Barrier to antifouling..Is hard tie coat necassary??

tunawish · Post by **tunawish** » Aug 20th, '11, 20:42

I know this has been beat like a dead horse but put so much time and now $600.00 in paint into this, I want to get it right...

3-4 coats of Interprotect 2000

3 coats Micron extra..

I've heard the Capt and others recommend a hard non ablative tie coat before the Micron.

What is main reason...?? Is it only for a permanent wear indicator with anti fouling properties..?

Any harm in going right to the Micron after last barrier coat tacks up..??

Ray

In Memory Walter K · Post by **In Memory Walter K** » Aug 20th, '11, 21:11

As I understand it, a first coat of a different color lets you know when the Micron extra has worn down to the point of needing retouching or repainting. My guess is that the hard coated ablative keeps giving you antifouling protection until you apply more Micron Extra.

captbone · Post by **captbone** » Aug 20th, '11, 23:21

I went two years of hard over the barrier coat before I went ablative.

I just wanted something to protect the barrier coat as I do wear off the ablative from beaching and running over jetskiers.

I would not want just ablative over barrier coat after all of the work.

tunawish · Post by **tunawish** » Aug 21st, '11, 10:02

Doesn't the hard coat loose it's affectiveness after a year anyway..??

captbone · Post by **captbone** » Aug 21st, '11, 10:23

At the end of the year when I haul, the ablative is all but gone. No growth on the old bottom paint. I am sure it looses some of its protection over time but its still better then nothing.

I didnt stager the colors, I have black hard paint under the black ablative.

tunawish · Post by **tunawish** » Aug 21st, '11, 11:03

captbone wrote:At the end of the year when I haul, the ablative is all but gone. No growth on the old bottom paint. I am sure it looses some of its protection over time but its still better then nothing.

I plan on 3 coats of ablative, I've gotten about a full season for each coat before I need to paint on another 3....
Especially with my seasons being shorter than they were before..

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Aug 21st, '11, 14:27

ray i don`t have answers all i can tell you is the capt. definitely has a point.i took phoenix down to gel coat and applied 4 coats of interprotect. i even remove jack stands and use wax paper so every coat covered the complete bottom moving stands 4 times and repainting every 12 hours , a real pain in the a-s . i did not use a hard tie coat of bottom paint and went to the ablative micron extra. black over white interprotect. every year i pull it out i get one or two areas the the hold 4 coats of interprotect flake off in addition to micron usually a 3" rounded area and always in a different place perhaps i should have heeded the words of the capt. now i live with it. every year sanding out the area to 6" and reapplying interprotect and micron. on the subject the Prop speed application did nothing for speed but keeps the ss shaft , rudders and nibral props clean.

captbone · Post by **captbone** » Aug 21st, '11, 16:25

I also alternated between the white and grey interprotect. It helped me get the best coverage without missing and will also let me know if there is any problem and at what level it goes to.

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Aug 21st, '11, 16:34

Previous Discussion http://bertram31.com/newbb/viewtopic.ph ... ght=#17722

The hard bottom paint does two things:

1. Acts as an effective antifouling last protection layer before the barrier coat shows through, but won't slough off.

2. By using a clearly different color than your choice of visable bottom paint, the color acts as an indicator, siginaling time to repaint.

By using a hard bottom paint as the first coat over the barrier coats, you'll have plenty of time to schedule maintenance coats before you're down to the barrier coat.

The barrier coats have no antifouling qualities what so ever and should never be allowed to be exposed to marine growth, (and subsequent sanding).

Remember, you CAN apply ablative paint over hard paint, but CANNOT apply hard paint over ablative. It will just flake off...

Br,

Patrick

JP Dalik · Post by **JP Dalik** » Aug 21st, '11, 17:15

Bob,

Regardless of what you used the interprotect should not be coming off. Maybe to much wax paper.

We just did a short haul after the full bottom job,

sandblast
interprotect 3 coats
bottom paint- all ablative one tie coat 2 build

results
no chips no dents no scratches
2.0 kts improved at low cruise 2200 25.3 kts loaded
1.2 kts top end improved

Not bad for the heavy girl she is. One day I'll find a magical propeller.

tunawish · Post by **tunawish** » Aug 21st, '11, 17:38

CaptPatrick wrote:Previous Discussion http://bertram31.com/newbb/viewtopic.ph ... ght=#17722

The hard bottom paint does two things:

1. Acts as an effective antifouling last protection layer before the barrier coat shows through, but won't slough off.

2. By using a clearly different color than your choice of visable bottom paint, the color acts as an indicator, siginaling time to repaint.

By using a hard bottom paint as the first coat over the barrier coats, you'll have plenty of time to schedule maintenance coats before you're down to the barrier coat.

The barrier coats have no antifouling qualities what so ever and should never be allowed to be exposed to marine growth, (and subsequent sanding).

Remember, you CAN apply ablative paint over hard paint, but CANNOT apply hard paint over ablative. It will just flake off...

Br,

Patrick

Thanks Capt Pat...So it basically protects the barrier coat from having to be sanded if it's ever exposed....

At the suggestions of many here, I'll be alternating white and grey barrier coats so I don't miss anything and be using the step back procedure at the jack stands Giff suggested...

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Aug 21st, '11, 18:50

So it basically protects the barrier coat from having to be sanded if it's ever exposed....

And if you'll use a different color for the hard paint, it'll let you know when to repaint.

Unless red is your finish color, use it as your hard coat...

When shifting jack stands and keel blocks when painting, use butcher paper, (shiny side up), rather than wax paper. Butcher paper is plastic coated and won't transfer the release like wax might.

Keel blocks can be easily moved around by using a 12 ton bottle jack. Only jack up just enough to move the block and never move jacks alone. Always have someone around as a spotter...

Below is the correct way to orient & stack concrete blocks

While these small boats only need 4 well placed jack stands, when painting it's safer to use at least one additional stand so that the load is never out of a four point balance.

Br,

Patrick

Marlin · Post by **Marlin** » Aug 21st, '11, 19:05

Capt, what an eye for detail, a real mason

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Aug 21st, '11, 21:27

jp i used the wax paper over the stands so it would not stick to the paint as i shifted the stands around after each coat of barrier coat did you do all three coats and then deal with the spots under the jack stands and blocks?how are you dealing with growth on shaft,rudders,props?

JP Dalik · Post by **JP Dalik** » Aug 22nd, '11, 08:11

Morning Bob,

We just moved the jack stands between each coat. In the spots where the blocks were they had to be done seperate, it just added some time no big deal.

As far as props rudders and shafts they all have prop speed on them, this is our 4th season using the product and it works well, just remember not to hit it with the pressure washer (it gets kinda fuzzy) on the last short haul I just wiped it all down with a rag.

bertram31.com

Barrier to antifouling..Is hard tie coat necassary??

Barrier to antifouling..Is hard tie coat necassary??

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