Will a hard top increase the roll of a 28 SF?

daydreams · Post by **daydreams** » Oct 31st, '09, 13:14

I want to add a 5' x 7' aluminum top [made as light as possible] with vinyl curtains / sides to my 28 SF.
Does anyone know if this will increase the rock & roll more then a canvas top will?
I would hate to spend the time and money only to find that I made a mistake.
Thanks
Gary

In Memory Walter K · Post by **In Memory Walter K** » Oct 31st, '09, 17:21

I assume this is to replace a canvas Bimini top/bridge enclosure? If you presently have nothing up there, anything would add a little something to the 28's inherent rock and roll. In the wonderful world of trade-offs though, you will not be sorry for adding a bridge enclosure. I question why you'd want an aluminum top. Yes, canvas (whether a Bimini or stretched fabric over a frame) will eventually have to be replaced, but is the lightest solution. It's the heavier frame to support an aluminum top (or fiberglass one) that's going to give you the weight that will affect your rock & roll concern. Between the choices, I'd prefer fiberglass over aluminum. Straight canvas/bimini with sides would be the lightest. One man's opinion. You'll probably get more. Walter

cmccool · Post by **cmccool** » Oct 31st, '09, 19:28

An Atlantic Towers top comes in around 100lbs and gives you a place to mount radar, antennas etc. The 60lbs or so extra weight over a wet canvas top will add somewhat to your roll but is well worth it for the convenience.

If you have the original bench seat up on the flybridge, I highly recommend you check to see if it is waterlogged. I converted my flybridge to an express and it was all I could do to get the bottom portion of the seat off the roof. It weighed well over 150 pounds by itself. If your seats are waterlogged you could replace them, add a hardtop, and be ahead of the game weight wise.

The other thing to minimize rock and roll is to install oversize rudders, if you haven't already. They allow you to steer exactly where you want instead of being at the mercy of wind and waves.

Cliff

daydreams · Post by **daydreams** » Nov 1st, '09, 10:22

Thanks for the info.
The wet seat is very interesting.
I guess if I can keep the added weight to about 100lbs that isn't much of a change.
I am between a canvas top or lexan / 1/8" starboard [if available], etc.
I guess maybe the white, waxed type canvas is the best choice?
It seams to not absorb water and lasts longer then the cotton type canvas.

In Memory of Vicroy · Post by **In Memory of Vicroy** » Nov 1st, '09, 16:59

Use Stamoid fabric and have it sewn with the GoreTex thread if you want it to last. My enclosure, including the fabric laced over the half tower and cockpit sun shade, is Stamoid, going on 8 years and good as new.....I used to get 4 years max out of Sunbrella type canvas.

Cost a little more but worth it.

UV

Charlie · Post by **Charlie** » Nov 2nd, '09, 10:55

Go to http://www.boattowers.com/PhotosRadarArches.htm
The photo to click on is the one named Bertram 1990-31'. It is my 28B 1973. Gabe has the label screwed up. What you have a radar arch with a cantilevered bimini top. I then had the guy who's house is in the background, Paul at Garden State Canvas make the bimini and a three sided enclosure.
Gabe is charging $1250 for the re-enforced arch and $890 for the cantilevered bimini.
Mention my name and get a discount on top of that.

Forgetabout Atlantic Towers and go to best welder around, Gabe at Metal Creations.

PS I helped Gabe design the cantilevered section for Gabe. It worked out very well and added very little weight over the 3 bow stainless bimini with it's stainless drop legs instead of fabric straps.

daydreams · Post by **daydreams** » Nov 2nd, '09, 12:27

I guess the stamoid canvas is what my bridge cover was made of its probably 8-10 yeard old, dirty but still does the job. [it came with the boat]
The last canvas I had made was 10 years ago and I just said make it black.
I have been designing a top on paper for 2 years now. Now I have a new option the bimini attached to an arch. [kinda like trhe new boats with the fiberglass arches]. Thanks alot [only kidding]. Its a good idea.
Thanks
Gary

daydreams · Post by **daydreams** » Nov 2nd, '09, 17:16

Charlie, I loooked at the picture its looks great, but the more I looked at it I realize that if you cut off the top of the double piped arch use one piece for the front of the hard top frame and the other for the rear of the hard top frame and with the pipes already in the bimini top the weight will be almost the same for a hard top. [when I say hard top I mean aluminum frame with a lexan or stamoid or similar top. Ether way does 5' x 7' sound about right for the size of the top.
Thanks
Gary

Charlie · Post by **Charlie** » Nov 2nd, '09, 21:08

I don't remember the top size; but 5x7 sound too small. I would guess 7x8

Hyena Love · Post by **Hyena Love** » Nov 4th, '09, 14:41

In a word, yes.

Put another fat boy on the flybridge with me, and I swear at times I can almost reach out and touch the swells.

Still not reason not to do it. Getting rid of that rattling, flapping, shaky POS bimini was one of my better moves.

daydreams · Post by **daydreams** » Nov 5th, '09, 08:43

Reach out and touch the swells from the flybridge. Thats a picture Id love to have on my wall.
Charlie, does your top raddle bad, and how do you keep it from folding up.
I don't really want a top over my head all the time. The open view is why I want a bridge.

Eddy G · Post by **Eddy G** » Nov 6th, '09, 10:48

I have agonized over installing a rigid framed top for my B28 for years. Mine came with a good bimini with 3 sided enclosure. It's over 12 years old now and still slick and soft as day one so it must be the good material Vic mentioned. My main reason for going rigid would be to install radar.
The enclosure keeps the top very sturdy and it bearly moves even in the rough stuff. I replaced the front U zip flap with Strataglass because the old Eisenglass was scratched from rolling it up. Now I hang the flap up under the bimini when open and after five years, it is clear as new.
I will go rigid frame if and when my bimini craps out.
Eddy G.

daydreams · Post by **daydreams** » Nov 7th, '09, 17:47

I know you 31 guys don't like these 28's.
I guess beauty really is in the eye of the beholder.
Gotta Go is a nice looking boat.

In Memory of Vicroy · Post by **In Memory of Vicroy** » Nov 7th, '09, 18:21

It is one of the nicest Hyena Boats around.

UV

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Nov 8th, '09, 08:19

daydreams wrote:I know you 31 guys don't like these 28's.
I guess beauty really is in the eye of the beholder.
Gotta Go is a nice looking boat.

I don't think it is that we don't like the 28...it's just that we like the 31 better....

Bill Fuller · Post by **Bill Fuller** » Nov 8th, '09, 11:48

My B28 certainly is not as nice as Eddy's, but it aint too bad.
I ran the boat for about 10 years with a radar arch and canvas bimini with enclosure. Then had the half tower/hard top installed. I really did not notice any significant difference in the amount of roll. If there was a difference, I have completely forgotton about it! I love the hard top and would never go back. Here are a couple of pictures.

My son on the bridge.

Bill

Eddy G · Post by **Eddy G** » Nov 9th, '09, 09:13

Thanks guys. I'm just glad that us B28 owners are accepted here on the 31 site. I got a lot of valuable help here when I did my repower a few years ago.
Bill, I see you hang your front u zip flap up under your top too. It sure makes it easy and keeps the scratches away. Dammit, ya'll got me thinking about half towers again.

Eddy G.

daydreams · Post by **daydreams** » Nov 10th, '09, 21:12

Another beautiful boat. Thanks, I'm doing the hard top.
I have to admit all Bertrams are beautiful boats.
Maybe because I have no interest in a boat over 35' but they just don't seem to have the same flare and diversity as the under 35's.
Just my opinion.
Gary

bertram31.com

Will a hard top increase the roll of a 28 SF?

Will a hard top increase the roll of a 28 SF?

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