MArks bertie 25 rebuild

[markgarratt]

Hi all,
I thought i would start this thread on my bertie 25:

About the boat, I have owned this boat for 4 years, running twin drives, chev 165 -250CI with MR-1 drives, about 80 model but not sure... plagued with problems, however on top of them now, so its time for rebuild. befor i hear you ay convert to diesel in oz the d v's P is somethin the asset cost wont recoupe so they stay.

My plan is to gut the boat, leaving in the engines and drives leaving alll the cabling in place, and the helms in tact.....however i am removing the gauges from their mounts lifting them up with support pins so i can sand/paint without masking to paint them - want to keep this close to original. however the rest is gooing going gorn......

To date
1) I have in 4 full days removed all the interior, (that went to the 2 ulpolstry dude ready for me when i need it.
2) All the ply is old and water damaged (rotted) so out with that and have new marine ply to rebuild with. the leak was fixed but the mouldy wood is RS
3) Window frame out - going for new glass and perspecx in the sides.
all cubbords out ( going for a new look and design).
4) every bit of hanging on plastic, hook, clip, vent has been removed.
5) have cut new head linings for the V-Berth as the old one looks shit, and the 2nd 1/2 in the front was just the gel coat, so going to use 6mm and 10mmfoam under to create a cosy envioroment..

Ok to the bertram guys, i need you advice on the following.

1) the window frames are in aluminuim should i paint them in white to match the new colour. The current look is weathered.

2)I have a few gauges that Dont work like engine hour, tilt angle that are taking up room on the helm, should i remove and fill ???. I have seen the post about Show me your helm, but i would like to keep the current gauges they work and as i have 2 stations would be a huge cost to replace with new.

3) Staunchons - holding the Rails on are stained, never been polished should i get them chrommed or just buy new SS ones again.

4) There was alumimum trim on the fly bridge floor, it ran from left to right...It ran from starbourd light to port light and it is sort of semi circle it also ri=uns arount the front on the floor of the FB so if I was in the lower station it would be my roof?? hope that makes sense, however the question is should i keep it of just fill it / smooth it and have no trim.

5) Out side my boat at the gunwhale i have again alumium moulding whis is very corroded, on all reports this thpe is hard to get if you can get it. so is the plastic one any good? do i need them in metal? i am lost on this one....

6) my next question will be - order of painting I have serched on this site however cannot find anything on this one but if you know the url/link I would love to see it..but this is for another day.

wel enough for now on this just have a look at the crane bringing it home but I am going to use this as my sounding board

If any of you have any thoughts on what you see please post your suggestions as I love to see/hear your ideas.[img][img]http://i888.photobucket.com/albums/ac88 ... e25025.jpg[/img][/img][img][img]http://i888.photobucket.com/albums/ac88 ... e25022.jpg[/img][/img][img][img]http://i888.photobucket.com/albums/ac88 ... e25019.jpg[/img][/img]

[MarkS]

Mark,
My experience with the rail mount fittings was to re-chrome. The replacements were never quite exact as far as mounting holes go even though there would have been a pretty good savings in replace vs
re-chrome I didn't want a bumch of holes to fill.

There are some very cool interiors views over on the Bertram 25 website. Ron Cahoon's boat "Leslins" had a custom bench on the port that was curved and worth a look. This of course was more of a "howdy boat" so depending on your intension of use maybe workable maybe not.

I retained all my original gauges and made them work. I took the purist route and kept everything original. Just my way not right or wrong but am glad I did in the end.

You have a big job ahead, enjoy it. (sort of)

Mark

http://www.25bertram.com/4images/index. ... 0&limit=12

http://www.25bertram.com/index.html

http://simplifying.net/phpbb/index.php

[markgarratt]

Ok guys I have removed all the FB gear, totaly gutted the deck of all fittings and inside as well, and I am fitting all the new timberwork before I start Preping for painting.
I will be using a 2k paint proberly Northane product



QUestion is my order of operation, and this is my plan, can you please advise if I am either right or wrong.

1) Wash the boat down with NO soaps

2) Wipe over the whole boat with grease and wax remover.

3) Start at one end work my way round the entire boat and sand with 80grit dry - orbital sander+ hand on the diamond pattern, also using scotchbright red on the tread pattern

4) Again wipe over boat again with grease and wax remover.

5)go and fill in all my holes, spider cracks, and repairs - get them sound wet sand smooth

5)Shoot with primer, Do i NEed this ?? the hull is in good gondition open for opinion or can I spot prime.

7) Spray on a guide coat and wet rub 600 back to primer coat.
8) Allow to dry (2 days) then scuff 800 grit dry and wipe over with grease and wax remover.

9) On with the undercoat I will be doing this in 3 stages . Inside sleaping area 1 boat out sideand fly 2 and deck and down stairs station 3
10) scuff down with 800 and wax remover 2nd coat of under coat 2 days wait

11) On with the colour again in the 3 stages.

Can you please advise if I have missed anything that you would deam nesesary. :?:

[markgarratt]

Mark,
My experience with the rail mount fittings was to re-chrome. The replacements were never quite exact as far as mounting holes go even though there would have been a pretty good savings in replace vs
re-chrome I didn't want a bumch of holes to fill.

There are some very cool interiors views over on the Bertram 25 website. Ron Cahoon's boat "Leslins" had a custom bench on the port that was curved and worth a look. This of course was more of a "howdy boat" so depending on your intension of use maybe workable maybe not.

I retained all my original gauges and made them work. I took the purist route and kept everything original. Just my way not right or wrong but am glad I did in the end.




http://www.25bertram.com/4images/index. ... 0&limit=12

http://www.25bertram.com/index.html

http://simplifying.net/phpbb/index.php

Thanks for that, I agree about the holes , so I am seriously looking at re - chroming, as for the gauges i have the engine hour as a double up and the tilt angle gauge just nevIr worked so I will remove and fill but as for the rest of the gauges , I am going to remove them , repaint he original mercruiser panels in 2k and refit the gauges, I am also looking at fitting dual operational controls in the FB and leaving the dual below .

Mark