Got my rebuilt cylinder back from Southern Charm in the St. Pete, FL area....real nice folks. My cylinder turned out to be brass, so the rebuild cost was $350 vs. $190 for the aluminum cylinders....plus my piston and rod needed replacing and that was anotehr 200 smackers, so the total with shipping came to $575 or so....but its fixed and they polished it up like new.
800 745 0765 and the lady I dealt with is Pat. Top notch operation based on my experience.
Good to know we have another rebuild and parts source for our stuff.
UV
SeaStar steering cylinder rebuild
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In Memory of Vicroy
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- Location: Baton Rouge, LA
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Harry Babb
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In Memory of Vicroy
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- Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 09:19
- Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Harry - they changed the rod too and the piston which is attached about halfway along it. We have not been to the camp since I saw you that day for lunch....been too cold, then we went to Miami Beach, now its too cold again....shoot, it was 24 here this morning. We plan to go over there tomorrow for a couple of days as its supposed to get back into the 70s by Sunday and stay that way for a good while. The Miami break is about the only thing that saved my sanity this winter, been one of the worst in memory. Notice the CNIC ain't crowing a lot right now about global warming and his fraudulent Cap & Trade rip off.......I'm fixin to send His Donald a support letter....he's my man, he can fix what's going on.
UV
UV
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In Memory of Vicroy
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- Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 09:19
- Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Re installed and bled the rebuilt cylinder yesterday and all is well. Much smoother steering than I've had for years. One man bleeding is pretty simple if you connect some clear vinyl hose between the two bleeder ports on the cylinder and turn the wheel in one direction while adding oil thru a funnel and fitting at the helm....when you have gotten most of the bubbles out in that direction, start the other way and repeat....then use the autopilot to drive both ways some more until no bubbles out your funnel hose. Then close off the bleed ports on the cylincer and cycle some more and a little more air will come out.....an "air free" system will stop hard at both ends of the wheel travel rather than have some "mush" as it hits the end.
I devised a clever method of suspending the funnel with some twine from the electronics box so I sould just pour fluid right in without having to hold the funnel.....I strongly suggest you check your knots in the twine.....ask me how I know.....lots of red hyd. oil on my instrument panels.....&?X@%!!!!
Anyhow, all I have left to do is anchor the end of the linear rudder follower for the autopilot - it was sorta held in place with a rusty hose clamp and I'm gonna fabricate a nice stainless band clamp for it.
So ole AJ is back in business, nice feeling, and those block heaters are worth their weight in gold...both Cummins cranked on the first turn and ran almost smoke free.
UV
I devised a clever method of suspending the funnel with some twine from the electronics box so I sould just pour fluid right in without having to hold the funnel.....I strongly suggest you check your knots in the twine.....ask me how I know.....lots of red hyd. oil on my instrument panels.....&?X@%!!!!
Anyhow, all I have left to do is anchor the end of the linear rudder follower for the autopilot - it was sorta held in place with a rusty hose clamp and I'm gonna fabricate a nice stainless band clamp for it.
So ole AJ is back in business, nice feeling, and those block heaters are worth their weight in gold...both Cummins cranked on the first turn and ran almost smoke free.
UV
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