Strut pad and rudder shelf replacement

[John F.]

These are other possible winter projects. I've read through the stuff on making the one piece connected rudders shelf, but these were done on boats with the rudders where the tiller arms connect at the top of the rudder shaft. The tiller arms on my 31 are the other style, where they attach to the rudder below the shelf. The problem is that I cannot get the shelf low enough to go under the exhaust to extend to the outboard stringer--I'd need about another inch of clearance. Any ideas?

Do you have to do a realigment every time you replace a strut pad, or if I'm careful, will I be able to get away without doing a realignment.

Thanks again--trying to plan out my winter projects.

John F.

[JP Dalik]

If your removing just the pad on the inside of the boat you should be able to get away with it..

I'd use a bottle jack under the strut with a little "up pressure" to make sure the it stays in place. Remove the bolts then remove the old pad and replace with new, maybe a little blue tape over the holes so the bottle jack and strut don't get covered in goo when you rebond the new pad.

The struts generally have little shims or putty keeping them at the correct alignment points for the shaft to pass through. As long as the strut doesn't move you should be good.

[Tony Meola]

John

I had the same issue since I did not move my exhaust during the repower. We glassed a support to the hull then also bolted supports into the stingers. I don't think mine are going anywhere. They seem solid as a rock. Not sure if the pics I have are clear. Give me a day to hunt to see if I have a good shot of the support.

[John F.]

JP/Tony-

Thanks for the replies. Tony, pics would be great.

John

[Tony Meola]

John

I have two pics. Not real clear but will give you the idea. I don't have a snapfish account to download from so if you give me your email, I will try and send them to you, and try and explain what you are looking at for supports.

[John F.]

Tony--

pm sent

John