he is going to send some information to me.
He said the engine is "new". Very low hours... he did not think it would still be under warranty. Seems that the sale is result of failed marriage.
Assuming that I were to buy this for the engine package and only consider the B20 Moppie as "packaging" what do you think a fair price would be?
It apparantly was a $30,000 installation when it was done (don't have installation date).
Listed right now for $14,500 (I think, it was listed for $29,000 last season.)
I did call up a "bloke" in Australia and they do still sell this engine in these parts. I didn't dare ask the price because you'll pay $5 for a coke in Australia. He told me there is 160, 200 and 240 HP version sold around here.
New is a relative term.
Those engines haven't been available in the states I think for 4 to 5 years unless someone had bought it and it sat.
Get the serial number and look it up on the Yanmar web site to see if and when it was registered.
Also on the hP ratings, take it with a grain of salt. Different culture conversions produce different numbers but the bottom line is unless the fuel is cool, its a cool day and your running flat out, the HP ratings will never be reached.
Figure a 5% average in loss for any engine at cruise as most are rated at WOT.
Ship Shape TV just did an episode where he replaced his diesel power out of his 20' Bertram because it partially sunk at the dock. They mentioned replacing a ton of parts but the engine still would not run right.
I believe I have the details right. Any chance that's the motor???
Troy & Daria
28 Bertram FBC, 3.9 Cummin BT's
Conchy Joe "ITS THE BOAT'S NAME, NOT MINE" -
Hypoluxo Point, FL
OK... got the long itemized document from the install.
Here's the scoop that I know:
Work was done in late spring of 2004.
There is not a serial number listed in document, but it does clearly say "220 4LHA-STZP" Going to have to internet search this one. Might very well have been a typo.
An invoice is not a sure fire way of knowing the quality of an installation, but they didn't miss out on charging anything. Seems they got it down to the last $0.04 SS flat washer.
Tom - If you are reasonably close please shoot me an email. ian dot upton at gm dot com.
Thanks for posting Mike. I sent Ian a lot of pics via our blackberrys but couldn't get this one on here. I figured the guys would like to see it. Kind of overkill for a 20?
Mike - that picture looks like the one that Tom sent me earlier today. :-D
I agree... at least I know what engine I am looking at now.
Thanks to Tom, I do have some more information.
It appears that the boat has not been run in 5-6 years. There is a '06 regestration sticker on hull. The drive look fine, the engine has a bit of rust and a bit of peeling paint but not too bad.
If it has sat for 5 years (assuming it was properly winterized) what should be done before first cranking? Should colant be replaced or only need to check fluids? Tom said the broker was going to try and get the boat in the water and run her, but should I request and pay to have fluids changed or should I not be concerned with an initial firing and warm up?
Diesels don't really need much 'putting away'. Have him change the oil and filter. If anything, I would be more nervous about the fuel tank. Unless it was full, there is probably water from condensation, possibly algae.
Should probably change the fluids in the drive leg too, although I suppose there's no need to do the power steering fluid until you know that you want the thing.
Yes, pretty big for a 20. That engine is probably 850 lbs and the Bravo 3 is pretty beefy too. For a boat like the B20 which is known to be self sinking rather than self bailing.........I don't know........
So potentially run from a remote tank... good info.
I am also slightly concerned about weight. This engine package weighs almost the same as a Merc / Volvo Bravo III / Duoprop package and there are planty of these in Bertram 20s around.
Because of the self sinking nature of the B20, I have done two things to hopefully help in this situation.
1. I raised the sole about 2" and removed the scuppers. I will wait on the scuppers until I see water line, etc.
2. If scuppers go back in, there will be a 'dam' around the engine bay so water splashing in through scupper will not find way into bildge.
Man it really sucks being 24 hours of flight time away from home right now... I would have loved to be there in person, but have lots of pictures.
It sounded like a bottom feeder or two threw some lowball offers in the 5k range at the soon to be ex-wife. They said it was because she couldn't prove it ran. Hopefully she wasn't a trophy wife. And, hopefully Ian gets the motor.
240 is underpowered in a 20 in my opinion! Although a diesel might be different, with the torque. I have allegedly 320 hp in my 20, top speed gps 62 mph. No chine walk, still digging the bertram hole in the water, I usually "cruise" at 4600 rpm, around 53 mph and she handles beautifully at that speed, although it is hard to take a sip of your beer because of the wind. As far as weight goes and the self sinking thing, my chines are buried at rest, looks crappy, but at speed all that weight in the ass improves stability and re-entry after launching is much smoother. I foam filled the hull and have no through hulls, not even a transom drain.
Ian, tongue was in my cheek a little...Come to BC anytime, boat rides are free! I will also have the boat in Ontario (well, almost manitoba actually) this summer for the month of July at Lake of the Woods. I guess that is no closer to Jakarta, though!
Glad to see that your project is still moving ahead, good luck with the motor.
If your at all interested in the drive, have it checked and make sure the props come off and is not frozen on the output shaft. I read I think its a 3 and cutting off those props would be expensive, I know I've had to do it.
If the engine wasn't flushed properly when put away, guaranteed there is corrosion buildup internal to the exchangers, oil, inter and coolant. Might want to pop the caps on all three to check and make sure there are no corrosion zits as I call them in the fresh water coolant. They look like white balls.
Also I can't tell from your pic on what the exhaust is doing.
Is it going out the back or is it using the leg that dumps in into the drive. If its using the leg, its going to be aluminum.
If you didn't flush them, they corroded thru fairly quick. See if they can pop the hose off and look down the inside of the pipe.
I'm no I/O guy by any means as far as mechanics go -- however, I didn't note any external exhaust when I looked at the boat for Ian, so it must be running through the drive. I sent Ian about 2 dozen pics of the drive and the motor -- if you want to pm me your email, I can send them to you as well.
Ian, if you want, I can be there again this weekend (it is only 15 minutes away from me) if they are going to run the motor -- just let me know.
I am sure that the exhaust goes through the drive. I confirmed with the yard that there is a drive shower, never seem this except for high performance applications.
Bruce - thanks for the tips. I never would have thought to remove the props. I'll definitely send the recommendations to the yard to have them go through it. Are the corrosion zits floating around or corrosion on the metal like barnacles?
Tom - I might just see if you could do that. Since I am a few miles away now... I'm trying to get some storage options lined up in case things go through. Last thing I want to do is frantically get transportation lined up but not have any place to move the boat to. It looks like I have some options.
If you are looking for storage, this little marina is where I keep my 13' Whaler. They are nice people. Marina is tiny, biggest boat is 23', but you can't beat the Marina Rates. It is a 20 minute drive from where the B20 presently is located.
Ian,
Usually if you pop the pressure cap you can see some. Recheck after its run and cooled down.
The outdrive showers are really a kinda joke especially if they just use the pressure of the fwd movement and not a pump.
Not enough water to really cool the upper drive down since under way its out of the water and has no heat sink as in water.
All the diesel/Merc drives I did all came with a kit to install since the bravo drives mostly don't use the water pickup in the lower unit. They use a thru hull or a high speed off the transom for water pickup.
Don't forget draining some LU oil to check for water and or metal. Diesel drives were famous for metal. The upper housing is where the cone clutches are for the shifting. They didn't like the diesel torque running larger props to load them up. Even a a little higher than normal shift idle took its toll.
There was a bright red B-20 powered by a Yanmar diesel (if I am not mistaken) and a Bravo 3 outdrive at the NY Boat show several years ago. I think it also appeared at the Atlantic City Bertram Rendezvous. It HAD that wierd spraying system over the top section of the Bravo 3. I was told it was put on after and was necessary to cool down the outdrive. Anyone else remember that boat?
You just clarified what I couldn't figure out -- there was what looked like a high pressure showerhead about a foot over the top of the outdrive. Ian -- do you think that is what that is? I know I took pictures of it.
You offered her 80% of the current asking price -- that was a very reasonable offer. It doesn't matter a bit that the installation cost was 3 times that - they made a bad investment!
I bet that boat is still sitting there this summer. It was for sale for a year at 28,900 and got ZERO offers.