Aft window replacements

Ripsangler · Post by **Ripsangler** » Oct 31st, '09, 08:37

I just purchased a 1975 31 Bertram FB that needs some work. I've seen some sharp aft cabin windows shaped like a tear drop (Sea Nile). Where can these be purchased? Your site is a great source of info. Thanks for the hard work. Kurt

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Oct 31st, '09, 10:37

Kurt,

Again Welcome Aboard & thanks!

No such animal available for purchase... These types of windows are all custom, usually done by the owner or his designated craftsmen.

Later today, I'll upload some images of how I do the aft cabin bulkhead and windows...

Br,

Patrick

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Oct 31st, '09, 10:55

http://bertram31.com/hancock/img/bulkhead/

IRGuy · Post by **IRGuy** » Oct 31st, '09, 13:42

Capt Pat...

Well.. Great set of pics and now I have some more ideas about my cabin aft bulkhesd windows.

Plus.. you have given me a new use for old storage batteries!

As usual, I very much enjoy the pics you post.. Thanks!

coolair · Post by **coolair** » Oct 31st, '09, 22:34

as usual amazing pics and amazing work. I seriously am considering just bringing my boat up there and just letting you redo the whole damn thing.

Ripsangler · Post by **Ripsangler** » Nov 1st, '09, 09:03

Thanks for the pics Capt. Pat. Those bulkheads came out great. :-D

Capt.Frank · Post by **Capt.Frank** » Nov 1st, '09, 09:11

Patrick,
Is that Fiberglass skin you put on the bulked? Why is the one side 1/4" longer than the other?

Thanks
Frank

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Nov 1st, '09, 10:46

Frank,

All of the laminate is heavy thickness Formica. The second panel of ply was traced out, rough cut, and then trimed flush to the first panel with the router. Similarly, the laminate is over cut and then trimmed back. Everything matches the first panel.

Rough cut and bonded together:

Trimmed:

Br,

Patrick

IRGuy · Post by **IRGuy** » Nov 1st, '09, 11:02

Capt Pat...

Can you please tell us how you finish off the trim around the windows?

I assume you use the "ledge" to support the window glazing, and I am wondering what you use to set the windows and hold them in place and allow for differences in expansion/contraction.. plus I am interested in the method you use to finish the trim.

Thanks!

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Nov 1st, '09, 14:02

All of my windows are bedded with SikaFlex 295 UV. A rundown on setting fixed glass into a boat is covered under the Tips topic entitled: Basic Boat Window Installation

On Hancock's B31, the aft window frames, including the frame for the door window, are made from 1/4" plywood, radiused, faired, and glassed over with epoxy and two layers of veil.

The exterior roundover of the window port themselves were also glased over in the same manner.

Br,

Patrick

capt2kids · Post by **capt2kids** » Nov 1st, '09, 18:38

Hey Kurt:

I think we both could use those panels. What a great job Capt. Pat.
If you make urs look like that, make me a spare set too.

bob

jspiezio · Post by **jspiezio** » Nov 1st, '09, 19:56

THose windows are fantastic CP

Ripsangler · Post by **Ripsangler** » Nov 1st, '09, 20:07

Bob, it looks like I'm redoing my whole aft bulkhead. I'll keep you posted. Capt. PAt makes it look easy. We'll see. Kurt

Capt.Frank · Post by **Capt.Frank** » Nov 1st, '09, 22:53

Thanks Patrick.
The extra 1-2" you added in front of the bulked for noise or just space? I would like to see some pic's of the door. It looks like you build a pocket for it? You make it look so easy.
If you were planning to redo the rear bulked would you do the side windows first? or could they be replace later? or would that be the time?

Thanks
Frank

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Nov 1st, '09, 23:13

Frank,

Hancock's B31 was originally a Sportfish. In adding the bulkhead, I didn't like where it would be positioned if I went straight up from the engine bulkhead. By adding the 2 or so inches I was able to get a better placement overhead. No pocket...

It shouldn't make much difference which you do first... My preference is to do it all at the same time.

I'll have to round up some images of the cabin door. Done the same way as the bulkhead, solid 1", laminated with Formica, piano hinge, right hand swing in, rectangular window w/radiused corners.

Br,

Patrick

coolair · Post by **coolair** » Nov 1st, '09, 23:36

ok i just realized this, you used wood, why not cosa board or one of the others?

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Nov 2nd, '09, 03:01

Matt,

Coosa Board would be an excellent alternative, except for the cost differential... I did use Coosa in all areas where moisture is a problem, especially below deck level.

Plywood that is properly encapsulated with epoxy, skinned with either fiberglass or plastic laminate, and not in a constantly wet environment will last for 30 or more years.

A secondary reason on this boat, is that the engines are 4LY Yanmars and relatively light weight. Plywood being heavier than Coosa helps keep a better overall weight and should improve how the boat rides.

Br,

Patrick

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Nov 3rd, '09, 15:31

Frank,

Here's some images of the cabin door...

coolair · Post by **coolair** » Nov 3rd, '09, 15:46

Capt.
That is marine grade plywood right?? or just regular old stuff from homedepot?

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Nov 3rd, '09, 16:25

coolair wrote:Capt.
That is marine grade plywood right?? or just regular old stuff from homedepot?

Matt,

Not from Home Depot, but yes, regular Georgia Pacific, construction grade, B/C exterior plywood. In laminating the 2 sheets of 1/2" plywood, the two C faces are laminated together, creating a 1" bulkhead with B faces exposed for the Formica lamination.

By laminating the two pieces in this manner it also cancels out any warpage. Lumber yards stack their plywood flat. The manufacturer ships them "best face up". So anytime you buy two pieces of plywood there is always a slight warp toward the lesser face and from end to end.

Marine plywood is no more rot resistent, & uses the same glue as exterior plywood. 1/2" Marine ply has 2 more ply layers, a smaller tollerance for voids, and both faces are A or B quality. All of which is unimportant in the case of the epoxy laminated bulkhead here.

Since both sides are to be painted, and painting directly over wood is not wise, explains the necessity for the hard Formica. Fully enclapsulated and painted, I dare to say that this bulkhead will still be as solid as a rock long after many of us are pushin' up daisies...

So why spend the extra money for marine ply and have no clear advantage? After 30 or 40 years, there might be an advantage of Coosa Board over the B/C exterior ply, not marine over construction grade plywood.

Br,

Patrick

coolair · Post by **coolair** » Nov 4th, '09, 11:11

Thanks for all the info,
Sorry i ask so many questions, and i hijacked the thread,this stuff is really cool to me, and not somethign I know alot about, i was the kid growing up who took my toys apart, and tried to put them back togehter

bertram31.com

Aft window replacements

Aft window replacements

Aft cabin bulkhead windows

Who is online