Morse Controls - rechrome or replace?
Moderators: CaptPatrick, mike ohlstein, Bruce
Morse Controls - rechrome or replace?
Starting on a few winter projects, most of which are cosmetic in nature.
I plan to re-do my upper and lower station instrument panels, but first I wanted to address the Morse controls for my lower station. I have polished the heck out of them and can't get them to look any better, though they are fully functional (see below).
My question is - are they easy to take apart and get rechromed or should I try to get parts and just replace the covers and arms? Or, replace with new new units altogether at a price of around $300-$400 each. Seems like a waste to replace something that is fully functional, however the controls are going to look pretty bad next to my re-done insturment panels if I leave them the way they are.
Suggestions as to what direction I should take?
Thanks in advance!
I plan to re-do my upper and lower station instrument panels, but first I wanted to address the Morse controls for my lower station. I have polished the heck out of them and can't get them to look any better, though they are fully functional (see below).
My question is - are they easy to take apart and get rechromed or should I try to get parts and just replace the covers and arms? Or, replace with new new units altogether at a price of around $300-$400 each. Seems like a waste to replace something that is fully functional, however the controls are going to look pretty bad next to my re-done insturment panels if I leave them the way they are.
Suggestions as to what direction I should take?
Thanks in advance!
Mack
1973 B31 "MAKO"
1973 B31 "MAKO"
- Brewster Minton
- Senior Member
- Posts: 1795
- Joined: Jun 30th, '06, 07:44
- Location: Hampton Bays NY
- Contact:
- In Memory Walter K
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2912
- Joined: Jun 30th, '06, 21:25
- Location: East Hampton LI, NY
- Contact:
I have the exact same ones and You can take the cover (hood) off as well as the arms and have them chromed. Then just reassemble. The "Guts" can stay where they are. Just mark what goes with what and keep everything in a similar position as it will be a while before you'll get the chromed parts back and you might forget.
- In Memory Walter K
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2912
- Joined: Jun 30th, '06, 21:25
- Location: East Hampton LI, NY
- Contact:
Thanks Walter. That is the answer I was hoping for. I forgot I had the extensions on the throttles, but I think I had them off once before. If I get into a pinch I can always track down the current parts source or go to ebay.
My flybridge controls look brand new, so that is where I would like to be with the lower helm.
Thanks again!
My flybridge controls look brand new, so that is where I would like to be with the lower helm.
Thanks again!
Mack
1973 B31 "MAKO"
1973 B31 "MAKO"
- JohnCranston
- Senior Member
- Posts: 737
- Joined: Jul 8th, '06, 17:50
- Location: Spring, TX; Freeport TX
Mac,
I don't know why they don't make the shifters and covers out of s.s. Seems like it's almost impossible to keep the chrome on them. Brian Barragy has single lever, duel function controls that are ss on his boats, but I can't think of the name, but, makes sense on a salt water boat. I have Micro Commanders, and they're chrome over brass. I just don't get it. Same thing goes for rod holders and outrigger bases. If you can't frequent your boat every few weeks or so, the damn corrosion will get you.
Sorry, just bitching.
John.
I don't know why they don't make the shifters and covers out of s.s. Seems like it's almost impossible to keep the chrome on them. Brian Barragy has single lever, duel function controls that are ss on his boats, but I can't think of the name, but, makes sense on a salt water boat. I have Micro Commanders, and they're chrome over brass. I just don't get it. Same thing goes for rod holders and outrigger bases. If you can't frequent your boat every few weeks or so, the damn corrosion will get you.
Sorry, just bitching.
John.
I'll never ruin a $50 buzz with a $4 sandwich
They make stainless steel replacement levers. I bought mine years ago from West Marine before I knew better.
Eddy G.
[img][img]http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10 ... C02291.jpg[/img][/img]
Eddy G.
[img][img]http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee10 ... C02291.jpg[/img][/img]
- Hyena Love
- Senior Member
- Posts: 309
- Joined: Jun 30th, '06, 09:54
Replacements
The replacements (from Teleflex/Morse) are even worse than the originals.
I replaced mine, and in what seemed like no time, the arms looked even worse that my originals.
Its almost like, on the new ones, thats chrome paint or something.
The "box" portion is relatively easy to polish up. Try a bench buffer.
I replaced mine, and in what seemed like no time, the arms looked even worse that my originals.
Its almost like, on the new ones, thats chrome paint or something.
The "box" portion is relatively easy to polish up. Try a bench buffer.
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 123
- Joined: Jul 5th, '06, 11:51
- Location: Trapped at work planning my escape
I'm considering replacing my control arms as well. Found these at Ongaro Marine... http://www.ongaromarine.com/knobs.htm
Anyone had any experience with these?
Paul J
1973 B28 - PALADIN
Anyone had any experience with these?
Paul J
1973 B28 - PALADIN
- Hyena Love
- Senior Member
- Posts: 309
- Joined: Jun 30th, '06, 09:54
I think I have been back to TSL once, maybe twice, since your trip.
Unfortunately, I missed last year. Hopefully, I'm taking my wife down sometime soon.
On my replacements, I waxed them up, and tried to keep C-X on them. But, post Hurry Ike, my boat was in an open slip for 18 months, and that sure did not help. I cleaned it regularly, Nevertheless, my stuff looks as bad now as the ones I replaced.
Unfortunately, I missed last year. Hopefully, I'm taking my wife down sometime soon.
On my replacements, I waxed them up, and tried to keep C-X on them. But, post Hurry Ike, my boat was in an open slip for 18 months, and that sure did not help. I cleaned it regularly, Nevertheless, my stuff looks as bad now as the ones I replaced.
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 267
- Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 13:30
- Location: Nassau,Bahamas
- Contact:
Ongaro replacement's for the Morse levers are stainless steel and do not pit as the chromed pot metal levers............only thing I don't like about them is that most of one side of them is hollowed, the inside closest to the cover........just looks odd when first changed out is all.......and feels odd at first....if you make small throttle adjustments as I do by forwarding the lever by the shaft as opposed to by the knob and there's a hollow instead of solid material as was there before!
Preston Burrows
1976 B28 FBC
BERF1398M76J-285
1976 B28 FBC
BERF1398M76J-285
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 267
- Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 13:30
- Location: Nassau,Bahamas
- Contact:
Paul:
Not showing the hollowed side of the control arms in their photo's etc is what probably annoyed me more than the fact that they are hollowed and made me notice it more after I installed them !
Here's a photo showing the 'hollow.'
I would think they are still made the same way, I bought and installed mine in 2007, perhaps your supplier can verify.
Not showing the hollowed side of the control arms in their photo's etc is what probably annoyed me more than the fact that they are hollowed and made me notice it more after I installed them !
Here's a photo showing the 'hollow.'
I would think they are still made the same way, I bought and installed mine in 2007, perhaps your supplier can verify.
Preston Burrows
1976 B28 FBC
BERF1398M76J-285
1976 B28 FBC
BERF1398M76J-285
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 39 guests