question about the work involved in replacing gas tank
Moderators: CaptPatrick, mike ohlstein, Bruce
question about the work involved in replacing gas tank
What is involved in taking the deck off? Is it just labor intensive or is there a certain skill set needed for the job? Same question regarding removal and installation of fuel tank. Is there any part I can do on my own? What would I expect to pay someone if I can't do it an my own? I am mechanically inclined...just new to working on these types of boats.
What deck do you have? I had a wood deck that was screwed down, and replaced that with a Glasstech deck that also screws down. If its just screwed down, not a big deal. Getting the tank out isn't that hard--its the otehr stuff. When I had mine out, I replaced the bulkhead aft of the motors, all the deck supports, and the little bulkhead aft of the tank. That took some time.
If you just have to take a screwed-down deck off, you can do that in a couple hours. The tank may take a little mroe to cut away whatever foam you can, and then free the tank from whatever is holding it down. Then you need to clean up what was under the tank (wet foam in my case), and be careful of the raceway for bilge water--you may want to replace that. Then it depends on your tank install. A new f'glass tank can be foamed in. I'd avoid foam for an aluminum tank. Mine sits on closed cell neoprene strips as recommended and bought from the tank builder.
There's other stuff, but it depends on what you have and what you need/want to do.
John
If you just have to take a screwed-down deck off, you can do that in a couple hours. The tank may take a little mroe to cut away whatever foam you can, and then free the tank from whatever is holding it down. Then you need to clean up what was under the tank (wet foam in my case), and be careful of the raceway for bilge water--you may want to replace that. Then it depends on your tank install. A new f'glass tank can be foamed in. I'd avoid foam for an aluminum tank. Mine sits on closed cell neoprene strips as recommended and bought from the tank builder.
There's other stuff, but it depends on what you have and what you need/want to do.
John
It's a job...but pretty much straight forward.
Remove cockpit panels, motor hatchs, hatches, then the screws holding the deck down. Remove the deck supports. If tank is foamed in place do your best to cut the foam free from the stringers ( I used a 1" band saw blade...but a long serrated knife may work too), then pry, jack the tank up ( I put a beam across the gunnel and clamped a come-a-long to one end while using a car scissor jack and a pry bar to get the tank to pop free, once it popped it was easy, but quite stubborn to get started)...clean up and get ready to install the new.
Remove cockpit panels, motor hatchs, hatches, then the screws holding the deck down. Remove the deck supports. If tank is foamed in place do your best to cut the foam free from the stringers ( I used a 1" band saw blade...but a long serrated knife may work too), then pry, jack the tank up ( I put a beam across the gunnel and clamped a come-a-long to one end while using a car scissor jack and a pry bar to get the tank to pop free, once it popped it was easy, but quite stubborn to get started)...clean up and get ready to install the new.
Yup, that's it. A few cold ones along the way helped alot. That, and there are a number of us here who have suffered through it and can probably help with most questions. I got alot of good advice from the folks here, and especially from Capt. Patrick. I spent around $2700 in materials for the stuff I did, including the tank. The guys at the yard lifted and dropped the new tank is using a crane--not needed, but helpful.sim wrote:It's a job...but pretty much straight forward.
Remove cockpit panels, motor hatchs, hatches, then the screws holding the deck down. Remove the deck supports. If tank is foamed in place do your best to cut the foam free from the stringers ( I used a 1" band saw blade...but a long serrated knife may work too), then pry, jack the tank up ( I put a beam across the gunnel and clamped a come-a-long to one end while using a car scissor jack and a pry bar to get the tank to pop free, once it popped it was easy, but quite stubborn to get started)...clean up and get ready to install the new.
The 3 piece decks if installed properly can be removed with engine boxes and on the dock in 2 hours. I've done it. Otherwise it can be a day.
Plywood decks on the other hand have taken a day or more especially if they are screwed down and glass was layed over the screws.
I've been able depending on how much tabbing or bondo acting as glue on the bottom of the tank, get tanks out in 3 to 4 hours after the deck is clear and up to a day and a half.
Sometimes its necessary to remove aft or front bulkhead and drive wedges under the tank to break the bondo holding it down. Many times you have to let the wedges sit and do their thing.
Plywood decks on the other hand have taken a day or more especially if they are screwed down and glass was layed over the screws.
I've been able depending on how much tabbing or bondo acting as glue on the bottom of the tank, get tanks out in 3 to 4 hours after the deck is clear and up to a day and a half.
Sometimes its necessary to remove aft or front bulkhead and drive wedges under the tank to break the bondo holding it down. Many times you have to let the wedges sit and do their thing.
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