Rust, Rust Rust

[Skipper Dick]

I was out sitting on the dock this afternoon after the rain and got to looking at my lift to see how the rust has been progressing. It looks like I had better get on the stick and do some re-painting.

I was thinking of using some naval jelly to help get a start on removing some of it and then the old wire brush trick to get everything cleaned up. Then a couple of coats of marine gray enamal and it should last a few more years.

Has anyone had any luck removing heavy rust by using something different?

The crossbeams aren't exacty something I can remove quickly and lay them out on the dock to work on with easy access. I'll have to lay a sheet of plywood on to use as a work platform while she is up in the air then hope I don't get butter fingers and start dropping things into the canal.

Dick

[CaptPatrick]

Dick,

The first tool is your wire brush and maybe a stiff scraper. Bust off all the heavy scale and then proceed.

My favorite is Ospho. Actually it's the same chemistry as naval jelly, only in straight liquid form. Brush on, keep it wet for several minutes, and then let it dry for several hours. The phosphoric acid causes a molecular conversion from active red iron oxide to inactive black iron oxide. Allowing the Ospho to dry thouroughly, without rinsing, leaves a film that is readily painted without further priming.

The hands down best rattle can rust protection paint is Hammerite Rust Cap. You should be able to find it at a good hardware store like ACE Hardware.

Br,

Patrick

[Ken Hudson]

Dick,

Use a Scotch-Brite Clean & Strip disc. 3M part no. is 07466 if you can use a Roloc in something like a 4" pneumatic grinder or 03171 if you want to use a drill. When the rust has been removed spray or brush OSPHO onto the bare metal only (it takes forever to dry on paint) and let it dry overnight. OSPHO will convert any rust that is left into an oxide. Then use your primer of choice. I like a single part self etching primer that comes in a spray can. Then top coat.

Ken

[Skipper Dick]

Gentlemen,
Thanks for the helpful advice. As soon as this little cold spell is outa here, I'm on it.

Dick

[Rawleigh]

Dick: Hands down the best products for rust control come from POR15. POR stands for paint over rust. I have used their products on heavy equipment and can recommend them without reservation. Be sure to follow the direction to the letter. You only have to remove the scaley rust for this to work. You will nedd to wash with Marine Clean (which is the best cleaner I have come across) and then spray with metalready, which is somewhat like OSPHO. You will need at least two, preferably three coats, brushed or sprayed. If you want it to look cosmetically appealing you will need to topcoat it as it changes color when exposed to UV rays. It doesn't breakdown, but it does get a strange looking light brown cast to it. You have to sand it to topcoat it after it weathers. If you topcoat within the recoat window it will bond with the primer. Their two part topcoat is good also. I painted my engine compartment white with it.

http://www.por15.com/POR-15/productinfo/1GB/

[mike ohlstein]

I use POR15 to hold my 1985 Mercedes 300D together.

297,000 miles and counting.

[PaulJ]

Rawleigh,
I am currently doing some work on metal parts and using OSPHO... I've had good experiences with it in the past. However, I learned about the POR-15 a few weeks ago and have some questions... Can you use POR-15 on high-temp parts like the exhaust manifolds? I read their website and couldn't see if the POR-15 rust preventative coating can be applied on the exhaust manifolds prior to top-coating with the high-temp paint. Do you know if this can be done?

My exhaust manifolds are currently at the machine shop getting media blasted and I want to paint them soon.

Paul J.

[MarkD]

I use POR15 to hold my 1985 Mercedes 300D together.

297,000 miles and counting.
_________________
Mike
Mean Team Leader
PREDATOR

Mike: You own anything that doesn't run on deisel? :)

[mike ohlstein]

I have a Honda snow blower that runs on gas......

[Whaler1777]

http://www.por15.com/High-Temperature-P ... roducts/8/

Theres the link for the high heat paints, excellent product.... I used some of the regular Por-15 on my old Mercedes 380sl left it without a topcoat exposed to sunlight and the rust started to come back, just make sure you put the topcoat on it if there will be exposure to sunlight, re-did it with a top coat, lasted 3 years until I sold the car...
-John

[Rawleigh]

Paul: What Whaler said! I used the black high temp on the adapter donuts between the manifolds and the copper Y pipe on the 440's in my B31, and it is holding up nicely. You do NOT put POR15 primer on first. It goes over sandblasted metal.

[PaulJ]

I contacted the POR-15 tech guy. He said same thing... High Temp "Black Velvet" good to 1200 deg but must be painted directly on sand-blasted metal. He said POR-15 is good up to 500 deg but cannot be used as base coast prior to applying high temp... high temp paint must be directly applied to clean metal.

I think I'm going to use the POR-15 on all non-engine parts like mounting brackets and other metal parts that are not subject to high temp. Plan on using POR-15 on my transmissions. I'll use the Black Velvet on my exhaust and intake manifolds.

Have a friend in the corvette restoration hobby... has 3 in work in his garage. He swears by the stuff.

PaulJ

[Rawleigh]

I did my transmissions with it too! A couple of coats and they look like they have a shiny coat of plastic on them! If you topcoat while it is still tacky, the topcoat will chemically bond with the POR15.