engine test stand

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Major
Posts: 93
Joined: Apr 8th, '07, 12:45
Location: SC

engine test stand

Post by Major »

Have any of you made a tast stand for an engine? I havent run the engines we planned to use in our boat in years and i want to try to start them. They are 2 diesel 4BT's with the transmissions attached. I do have the throttle and gauges we were going to use so that wont be an issue. It would also be nice if i could move them around with a forklift.

I dont realy need any diagnotics other than the standard gauges unless they would be reletivly easy to intigrate.

On another note do any of you have any tips to prep the engines to prevent any damage from starting after they have been sitting? They were stored on pallets under a shelter with a tarp over them. With that said some parts are not rust free. I wouldnt mind stripping the paint off and repainting them too. Are there any tools that will work other than a bead blaster to strip it? I do have a compressor close to them.
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In Memory of Vicroy
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Post by In Memory of Vicroy »

Fuel 'em and fire 'em. My 6BTAs sat for more than a year after Katrina and we just put new batteries in and fired them up.....I spoke to several people I trust and they all said the same, just fire them up and make sure your oil pressure comes up in about 10 seconds or so. Pre-lubing, etc is just not necessary on an eninge that size.

The engine parts that are the most critical rust-wise are the expansion tank and exhaust manifold-to-turbo joint and bolts. The oil pan is aluminum.

UV
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Mikey
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Post by Mikey »

My 6BTA's sat for seven years. We pulled the injectors, poured oil down the chutes, cranked them to get oil pressure, reinstalled the injectors, primed'em and they fired right up.
Mikey
3/18/1963 - -31-327 factory hardtop express, the only one left.
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits.
-Albert Einstein
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Carl
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Post by Carl »

We fired Sr's motors up right on the pallet. Of course clamp or bolt in place utlizing the motor mounts, if not already done so.

Intake into a bucket of water and placed a tarp under the dumps so not to get water all over the tranny.
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Rawleigh
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Post by Rawleigh »

Rig yourself up something a little more substantial, but similar to this:

http://www.mygaragestore.com/detail.aspx?ID=1011
Rawleigh
1966 FBC 31
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Mikey
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Post by Mikey »

When just starting them and not doing sudden acceleration tests I have bolted a 2x4 across the bell housing at an angle so as to touch the floor. Worked for me for ever. Make sure it's on the side where the torque will tend to push it or as they say, "your results amy vary."
Mikey
3/18/1963 - -31-327 factory hardtop express, the only one left.
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits.
-Albert Einstein
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Harry Babb
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Post by Harry Babb »

As you can see from the pics I ran my 6B's sitting on the shipping pallets.....no big deal.....I ran started them.....warmed them up and ran them for an hour or so.....accelerating them thru the throttle ranges from idle to full throttle.

They never moved. I understand the the 4B's vibrate much more than the 6's.......I personally have never ran a 4, its just what I think I have heard but just sink a couple of lag bolts thru the mounts into the wood pallet.

If I had not already had the shipping pallets most likely I would have just nailed some 6x6 blocks to a pallet and off to the races.....trust me....its like the others here have stated.....its no big deal.....just set those puppys on a solid pallet and let um roll.

Harry

Image

Image
hb
Major
Posts: 93
Joined: Apr 8th, '07, 12:45
Location: SC

Post by Major »

As of now the transmissions are attached. Should i remove them for any reason or just leave them on there? They are the wrong ratio so removing them isnt really an issue. I went out and took a look at the pallets and i think ill need to atleast mount them to some 6x6 blocks. They are just sitting on the pallets and even those dont look great.

If i were to repaint them would a needle scaler be the easiest way to strip the paint? Its chipping off where the boatyard painted them without good prep. What are some good paints to use along with a good solvet to prep with?

Its good to know altleast one of my projects turned out to be simpler than i thought.

Thanks,

Major
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Harry Babb
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Post by Harry Babb »

Removing the transmissions is up to you......It does not matter if you test run the engine with or without a transmission.

I painted my Cummins with an Epoxy primer and a Urethane top coat. The paint I used is a product of Mobile Paint...or Mobile BLP Paints.

I have painted several engines with this combination and I have been really satisfied.

After needle scaling the engine I would treat the bare metal areas with a product called Corroseal or "Loctite Extend".....you will find Corroseal advertised in Boats and Harbors or just google it. I had to order Corroseal from the plant on the west coast. The legs that support my boat house are steel I beams. Last summer I had them painted and used the Corroseal to treat the rusted areas before final painting......so far so good. Here in South Alabama we can find the Extend at places that carry Loctite products......like Motion Industries or Mader Bearing.

Harry
hb
Major
Posts: 93
Joined: Apr 8th, '07, 12:45
Location: SC

Post by Major »

Thanks for the suggestions everyone. Ill look into those coatings as well since it sounds like you've had a good experience with them.

On a side note.... I cant believe some of the work ive seen on this site. Yall truly have me envious. It seems every build thread has some cool feature that stands out to me. Hopefully ill get some free time and money soon so i can use some of the ideas ive seen here.

Thanks yet again,

Major
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