I am getting ready to get my engines mounted and need to fabricate or buy some brackets.
I was wondering if anyone has any ideas on how I should set them up.
This is for a pair of 4BT Cummins in my B28.
I would like to have 4 points of adjustment and was wondering about using brackets that pivot on a piston type of mount for side to side movement with a bolt to lock them off when aligned.
Kind of hard to explain but I figure if anyone recently set up their B-Series they may have a suggestion.
My 4BT's will be paired with Hurth 450a2 down angle trans.
Frank
Ideas on mounting brackets for Cummins
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- scenarioL113
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Ideas on mounting brackets for Cummins
1971 28 Bertram
4BT Cummins
Frank
9-11-01 NEVER FORGET
4BT Cummins
Frank
9-11-01 NEVER FORGET
- scot
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They are all different, and custom per installation. This is an area of the wheel that doesn't need to be re-invented IMHO.
The basic (4) ear / pad mounting brackets + a good set of vibration damping mounting studs is all that's needed. The 4B is really light (like 750lbs esh). The Hurth "should " have mounting holes tapped into the case on each side. In your installation you can mount off the gear and the front holes on the 4B. With heavy engines you have to come off the engine's tail housing, and not the gear.
BTW, keep in mind your "next" set of engines. Look over a few installation drawings of other engine options and try to design/build your stringers, brackets, etc with other engines in mind as well. There is nothing worse than having to re-do EVERYTHING when you want to repower.
My current project is getting a little hot rod DD I'm rebuilding, but the stringers, mounts, etc are designed to accomodate several (more desirable) engines with very little mods. It's easy NOW, not easy later.
This one I did several years back. Brick simple and zero problems. The ears mounted to the TD gear are 3/4 plate, heated and bent + holes. The brackets bolted to the fiberglass stringers are 1/2" aluminum angle. Not as pretty as the pro fab shop mounts...but they worked fine.
The basic (4) ear / pad mounting brackets + a good set of vibration damping mounting studs is all that's needed. The 4B is really light (like 750lbs esh). The Hurth "should " have mounting holes tapped into the case on each side. In your installation you can mount off the gear and the front holes on the 4B. With heavy engines you have to come off the engine's tail housing, and not the gear.
BTW, keep in mind your "next" set of engines. Look over a few installation drawings of other engine options and try to design/build your stringers, brackets, etc with other engines in mind as well. There is nothing worse than having to re-do EVERYTHING when you want to repower.
My current project is getting a little hot rod DD I'm rebuilding, but the stringers, mounts, etc are designed to accomodate several (more desirable) engines with very little mods. It's easy NOW, not easy later.
This one I did several years back. Brick simple and zero problems. The ears mounted to the TD gear are 3/4 plate, heated and bent + holes. The brackets bolted to the fiberglass stringers are 1/2" aluminum angle. Not as pretty as the pro fab shop mounts...but they worked fine.
Scot
1969 Bertram 25 "Roly Poly"
she'll float one of these days.. no really it will :-0
1969 Bertram 25 "Roly Poly"
she'll float one of these days.. no really it will :-0
-
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- Location: Hampton Bays, NY
Frank,
I did a Yanmar installation in my B28 some years ago. While I am not familiar with the 4BT mounting, you will probably have to lower the inboard stringers to facilitate the mounts. While you have the engines out check the condition of both the plywood and the stringer material for rot. An aluminum stringer channel cap will go a long way to eliminate later water intrusion. The outboard mounts were custom to the stringers and I used the manufacturers stock motor mounts. Side-to-side adjustment has not been a problem to date.
Harry
I did a Yanmar installation in my B28 some years ago. While I am not familiar with the 4BT mounting, you will probably have to lower the inboard stringers to facilitate the mounts. While you have the engines out check the condition of both the plywood and the stringer material for rot. An aluminum stringer channel cap will go a long way to eliminate later water intrusion. The outboard mounts were custom to the stringers and I used the manufacturers stock motor mounts. Side-to-side adjustment has not been a problem to date.
Harry
http://www.imperialquality.com/products.html
For prefab stuff try the above link.
I take it you have already set up the stringers for the diesel install.
For prefab stuff try the above link.
I take it you have already set up the stringers for the diesel install.
- scenarioL113
- Senior Member
- Posts: 690
- Joined: May 31st, '08, 09:00
- Location: Massapequa Park, NY
My stringers were redone within the last 10 years and are solid.
What should I do additionally for the diesel installation.
I dont think there is all that much a difference in the weight from the V-8's I had in there considering I lost the velvet drives for the aluminum cased Hurth's. These are 4 cylinder cummins not 6 cylinder.
I am sure the new setup is heavier but I dont think it is more than 150 lbs each side.
I really dont know and may be way off and any input will be appreciated.
What should I do additionally for the diesel installation.
I dont think there is all that much a difference in the weight from the V-8's I had in there considering I lost the velvet drives for the aluminum cased Hurth's. These are 4 cylinder cummins not 6 cylinder.
I am sure the new setup is heavier but I dont think it is more than 150 lbs each side.
I really dont know and may be way off and any input will be appreciated.
1971 28 Bertram
4BT Cummins
Frank
9-11-01 NEVER FORGET
4BT Cummins
Frank
9-11-01 NEVER FORGET
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