Modified Hatch covers B28?
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- scenarioL113
- Senior Member
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- Joined: May 31st, '08, 09:00
- Location: Massapequa Park, NY
Modified Hatch covers B28?
Does anyone have any pictures of modified engine hatch covers on a B28?
Thanks
Frank
Thanks
Frank
1971 28 Bertram
4BT Cummins
Frank
9-11-01 NEVER FORGET
4BT Cummins
Frank
9-11-01 NEVER FORGET
-
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Frank:
Meantime ,if you haven't already, search through Yachtwold.com's B28 for sale diesel listings............invariably you will see pics of modified hatches for some B28's gas to diesel repower's..............no doubt folks from here will share first hand pics/details soon enough............
Meantime ,if you haven't already, search through Yachtwold.com's B28 for sale diesel listings............invariably you will see pics of modified hatches for some B28's gas to diesel repower's..............no doubt folks from here will share first hand pics/details soon enough............
Preston Burrows
1976 B28 FBC
BERF1398M76J-285
1976 B28 FBC
BERF1398M76J-285
- scenarioL113
- Senior Member
- Posts: 690
- Joined: May 31st, '08, 09:00
- Location: Massapequa Park, NY
Thanks Preston!
I just spent the last 3 weekends fabricating mounting hardware for my 4BT's. The mounts are overkill but I know these engines shake a lot at idle and low speed.
It was a lot of work, welding, cutting, grinding, drilling etc, etc, etc!
I can now order my shafts and stuffing boxes which are gonna be 1-3/8" and I picked up a used set of 18X20 props to go push her along.
The hatch's will need to be raised about 3 inches, could have been less if I really wanted to cut it close to but I could not put the engines back enough the turbo's would hit the rear bulkhead.
I figure it wont matter anyway, raise it 1 inch or 3 inches would be not much difference in how much work to modify them.
MAYBE if I had the ZF220a trans with 10 degree down angle, I may have got away without mods but not 100% sure, I am using ZF45a's 8 deree down angle.
Thanks!
I just spent the last 3 weekends fabricating mounting hardware for my 4BT's. The mounts are overkill but I know these engines shake a lot at idle and low speed.
It was a lot of work, welding, cutting, grinding, drilling etc, etc, etc!
I can now order my shafts and stuffing boxes which are gonna be 1-3/8" and I picked up a used set of 18X20 props to go push her along.
The hatch's will need to be raised about 3 inches, could have been less if I really wanted to cut it close to but I could not put the engines back enough the turbo's would hit the rear bulkhead.
I figure it wont matter anyway, raise it 1 inch or 3 inches would be not much difference in how much work to modify them.
MAYBE if I had the ZF220a trans with 10 degree down angle, I may have got away without mods but not 100% sure, I am using ZF45a's 8 deree down angle.
Thanks!
1971 28 Bertram
4BT Cummins
Frank
9-11-01 NEVER FORGET
4BT Cummins
Frank
9-11-01 NEVER FORGET
On boat trader
1977 B31 (315 Cummins) Build thread --->https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-ho ... model.html
2010 Key West Bay Reef | 150 Yamaha
1986 Bertram 28 260 Mercruisers [SOLD]
2010 Key West Bay Reef | 150 Yamaha
1986 Bertram 28 260 Mercruisers [SOLD]
- Hyena Love
- Senior Member
- Posts: 309
- Joined: Jun 30th, '06, 09:54
No pics here at the office, but I can tell you how I did it.
I took marine grade plywood, and I simply stacked it on top of the existing step up.
Once you pull the hatches and the center section, you are left with 1.5 inches up front, say 5 to 8 inches down each side, and 3.5 inches across the back at the step up. So, I just built it up.
Screwed the ply together and down to the deck, epoxy soaked everything, and then covered the top with some cloth. Then, built the water channels. Then, installed a filler piece between the bottom of the center section and the top of the step into the cabin. Painted the new areas, and while it does not match perfectly to the gel coat, its close enough for me.
The result, the center section and hatches dropped back in, and now my step up is just a bit higher. Its all one level.
I could not raise just the hatches, as shown in the boat trader pics. I needed my center section raised some too.
I took marine grade plywood, and I simply stacked it on top of the existing step up.
Once you pull the hatches and the center section, you are left with 1.5 inches up front, say 5 to 8 inches down each side, and 3.5 inches across the back at the step up. So, I just built it up.
Screwed the ply together and down to the deck, epoxy soaked everything, and then covered the top with some cloth. Then, built the water channels. Then, installed a filler piece between the bottom of the center section and the top of the step into the cabin. Painted the new areas, and while it does not match perfectly to the gel coat, its close enough for me.
The result, the center section and hatches dropped back in, and now my step up is just a bit higher. Its all one level.
I could not raise just the hatches, as shown in the boat trader pics. I needed my center section raised some too.
I did mine a bit different from Ernest, but the result was the same - I wanted a flat deck without any of those tripping hazzards.
My method:
- Remove all your hatches;
- Take an angle grinder and cut at a 45 degree angle through the cabin bulkhead and the top of your gutter - you will be able to keep all of that gutter intact.
- Run the grinder down the deck midway between the hatches and the gunnel.
- If your existing step in the cockpit is 8", run the cut 4" down and right across so that the line connects with your two cuts running parallel with the gunnel.
- you will now be able to remove your deck in one piece but brace your front gutter as it is hanging lose.
- screw a pressure treated 2x4 to your cabin bulkhead at a height to support your gutter at the new height - this requires some measuring before doing all of the previous cutting so that the height is correct.
- if you are raising your deck 3", make up a piece of 1" plywood that is 11" (deck height 8" plus 3" higher) high and epoxy it to what is left of your cockpit step.
- using joist hangers, hang a pressure treated 2x4 from the 1" plywood at the step to the 2x4 at the cabin bulkhead. This 2x4 would be directly under the outermost gutter of your deck - one for each side. Measurements required before cutting as before.
- you can now put your deck back and it will be fully supported on all 4 sides.
- you have two choices with the step into the cabin. I have seen a spacer put under the existing step which means the second step is higher and that impacts headroom at the hatch. I just cut the step in my hatch, dropped it 4" (I raised my deck 4"), and spliced it back together.
- now all you have to do is fill the gaps on the two sides and pretty things up.
- If you then paint with a non-skid paint like Kiwigrip - it will cover a multitude of sins.
Cliff
My method:
- Remove all your hatches;
- Take an angle grinder and cut at a 45 degree angle through the cabin bulkhead and the top of your gutter - you will be able to keep all of that gutter intact.
- Run the grinder down the deck midway between the hatches and the gunnel.
- If your existing step in the cockpit is 8", run the cut 4" down and right across so that the line connects with your two cuts running parallel with the gunnel.
- you will now be able to remove your deck in one piece but brace your front gutter as it is hanging lose.
- screw a pressure treated 2x4 to your cabin bulkhead at a height to support your gutter at the new height - this requires some measuring before doing all of the previous cutting so that the height is correct.
- if you are raising your deck 3", make up a piece of 1" plywood that is 11" (deck height 8" plus 3" higher) high and epoxy it to what is left of your cockpit step.
- using joist hangers, hang a pressure treated 2x4 from the 1" plywood at the step to the 2x4 at the cabin bulkhead. This 2x4 would be directly under the outermost gutter of your deck - one for each side. Measurements required before cutting as before.
- you can now put your deck back and it will be fully supported on all 4 sides.
- you have two choices with the step into the cabin. I have seen a spacer put under the existing step which means the second step is higher and that impacts headroom at the hatch. I just cut the step in my hatch, dropped it 4" (I raised my deck 4"), and spliced it back together.
- now all you have to do is fill the gaps on the two sides and pretty things up.
- If you then paint with a non-skid paint like Kiwigrip - it will cover a multitude of sins.
Cliff
- scenarioL113
- Senior Member
- Posts: 690
- Joined: May 31st, '08, 09:00
- Location: Massapequa Park, NY
Guys
I really appreciate the input and have read them over a few times. The info is great and a few pics would help a ton.
They are explained very thorough but my comprehension is not matching.
I will have to raise the hatches and the center section as well. I just may have her ready be the fall run.
I really appreciate the input and have read them over a few times. The info is great and a few pics would help a ton.
They are explained very thorough but my comprehension is not matching.
I will have to raise the hatches and the center section as well. I just may have her ready be the fall run.
1971 28 Bertram
4BT Cummins
Frank
9-11-01 NEVER FORGET
4BT Cummins
Frank
9-11-01 NEVER FORGET
- Hyena Love
- Senior Member
- Posts: 309
- Joined: Jun 30th, '06, 09:54
- scenarioL113
- Senior Member
- Posts: 690
- Joined: May 31st, '08, 09:00
- Location: Massapequa Park, NY
- scenarioL113
- Senior Member
- Posts: 690
- Joined: May 31st, '08, 09:00
- Location: Massapequa Park, NY
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