Oil it is-(for my teak)--now- what oil/cleaning system?

[CaptDana]

Ok--
I am going with teak oil for the teak gunnel cap( I have my first little one due in less than a month-its going to be a boy :) ---the teak oil will simplify the maint. on the boat while my life takes a new turn)
I will sand the cap down--is 120 grit ok?
What teak oil should I go with and what cleaner should I use in the future?

Since I am starting fresh--I want to do it right. I am looking for the best system for the $$ or I am willing to spend more $$ to get longer lasting results.
Thanks

[Buju]

Dana,
First off, big congrats on your soon to be fatherhood. Changes everything... I'm hanging with my 20mo. old daughter as I type this.

I think you'll be glad you choose the oil route.
The first step though is to remove all that Sikkens Cetol.
You can either do it with chem. strippers, or abrasives. Or a combination of the two.

I will sand the cap down--is 120 grit ok?

No, it won't be sufficient to remove the old finish. Depending on your sander (finish, RO, DA,etc) you'll probably want to start out with either 36grit or 60grit to remove the Cetol. Once the finish is gone, then go over it with 80, then 120 grit to smooth it all out.
The last time I did this was on a 48' Pacemaker that had really thick buildup on the coverboards. I choose to remove it using my Milwaukee 7" grinder with a foam pad and Mirka 80grit discs. It worked out great, but wouldn't recommend it unless you're real comfortable with your 7' grinder.( there was a thread on the topic that I posted here, back in November, I think it was titled "Removing heavy build from teak boards" or something along those lines )
As the teak oil goes... I've been using a lot of Amazons Golden Teak Oil.
Many guys swear by Tip Top Teak, which I understand is avialable again.

It is also beneficial to add about 10 to 20% boiled linseed oil to your teak oil. This adds longevity, but if you add too much (>20%), it'll leave a dried film on the surface of your teak, which is exactly what we're trying to avoid.

For standard cleaning and periodic brightening and reoiling, Capt. Pat's ammonia/water/dish soap solution is the ticket.

2 part Teak cleaners...These should only be used once your oil is gone, and the teak is beginning to gray out. They'll resurface the wood & get rid of most any stains and soil accumulation, opening up the grain to accept new oil, once the wood dries. I've had good results with Snappy Teak-Nu and TE-KA cleaners.

[CaptDana]

What is the ratio of Capt Pat's cleaning solution for teak

Amonia soap water? %

Thanks for the great info on the oil and sanding
Dana

[CaptPatrick]

Dana,

1 tablespoon of Wisk or other concentrated laundry soap to 2 quarts of sudsy amonia. Apply to pre-wetted teak, keep working it around and the teak wet with the solution for 3-5 minutes. Rinse very well with fresh water. Allow the teak to lighten naturally under sun light. If you do use an acid brightner, cut it 1:1 with water and add only to pre-wetted teak. Only use fine, flat scrub pads or very soft brushes. Never use a medium or stiff bristle brush.

Br,

Patrick

[Dug]

I am a fan of Tip Top. This past year while it was not available I used the interlux with good success.

I like them both pretty well.

Key is to keep it clean, wash off after every use. Cover if possible when not using. And re-apply every couple of weeks.

Dug

[bob lico]

capt patrick`s method is what i do but then you have to go with the teak wizard " waterk" he uses bleach after the ammonia step.i use tip top oil and fine it to be the best.i make all applications with a common sponge. god forbid nothing abrasive goes near those covering boards.

[bob lico]

buji those double miters on the outside courners were copied from a rybo and were the most differcult woodwork i ever did. the hawse pipe looks so much better with a miter on each side then the easy way with one
miter at 45 degrees.the entire lenth of the covering boards had to be built up to cover that raised fiberglass lip on a stock bertram.i placed the teak covering boards in wet thicken epoxy and then put stainless screw and washers from below gunnels. the covering boards cover the entire gunnel like the big boys.very very happy with results .the abosolute best for big game fishing.no big deal to clean every year and no big deal to wash down while fishing .in general i keep the blood off while fishing one squirt with the wash down-----done.