when can i order the new shafts in the repower process

fishlook · Post by **fishlook** » Apr 7th, '10, 20:24

I understand my propellor shop will get the new shaft and cut the key and taper into it.

Can i get close enough on the length prior to getting the engines in place? or is there no way to speed up this process.

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Apr 7th, '10, 21:22

yes but you have to make a engine jig for cummins . do you have the motor mounts and the shaft coupling??

fishlook · Post by **fishlook** » Apr 8th, '10, 07:17

i have the mounts, need to order coupling (i assume from prop shop?).

when i say the mounts, i have the cummins mounts. we're a couple weeks away from building caps on stringers and building "towers" for engine mounts.

jay

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Apr 8th, '10, 07:33

the reason i asked is beause i built a differant type of engine jig. i desigh a no/fault jig using the mounts and the prop. coupling (mounted backward) to imitate 10 degree down angle of your zf 220 irm gears so the jig is the same as cummins 6bta with gears no errors!!buy propellar coupling and i will walk you thru it.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Apr 8th, '10, 11:13

Sure it can be done.

But...

...on more then one occasion I have had customers know the exact size the shaft needed to be only to have something change and have to modify shaft length. Now to modify the shaft to a shorter length is an easy fix...making it longer is the real trick...one which can be the cost of a new shaft.

I always recommend getting it all in and then cut the shaft to size... if your in a time crunch or find a good deal on shafting, you could always have the Tapered End finished leaving the OAL longer by a few inches to be cut and keyed at a later date.

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Apr 8th, '10, 12:46

I always recommend getting it all in and then cut the shaft to size... if your in a time crunch or find a good deal on shafting, you could always have the Tapered End finished leaving the OAL longer by a few inches to be cut and keyed at a later date.

Amen, Brother... O'Brian's Law must be observed at all cost.

Bruce · Post by **Bruce** » Apr 8th, '10, 13:52

Take it from someone who has done many repowers with shaft changes, wait till the engines and struts are in where they will live happily ever after except for the final alignment tweaking.

Except for trying to get something before the price goes up, theres no reason to rush.

I've built many jigs and things have turned out fine with them but in most cases I used them because engine fit was down to inches.

That's not a concern with the 31.

scenarioL113 · Post by **scenarioL113** » Apr 8th, '10, 17:03

I just installed my new shafts.

I waited until the engines were in, there were many factors I was worried about and decided to wait. I built custom brackets and perches and had no idea where they were going to lay until we started piecing them together.

I am glad to say they are on the money.

I am finally down to the last 30 or 40 things to do before this repower/diesel conversion hits the water. (there was probably 800 things to do on the original list when I got started....LOL!)

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Apr 8th, '10, 22:46

i will not assume, cummins uses barry mounts is that what you have ??

Bob H. · Post by **Bob H.** » Apr 15th, '10, 18:57

Use mock up shafts until you have the engines just where you want them...I bought stock cummins engine mounts and they are still sitting on the shelf...to get the engine JUST right i had to make all my engine and transmission mounts. Hang the transmission get the shaft angle right and line up off rudder...I held my shaft to one side of rudder so i can drop shaft without dropping rudder....then fab mounts ..I made mock ups using plywood...then I hung the transmission on the engine and built the ramps and mounts to fit the engine beds..Then and only then measure and order shafts..BH

scot · Post by **scot** » Apr 15th, '10, 20:38

Bob,

That faired engine bay is pure eye candy. Although it looks great, the best part is down the road, easy cleaning for life. You won't even need a brush, just wipe it clean with a paper towel.

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Apr 15th, '10, 22:59

everybody contemplating a repower to cummins please print this picture.this port engine is 1000% prepare . notice the fuel filter relocation kit perfectly installed with threaded fitting . notice engine oil removal pipe at rear of oilpan with threaded fittings .all of this is done before installation .don`t pm me this is the picture to follow .perfect job can change oil and fuel filters with suit on!!!all maintenace removal faces companion way.the starboard has the oil filter relocation kit . both oil dip sticks face companion way no reaching over engine for anything.

Bob H. · Post by **Bob H.** » Apr 16th, '10, 18:36

Scot, Bob, Fish, Fairing the bilge s**cks...but well worth the effort..painted the rear bilge last week will post that next week...thanks for the kudos Bob...I listened and watched what YOU guys did before me..Best advice for new guys LISTEN, WATCH, ASK...then build. Here is a picture of the plywood engine mounts I fabbed up prior to buying any metal. Make the engines and mounts fit your boat, off the shelf stuff may cause you more grief than they are worth..my2 cents..BH

In Memory Walter K · Post by **In Memory Walter K** » Apr 16th, '10, 21:14

Bob- I am mightily impressed! Look forward to drooling over it in Greenport! Walter

bertram31.com

when can i order the new shafts in the repower process

when can i order the new shafts in the repower process

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