External Strainers - yep I've read - need feedback

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JeremyD
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Location: ST. PETE, FL

External Strainers - yep I've read - need feedback

Post by JeremyD »

So - have to take the Hyena boat in for a bottom job - Have one thru hull that the handle broke off - that goes to one of the original strainers.

and have a leaking strainer -

So plan on replacing the thru hulls - sea cocks - and was thinking about just pulling the old stuff and installing new - with external strainers.

So my question(s) are:

#1 - Anybody used these in a tropical environment? Held up OK?
#2 - With them sticking out - do they effect performance?
#3 - any issues with hauling the boat? (as in - are they far enough away from strap placement)

Thanks
1977 B31 (315 Cummins) Build thread --->https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-ho ... model.html
2010 Key West Bay Reef | 150 Yamaha
1986 Bertram 28 260 Mercruisers [SOLD]
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Pete Fallon
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Location: Stuart Fl. and Salem, Ma.

Post by Pete Fallon »

Jeremy,
They are in use on alot of boats here in Florida. No issues that I have seen, with the exception of heavy build-up of bottom paint over the holes in the removable screens. This happened on Buddy Boy when I did the survey 2 years ago. The yard painted over the entire stainless steel screen with so much paint only about 1/2 the holes were flowing water.

I just replaced all my original cone valve thru hulls on my 1961 Express with Groco 1-1/2" sea cocks, external strainers and elbows, they are not cheap, over $600 with a 30% discount for marine trade at a local marine supply house. I did away with the Perko internal strainers also. Silicon bronze 3/8"x 2" flat head screws and nuts are also very expensive. The Groco units have heay duty handles that will not break, if you go with Conbraco valves make sure to get the heavy stainless handles, the are not standard youv'e got to ask for them. Don't forget to bond all the fittings, replace the original wire if it looks even a little suspect, with new #8 AWG green stranded wire.

Don't even think of using valves from Home Depot, inferrior quality, only for household application.

When installing the new valves clean the old caulking and bottom paint down to bare fiberglass and use Life Caulk for caulking, I never use 5200 on anything that I want to possiblily remove at a later date. Good luck.
Pete
1961 Express Vizcaya Hull 186 12-13-61
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Charlie J
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Post by Charlie J »

been using them for years up here in the north, no problems at all, but as pete said check the holes with bottom paint every other year i have to drill them out, since i cant paint the bottom myself anymore
1968 hull # 316 - 757
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JeremyD
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Post by JeremyD »

So - OK to paint the screen when the bottom is done? Just make sure the holes are open?

Thanks for the feedback
1977 B31 (315 Cummins) Build thread --->https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-ho ... model.html
2010 Key West Bay Reef | 150 Yamaha
1986 Bertram 28 260 Mercruisers [SOLD]
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Rawleigh
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Post by Rawleigh »

Yes. The screens come out bu removing 4 screws. Remove them and paint both sides and under the strainer well.
Rawleigh
1966 FBC 31
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Mikey
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Post by Mikey »

What Rawleigh said. Every other year I take the the screens out (4 screws), clean them on my wire wheel, and paint. This time I did the Tef Gel instead of paint. We'll see. Let you know in December.
Mikey
3/18/1963 - -31-327 factory hardtop express, the only one left.
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits.
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