Painting Window frames

[Spike Hunter]

Guys,

I need some advice about painting the exterior window frames. I know that they are aluminum window frames. I would like to paint them black. I was wondering if you guys have recommendations about the type of primer and paint to use.

Also what is the best way to apply the paint.

Do you recommend painting the frames? I am mainly doing this for cosmetic looks. I have blacked out the windows and now the frames stick out. They are not in the best shape, so I would like to paint them black to make them less eye catching.

I appreciate your advice and opinions.

Thanks,

[luis]

Using Cap.Pat words here you have -
To most sucessfully paint aluminum, it must first be thoroughly abraded with nothing finer than 180 grit. Absolutely no bright spots left behind...

After sanding, the aluminum must be thoroughly cleaned, rinsed, and treated with an acid solution such as AlumaPrep, according to product directions. After rinsing the acid off, immediately treat with Alodine. Alodine is also an acid, but additional chemistry causes a microscopic protective film over the aluminum.

After the alodine treatment has been rinsed & dried, the metal is ready to accept paint.

Awlgrip primers are true epoxies, so there's no advantage to epoxy coating the metal with standard epoxy. Several coats of Awlgrip 545 primer can be built up & then sanded, being careful not to sand down to metal. Use 220 grit here. Virtually any solvent based paint can then be used as a top coat.

If everything is done correctly, and a little luck is thrown in, you can expect about 3 - 4 years before an oxidation spot pops up and the process begins again. I have seen painted aluminum stand up to over 10 years without any sign of blistering.

Regards

[Buju]

Yeah, thats the drill Spikehunter.

1) physically abrade
2) acid etch
3) wash primer
4) epoxy primer
5) topcoat(s)

Many get into it thinking it'll be a quick project because of the relativley small surface area of the substrate.
But aluminum is one substrate that is absolutley necessary to follow the prep to a "t", if your looking for any kind of longevity that is.

[Carl]

I have done a few parts that way, labor intensive and looks great for a couple years then it starts all over again.

Rub rail was an area I was going to try that way, but I realized it wasn't going to last and did not have the time to redo the rubrail correctly so I decided to give a good once over with sand paper then hit quick with a can of primer and Krylon. Lasts about two years, then a quick sand, touch up a few spots and recoat with Krylon and good for another two years. Its truly a quick fix, but it lasts a little while till the next time where I debate about redoing the rail correctly.

[scooter28]

Has anyone tried powdercoating the frames? Luckily I have access to the acid etch and alodine tanks big enough for doing the entire frames. I'm curious though if while i'm at it I should just powder coat them also. Don't know if the looks will hold up as long as awlgrip. I think it should exceed it but thats just my thoughts. lol

[CaptPatrick]

Actually the powder coating could even be better than Awlgrip, due to increased application coverage. Again, extereme prep is the key. The side window frames on "Buddy Boy" were powder coated at the factory, (American Marine units), but they didn't follow my prep instructions, (acid wash & alodine), and as a result, I noticed a small spot blister only 6 or seven months later. Aluminium is just a crapy metal to coat by any means...

[Raybo Marine NY]

im a huge fan of stainless steel frames, with all the coin some of these guys lay out for big dollar restorations im surprised no one has had it done that way.

[CaptPatrick]

I'm a huge fan of no metal frames. Fiberglass reviels, fixed panes of window glass, no high tech fabrication process, and be done with it. 'Course that's for boats in the project & pre-paint stages for the most part...

[Mikey]

Spike,
Since all of my frames had to come out anyway and I had a guy who did powder coating on boats and motorcycles as a favor in his huge operations for the furniture industry I had him do my frames. The sides were new from American Marine, the fronts were original. They are now five years old and look great. I used a "hammered finish" which is a combination of black and silver which at a distance read black and up close hides the fact that the original frames were not perfect. Great choice in my estimation.

[Raybo Marine NY]

I would agree no frames is nice and clean, but the no frame option is definitly more of a complete rip out type job then a resto-mod.